first ascent [TR] Johannesburg - “Flight of the Bumblebee” FA of the sit start to the NE Buttress of J Berg TD 5.9+R 1500’ 08/27/2022

[Sam Boyce]

Trip: Johannesburg - “Flight of the Bumblebee” FA of the sit start to the NE Buttress of J Berg TD 5.9+R 1500’

Trip Date: 08/27/2022

Trip Report:

 

This weekend, Kyle and I climbed the sit start to the NE buttress of J-Berg. We ended up rappelling due to injury after linking into the ‘57 route on the NE buttress. We added about 1500’ of steep and challenging climbing. The sit start climbs a tower with a bit of a distinct summit, so I don’t feel too bad claiming an FA. Becky likely wouldn’t have given us credit for anything, so judge it how you will. If linked to the summit, it would likely be one of the biggest monolithic climbs anywhere. TD+… ED…? Only one way to find out. This is likely a one and done for me, when we topped out the lower buttress I thought to myself “the climb we did so no one else had to”, but rapping where we did leaves the door open for at least one suitor to up the ante. 
 

 

The lower buttress in moody, morning fog

We had a late start sat morning. The uncertain weather had us sleeping in and waiting. Lani and I had attempted the line a couple years ago and ultimately bailed because the climbing looked like it was going to be far more time consuming than our 2 day itinerary would have allowed. This time around, kyle and I packed a couple taco portaledges in case we had to bivy on the steeper lower wall. The approach involves a good bit of blueberry and devils club laybacking in high exposure. We came prepared this time and had leather garden gloves to grab the clubs…

Kyle on the approach

The approach is a bit of foreshadowing for what to expect on the rest of the buttress, but simply steeper… The first pitch was a long moss gully with difficulties that felt about like 5.7. For the second pitch, we discovered a sick splitter hand crack. Too short and too easy…

Starting up the second pitch

The third pitch was ledgy and mossy hand crack steps that fed into the main gully/corner that defines the route. This was the previous high point. 

starting up the third pitch

The fourth pitch is what intimidated Lani and I off the route before. Steep, mossy overlapping roofs and steep corners loom above. This time around we were prepared to aid if needed and had a good bit of iron and a real hammer. We didn’t end up using the ladders and battled the moss with a nut tool and clawed our way up the slightly overhanging corner past a roof to a sloping ledge. We decided to start hauling the leaders pack at this point and ended up needing to tag the iron up for this belay. 

Kyle on the traverse above the P4 roof

pitch 5 was more of the same, but with a chimney. Pulling through the chimney made me happy about the decision to haul packs. I ended up climbing a steep crack on the face to diverge from the main corner. To make faster upward progress, Kyle ended up climbing the thorn bush corner. He ended up unintentionally releasing about a ton of gravel when he stepped in the wrong spot. That reinforced the decision to take the spicy looking face. We ended up setting up a bivy at the top of this pitch. Glad to have the tacos as it was completely hanging. 

heading into the chimney on P5

kyle following the choss corner at the end of P5

chilling at the bivy in a super taco

looking up at the upper corner from the bivy

The next few pitches were actually pretty fun. Steep face and corner climbing on surprisingly solid rock. 

starting up P7. 5.7R up to the roof. 

kyle following the roof at the top of P7

The 8th pitch was the start to the sting in the tail. We climbed a runout face to the right of the corner. This took us up to the edge of the wall. The wall pinched off to a blunt, knife edge arete. A 5.8 downclimbing traverse into a rock scar was probably the most dangerous point on the climb. The last piece was maybe about 60 ft away and around the arete. A fall would likely chop the rope along the arete. Strong R. The rock scar was overhanging 5.9 stemming on less than ideal rock but with good gear. 

climbing up near the arete on pitch 8

kyle finishing up pitch 8

Once on the prow of the wall we had a few options. None of them looked good. The chimneys above looked truly awful, so we opted to traverse the arete to the right and found a mossy ramp that took us out onto the NW face. I belayed short for communication and to help make decisions. The next pitch was bleak, dead vertical terrain everywhere and so much munge. We ended up making a huge S shaped traversing pitch to work our way up moss covered 5.8 sketch blocks. We named this pitch “Phil’s Traverse” as we were intending on calling the route “the land of confusion”. The sting in the tail continues…

kyle following the zag on Phil’s Traverse

A long pitch of overhanging 5.7 tree climbing spat us out on a decent ledge where we transitioned out of rock shoes to prepare for the Forrest. I was nearing the end of the rope on a classic J-Berg tree pitch and grabbed a tuft of moss, as you do. This particular tuft was a bees nest. I felt stinging and saw a few on my right hand and about 100 bees shot out of the hole, dead set on face fucking me off the mountain. I let go in a knee jerk reaction and went for a slow motion, sports action highlight style whipper. I kind of wish I had a video camera on as it had to have been funny to watch. I ended up grabbing, and swinging off a tree on the way down, making a single rotation tomahawk and falling onto my feet as the rope caught me. Glad I took a lead belay. I ended up rolling my ankle and was otherwise unscathed. I belayed Kyle up and we weighed our options. We decided to find a place to bivy and wait until the morning to make any decisions. We ended up climbing up another 300’ of forest munge to the top of a heather slope. The top of the slope was a comfy knoll that marked the summit of the lower tower, and an awesome bivy! This was our summit and the first point where it was obvious we had linked into the ‘57 line. 

kyle rapping a steep section of the wall

Waking up, my outlook was pretty grim. I could barely hobble around, so we decided to descend our route. I couldn’t really put weight on my ankle so I ended up glissading the last 100’ of 35 degree heather. Once back at the tree line we began rapping. We ended up rappelling about 1800’. Primarily rapping on trees and using an escaper we were able to get away with only leaving a couple gear anchors along the way. Traversing the talus back to the car was kind of miserable, but manageable. My ankle is starting to feel better already, crossing my fingers for a minor sprain. 
 

For the aspiring munge warrior, here’s pitch notes

P1 5.7 180’ head up moss gully on the left to a big ledge with trees. 

P2 5.7+ 180’ traverse to left edge of ledge. Head up good hand crack. Traverse slab to the right and climb a nice finger crack up to a large ledge on the ridge crest. 

P3 5.8 150’ head up into the large mossy corner. Climb up to a distinct roof with hands to fists gear for anchor. 

P4 5.9 100’ continue up the corner. Mossy crack climbing leads to a rightward roof traverse. Pull past the roof onto the large sloping ledge. Two beaks in place for anchor 

P5 5.9 100’ continue up main corner on clean slab. Past a short chimney and a crack on the right face (5.9+). Belay at uncomfortable stance below a striped roof in a good crack in the main corner. 

P6 5.9+ 85’ continue up main corner past a small roof (crux) to an alcove at the base of the massive looming roof above. #4 critical for belay. 

P7 5.9+ 70’ climb the face to the right of the corner (5.7R). Up past an off width section to a section of steep crack/stemming on good rock. Belay in a cave. 

P8 5.9+ 160’ traverse out of the cave. Climb the face on the right up to a knife edge arete (5.8R). Traverse the slab rightward into a steep rock star (5.9+ spicy). Continue up past low angle broken terrain. Belay by a bush on a small ledge. 

P9 5.7 60’ head up and around the arete to the right. Traverse over on mossy ledges and build an anchor

P10 5.8R 100’ “Phil’s traverse” traverse right. Up mossy blocks to trees. Traverse back left to a big tree for a belay. Heinous drag. 

P11 5.7 150’ climb the belay tree. Then continue up until rope drag stops you. 

P12 5.6 200’ trees up to the ridge crest to join ne butt route.

 

Gear Notes:
Double Rack .2 - 1 Singles 2 - 4 no nuts placed. Pins in place.

Approach Notes:
Park at cascade pass. Traverse talus to the base of the “munge cone”. Traverse to the right up steep ferns. Gain a steep ramp that cuts up and left on 4th class devils clubs. Mandatory devils club laybacking. We brought leather gloves for this. Traverse the ledge to an exposed perch by a steep gully.

Edited August 30, 2022 by Sam Boyce

[olyclimber]

damn.  that is a worthy route name! 

[JasonG]

Oh man.....that sounds and looks like a terrifying adventure. 

To willingly go up into that insanity is a display of impressive choss jedi skillz!

[Juan Sharp]

Good grief.  What an effort and the best route name ever.  Your piano teacher would be proud.  Any chance you'll post a photo with your line marked?   

[Sam Boyce]

24 minutes ago, Juan Sharp said:

Good grief.  What an effort and the best route name ever.  Your piano teacher would be proud.  Any chance you'll post a photo with your line marked?   

Yellow is approach. Red is our line to the top of the tower. 

[Kposaune]

Not sure Sam mentioned it, but this was likely the first line Sam ever looked at that had not been already climbed. He seemed very eager to send it grabbing the rack at the base, so I facilitated in carrying all I could handle to make it easier.

The route is definitely one of those “good that we did it, so no one else has to wonder” routes. The line follows an obvious drainage for 90% of the route. Per usual I ripped off what Sam didn’t. On the pitch I released the 1/2 ton pile on accident, Sam debated climbing that corner and chose not to. I was getting into position to release the choss and stood on an obvious loose block to the side when pretty much the whole pile slid out from under me. I was aware it might happen and was not really surprised by it. 90% chance would have died if he led through there. 
 

I find it interesting that we talk a lot about choss and the possibility of dying, but the route is infinitely safer now. There is an art and skill to navigating new routes like this, and following some of those leads was probably just as dangerous pre/post cleaning.
 

I’m not sure what is wrong with us. I followed the route in worn out approach shoes with the pack on and all the extraneous metal/shoes. Leader/follower need to be confident/competent, gumbies are gonna have a really bad time. Probably should have put climbing shoes on. 

 

There is actually a decent amount of nifty and wild climbing on this route to reward you for your patience. Awesome incut perfectly spaced holds, and one section with a full-on 5.9 horizontal layback off a big horn. Tacos were necessary for the FA, I suppose you could blast from the top of the tree-cone to the top in a day of 10 pitches, bivying on heather then continuing to the summit the next day. 

[Sam Boyce]

1 hour ago, JasonG said:

Oh man.....that sounds and looks like a terrifying adventure. 

To willingly go up into that insanity is a display of impressive choss jedi skillz!

A high level of tolerance and stupidity mixed in with a short term memory are staples for the cascades climber. 

[Michael Telstad]

That just looks horrible. Good job taming the moss and saving us all from having to go take a look. 

[Juan Sharp]

Thanks for posting the line.  Can't wait to learn who attempts the second ascent and whether they climb it in full beekeeper's garb.

[JasonG]

Inquiring minds want to know @Sam Boyce and @Kposaune....did you find the grape soda can @pms may have "forgotten" on the mountain?

Legend has it that @Juan Sharp will pay handsomely for it.  You covered ground that hasn't been searched yet!

[Juan Sharp]

Is “forgotten” a synonym for “flung over shoulder”?

[Sam Boyce]

48 minutes ago, JasonG said:

Inquiring minds want to know @Sam Boyce and @Kposaune....did you find the grape soda can @pms may have "forgotten" on the mountain?

Legend has it that @Juan Sharp will pay handsomely for it.  You covered ground that hasn't been searched yet!

Didn’t see anything. I did the ‘51 route back in 2019 with my friend Parker. We found half of a carbon black prophet (the head half) that had been there for many years… always wondered who’s it was. I think Parker still has it. 

[JasonG]

7 hours ago, Juan Sharp said:

Is “forgotten” a synonym for “flung over shoulder”?

In this particular case, maaaaaaaaaaybe?

[JasonG]

6 hours ago, Sam Boyce said:

We found half of a carbon black prophet (the head half) that had been there for many years

Sounds like a tale, hopefully somebody chimes in!  There really aren't that many ascents over the years of that buttress.  I would think someone on here would know the owner of that head.

[Juan Sharp]

Which variation of the NE Rib is more popular - '57 or '51?

[Sam Boyce]

11 hours ago, Juan Sharp said:

Which variation of the NE Rib is more popular - '57 or '51?

My best guess is the 51 route because of steph abeggs beta…

[robertm]

57 is probably more popular since that is in Jim's book?

[Juan Sharp]

When Jim proposed the NE Rib late one night at the bar at Ballard's Hattie's Hat (for inclusion in his Vol. II, then in progress), I don't recall discussion of '57 vs. '51.  I do recall that he had beta from Rowland Tabor to the effect that Rowland and party summited by noon or early afternoon on their FA in '57.  I was drunk enough to sign on for the trip but the third guy wisely said nope.  We later lured Bob Davis to join and ultimately proved that Rowland et al. were the better men.  I still have fond memories of snuggling with Big Jim at our unplanned shiver bivi.  =;-)

[pms]

How do you even remember this shit John? Was there a band?

[Juan Sharp]

We saw a band at the Tractor that night but I can't recall the name.  Would recognize it if I heard it, though.

[olyclimber]

Was it Leonard Skinard?

[dberdinka]

Looks like a nice climb.  If you invested a couple days cleaning out the munge and adding decent anchors you might have a nice moderate classic on your hands.  
 

nice to see all the old timers coming out to comment.

[Juan Sharp]

Yeah, Jim is really old.  So old, in fact, that he knows to hold his lighter high in the air during "Free Bird."

[dberdinka]

Juan I was pretty much referring to everyone but Sam and Kyle.  Who do see when you look in the mirror?

the use of Tacos and spending a couple days up there is a pretty cool level of commitment to a new jungly line.  Was there water on route?  I assume not, so how much did you bring for 3 days?  Seems like that follower pack would have been heavy!?

Edit to add the Moljinar is a nice touch.   Nothing in 40 years has improved on the utility of an old school north wall hammer for Cascade FAs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 1, 2022 by dberdinka

[Juan Sharp]

Darin, when I look in the mirror I see a valued customer of LensCrafters. =;-)