dalius Posted May 23, 2003 Posted May 23, 2003 Dru said: dalius said: OK, call me crazy, but it looks to me that this placement would just rip right the hell out. It's off of WildCountry's site. Am I wrong? Zero Cam is specially designed to flex all the way to the head. That placement would hold. Any other microcam placed that way would RIP! Whatever, I don't believe it. Somebody please explain to me how a placement like that could possibly hold. Has anyone ever actually placed one like this or is this just all book theory for everyone 'cuz nobody's actually gone out and tried it? Quote
Dru Posted May 23, 2003 Posted May 23, 2003 I bounced on one inserted into the rock wall at climb-On!!! They rilly do hold a force at 90 degrees to the head. Cable flexes right downm to the cams minimizing leverage On a Alien the shaft flexes to like 1cm, from the cams then its solid, hence creating leverage On a TCU the whole thing flexes minimally creating more leverage. I see the ZeroCam as an Alien with no bad side But for the thin, vert cracks TCU, or DMM 3CU probably just as good and cheaper I just dont like aliens cause I think they get stuck easier, are harder to clean and get trashed faster. Quote
erik Posted May 23, 2003 Posted May 23, 2003 aliens blow i was just talking to my friend on the phone and he blew a yellow one yesterday on gripper. aliens are not superior they just apply better in certain applications. zero cams appear to be excellent aid pieces. i would never trust my life one cam over another. that is silly. Quote
chucK Posted May 23, 2003 Posted May 23, 2003 HEY JUST IN CASE ANYBODY WANTS TO KNOW they got those zero cams ($47) and TCU's ($39) on discount at that Backcountry Gear vendor that advertises in the CC.com "hot deals" box. Ca-ching! Quote
bigwalling Posted May 23, 2003 Posted May 23, 2003 I bent the head of my yellow alien a bit the other day in a daisy chain fall. It still works fine. Not sure if it would be my first choice for free climbing though. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 27, 2003 Posted May 27, 2003 ehmmic said: You can also send the Aliens into the mfg and they'll replace the trigger wires and stuff for like $17 ea. you can do it yourself for like 17cents...they are robbing you blind. Quote
snoboy Posted May 27, 2003 Posted May 27, 2003 Szyjakowski said: ehmmic said: You can also send the Aliens into the mfg and they'll replace the trigger wires and stuff for like $17 ea. you can do it yourself for like 17cents...they are robbing you blind. Oh yeah? How? I can do most cams, but Aliens are a bit tricky, no? Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 27, 2003 Posted May 27, 2003 I had the pleasure of placing some Aliens for the first time on lead this weekend and everything they say is true. They go in like magic. They work where other cams will not. They save your butt from woe. Aliens rock! Quote
Dru Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 catbirdseat said: I had the pleasure of placing some Aliens for the first time on lead this weekend and everything they say is true. They go in like magic. They work where other cams will not. They save your butt from woe. Aliens rock! I call BS. Have you extensively tested every other brand of cam there is or are you just comparing them to, f'rinstance, a #3.5 Camalot Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 snoboy said: Szyjakowski said: ehmmic said: You can also send the Aliens into the mfg and they'll replace the trigger wires and stuff for like $17 ea. you can do it yourself for like 17cents...they are robbing you blind. Oh yeah? How? I can do most cams, but Aliens are a bit tricky, no? be creative. Quote
snoboy Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 Szyjakowski said: snoboy said: Oh yeah? How? I can do most cams, but Aliens are a bit tricky, no? be creative. Nothing like the free exchange of ideas... Quote
erik Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 snoboy said: Szyjakowski said: snoboy said: Oh yeah? How? I can do most cams, but Aliens are a bit tricky, no? be creative. Nothing like the free exchange of ideas... he talking out his ass and he knows it Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 get some pliers and dental floss and tie some good knots...sheesh. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 Dru said: I call BS. Have you extensively tested every other brand of cam there is or are you just comparing them to, f'rinstance, a #3.5 Camalot Nope, I have not. I'm not claiming they are the best, just that I like them. Quote
Attitude Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 catbirdseat said: Dru said: I call BS. Have you extensively tested every other brand of cam there is or are you just comparing them to, f'rinstance, a #3.5 Camalot Nope, I have not. I'm not claiming they are the best, just that I like them. But you said They work where other cams will not. Please show proof. Use the back of your computer if necessary. State all assumptions. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 28, 2003 Posted May 28, 2003 Attitude you got me with my own words. Yeah, they work better than Flexible Friends and better than Camalots. I haven't used TCU's so I can't compare. I'm new to the game, and learning a lot. Quote
Lambone Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 Proof...just go do some aid climbing somewhere...anywhere really... Take a set of Aliens up on a wall along with a set of TCU's or BD's for that matter. Then make your own descision about which works better. It's pretty common knowledge that Aliens will be way more bomber then anything else in flared crappy pinscars. And that's regular aliens, I haven't even mention the offsets, nothing even compares! Although I havent tried Zeros yet, they look pretty sweet too, pretty short stem/cable though... Quote
Attitude Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 Lambone said: Proof...just go do some aid climbing somewhere...anywhere really... Pfffft. Aid climbing is aid. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 'tude, pigs will fly before you say something that requires even the tiniest bit of thought. Quote
Attitude Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 catbirdseat said: 'tude, pigs will fly before you say something that requires even the tiniest bit of thought. Just trying to fit in.... Quote
iain Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 Attitude said: catbirdseat said: 'tude, pigs will fly before you say something that requires even the tiniest bit of thought. Just trying to fit in.... Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 29, 2003 Posted May 29, 2003 Attitude said: catbirdseat said: 'tude, pigs will fly before you say something that requires even the tiniest bit of thought. Just trying to fit in.... Now I feel like such a heel. Quote
catbirdseat Posted January 21, 2004 Posted January 21, 2004 Emmhic, Paco and I were having a discussion at REI climbing hardware department last night. We talked about the relative merits of TCUs versus Aliens and we covered the usual things about the TCUs being more durable, etc., Aliens supposedly being better for aid climbing, all stuff covered by this old thread. I noticed a big difference is load capacities between TCU's and Aliens in the small sizes. Is it is real or just a matter of one manufacturer being more conservative in its ratings? If Aliens are better for aid, then why do they have the higher load capacity? I've tried to group the cams below according to size. The Aliens all have a higher rating for their size. Silver TCU 00, 8.9-14.5 mm, 4.4 kN Blue Alien 3/8, 9.9-17.0, 9.3 kN Purple TCU 0, 10.4-16.5, 4.4 kN Green Alien 1/2, 12.7-17.0 mm, 11.6 kN Blue TCU 1, 11.7-19.5 mm, 8.8 kN Yellow TCU 2, 15.2-24.9 mm, 8.8 kN Yellow Alien 3/4, 15.5-27.1 mm, 13 kN Quote
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