Necronomicon Posted February 20, 2003 Posted February 20, 2003 Still looking for good pics. Anyone? Quote
fleblebleb Posted February 20, 2003 Posted February 20, 2003 Alrighty, the curiosity is killing me now. Anybody have any picture at all of the north face of Triumph, whatever the time? Gotstaseeittnow! Quote
j_b Posted February 20, 2003 Posted February 20, 2003 not a very good pic but I don't I have any better than this. I have seen it a lot more plastered. Quote
wayne Posted February 25, 2003 Posted February 25, 2003 OMG!! Lets see who gets the fwa of that! I wonder if the 5.10d crux can be aid climbed. I plan to see this SUMMER!! Quote
Lowell_Skoog Posted February 25, 2003 Posted February 25, 2003 I have a slide of the N face of Triumph taken in 1986 during a winter ascent of Mt Despair. However, I don't have a slide scanner. So, that probably doesn't help you much. Quote
Necronomicon Posted February 25, 2003 Author Posted February 25, 2003 I took a look at Nelson's CAS2 last night, the pic of Triumph in winter looks pretty grim. What's the easiest way off the mountain? Has anyone here done the Central Rib on the N Face in summer? I seem to remember the crux being down low... Quote
Dru Posted February 25, 2003 Posted February 25, 2003 shouldnt that be " i wonder if the 10d crux can be MIXED climbed" Quote
Mike Posted February 25, 2003 Posted February 25, 2003 I did the NE ridge last summer and it was an easy descent - combination of rappeling the moderate stuff and scrambling the easy stuff (there's nothing hard). It was exposed in places, usually at the rappels. And the easy stuff was broad ridge crests with almost zero exposure. Of course that was all on dry rock (and moss and shrubbery). I've heard that the scramble route thoroughly sucks, but somebody else who's done it will have to provide details. Quote
slothrop Posted March 3, 2003 Posted March 3, 2003 Maybe the SE ridge would be an easier descent route in the winter. Nelson's picture makes the NE ridge look like Alaska hardman shit, but at least your partner could jump off the other side if you fell. I betcha Colin does the FWA of the north face. Quote
klenke Posted March 3, 2003 Posted March 3, 2003 Not a real close shot, but the North Face of Triumph is visible in the far right side of this picture: http://sverdina.com/images/ruth1/pict0171.jpg (picture taken February 10, 2003 from the summit of Ruth Mountain to the NW). Quote
cracked Posted March 15, 2003 Posted March 15, 2003 Damn, that looks steep. Is the face typically ice, or does snow still stick to 75 degree faces? Quote
j_b Posted March 16, 2003 Posted March 16, 2003 cracked said: Damn, that looks steep. Is the face typically ice, or does snow still stick to 75 degree faces? these pics were taken a few days after a coldish storm. You'd think that for it to stick at such a steep angle it has to be rimed or very cohesive snow (wind transported, wet then cold, etc). Could it be ice occasionally (long period of dry weather? warm wet storm then cold snap?). Quote
Necronomicon Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff. Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think. Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections. Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh. Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Necronomicon said: Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff. Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think. Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections. Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh. so what are you waiting for, twight as rope gun? Quote
Necronomicon Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 Dru said: Necronomicon said: Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff. Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think. Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections. Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh. so what are you waiting for, twight as rope gun? I'm leaving right now, look for my TR this afternoon. Quote
Necronomicon Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 Dru said: txt msg fm avlnch dbrs Quote
j_b Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 it's as steep as it looks in the profile photo (duh) which I think would pretty much rule out the north rib. Apart from the first steep pitch (aid-able, i think), the rib is sustained ~75 deg and slabby (~5,7). You'd need pretty special snow condition, which you are more likely to find in the gullies (avy compacted)? Quote
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 afternoon is almost up.. wheres necro's tr?? should we call SAR?? Quote
Necronomicon Posted March 18, 2003 Author Posted March 18, 2003 There seems to be a pair of ice runnels right of the rib. I can almost get my face close enough to the monitor screen to see if the third pitch on the second runnel is really WI5+. I'm sticking with the V 5.11a WI5 A3 rating. Quote
Off_White Posted March 18, 2003 Posted March 18, 2003 You're just like Mike Strassman who once put out a guidebook to an area on Mt Lemmon that included names and grades for routes that hadn't even been tried yet. Quote
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