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Thin red beta


dirtwigle

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Watch that first pitch. I remember it being difficult route finding and sandbagged. Becky's says it's 5.8 but I felt like it was 5.9. That's as far as I've gotten on it for a variety of reasons, one being a partner that fell on the first pitch and broke his ankle. The only thing that kept him from groundfall was a #2 TCU.

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I've done TRL with a partner, it's a good route, like 9+ C2. Like mentioned above I think it would be a bit of a pain to solo as there is a lot of free climbing, the first pitch and then everything after M+M Ledge. Also if you are a fast solo climber it may not be too big a deal, but if you're planning on hauling I think it would be a huge pain, the uppper section would be terrible to haul especially without a partner to constantly kick the pig free. Have fun though, the middle aid pitches are super.

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Steve House bolted a new line in between TRL and LC and it is a nice alternative to the first pitch of TRL. You still need a couple of pieces down low but then its bolted all the way. It goes at about 10+ and is super fun climbing. At the first anchor you can traverse right about 10 feet to the start of the second pitch of TRL. A much better start!!

 

dale

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The variatioon to the left is nice.

 

Also if you intend to haul more than you can carry when you get to the low angle stuff at the top, I would seriously consider tossing the pig and retrieving it after you get to M&M. My memory is that you should be able to look below you and see if anyone would be endangered. I can't remember any ledges that I would worry about the pig holding up on.

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Go light! Why haul at all? What do all do you need? Water, some food, some storm gear, light jacket, hat, head lamp, batteries, duct tape, first aid kit, and a few other misc. things. Forget the sleeping bag, boom box, 6 changes of underware and all the heavy crap you would take on a longer route in the valley. It is only one night out. By the time you hit the slabby stuff you will have less than half the food and water you started with and your bag will be very light. Although this is assuming a summer climb. If you are jumping on it as soon as the road clears you may want to try a little different approach. If you do toss the bag you still have to go retreave it. If it is still there when you get down it may not be in one piece and I don't even want to think about clobbering someone. I'll pass on the air mail.

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