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Necronomicon

North Face Triumph in Winter

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Alrighty, the curiosity is killing me now. Anybody have any picture at all of the north face of Triumph, whatever the time? Gotstaseeittnow! grin.gif

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not a very good pic but I don't I have any better than this. I have seen it a lot more plastered.

 

2447triumph.jpg

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OMG!! Lets see who gets the fwa of that! I wonder if the 5.10d crux can be aid climbed. I plan to see this SUMMER!! fruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

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I have a slide of the N face of Triumph taken in 1986 during a winter ascent of Mt Despair. However, I don't have a slide scanner. So, that probably doesn't help you much.

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I took a look at Nelson's CAS2 last night, the pic of Triumph in winter looks pretty grim. What's the easiest way off the mountain? Has anyone here done the Central Rib on the N Face in summer? I seem to remember the crux being down low...

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I did the NE ridge last summer and it was an easy descent - combination of rappeling the moderate stuff and scrambling the easy stuff (there's nothing hard). It was exposed in places, usually at the rappels. And the easy stuff was broad ridge crests with almost zero exposure. Of course that was all on dry rock (and moss and shrubbery).

 

I've heard that the scramble route thoroughly sucks, but somebody else who's done it will have to provide details.

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Maybe the SE ridge would be an easier descent route in the winter. Nelson's picture makes the NE ridge look like Alaska hardman shit, but at least your partner could jump off the other side if you fell. I betcha Colin does the FWA of the north face.

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Damn, that looks steep. Is the face typically ice, or does snow still stick to 75 degree faces?

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cracked said:

Damn, that looks steep. Is the face typically ice, or does snow still stick to 75 degree faces?

 

these pics were taken a few days after a coldish storm. You'd think that for it to stick at such a steep angle it has to be rimed or very cohesive snow (wind transported, wet then cold, etc). Could it be ice occasionally (long period of dry weather? warm wet storm then cold snap?).

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Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff.

 

Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think.

 

Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections.

 

Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh.

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Necronomicon said:

Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff.

 

Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think.

 

Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections.

 

Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh.

 

so what are you waiting for, twight as rope gun?

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Dru said:

Necronomicon said:

Thanks for the pics! Nice stuff.

 

Looks burly, but not as steep as it looks, I would think.

 

Following the rib would keep you safe until the last pitches, but it may not be the best (easiest) way, under ideal conditions. Looks really challenging, scary knife-edge shit, exposed with shitty pro, aid through the steep sections.

 

Hard snow and ice up avi paths, through cliff bands would make for faster climbing under ideal conditions. me thinketh.

 

so what are you waiting for, twight as rope gun?

 

I'm leaving right now, look for my TR this afternoon.

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it's as steep as it looks in the profile photo (duh) which I think would pretty much rule out the north rib. Apart from the first steep pitch (aid-able, i think), the rib is sustained ~75 deg and slabby (~5,7). You'd need pretty special snow condition, which you are more likely to find in the gullies (avy compacted)?

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afternoon is almost up..

 

wheres necro's tr??

 

should we call SAR??

 

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There seems to be a pair of ice runnels right of the rib. I can almost get my face close enough to the monitor screen to see if the third pitch on the second runnel is really WI5+. I'm sticking with the V 5.11a WI5 A3 rating.

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yellaf.gifyellaf.gif You're just like Mike Strassman who once put out a guidebook to an area on Mt Lemmon that included names and grades for routes that hadn't even been tried yet.

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