scott

[ 08-13-2002, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: scott ]

i did the berger-stanley route (the one in the nelson guide). There is only one real chimney pitch and it protects very well. The other pitches are sort of 5.8 stemming between two walls-- no problem. The last pitch of this route is hard for 5.9 and takes small nuts and aliens or tcus.

Direct North Buttress of Bear Mountain.

colin random memories of clean break. clean break is long, but maybe not grade v. more like grade iv. the rock gets kind of bad at the end. the first four pitches are great. there is some routefinding problems-- you move right around pitch four when you come to a top of a block and are face with a left leaning seam that looks like it could be a decent crack. it isn't-- move right. all of the harder pitches have good rock. you can use a0 and do it at 10-. i seem to recall needing a number three cam for a 10- fist crack. we were never "on-route" at the top- we moved too far left or something-- the rock was getting bad and we just took the path of least resistance. you could do it in a day, but it is more fun to hike in one evening and bivy then leave the next evening-- we did it that way and made it back just before dark. on the second pitch- don't go into that corner on the left with the offwidth at the top (no matter how attractive it seems at the time...not) instead climb the face to the right and go over the little roof. the first pitch does not stay hard all the way although it looks like it does. sorry to ruin your onsight. it was a good route.

nice work colin. if you look close in one of those photos you can see agent orange and necro-whatever retreating with amazing hardman speed.

i have the 3# 12 oz version- what is it called? i think you should be sure to get guy lines on the side walls, mine did not come with them.also, there is no awning over the door, so if you crack the door at the top to vent, snow will come in. you could make a little awning, though. i like the tent alot, but haven't used it in winter yet. [ 11-04-2001: Message edited by: scott ]

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ok, but i still find the name "kascade trad klan" offensive.

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if climbing the normal route on rainier, skip camp muir, it is a sty that will make you sick. go to ingraham flats. the hut at camp muir has no ventilation, too many stoves eat the oxygen, and the whole place drips with condensation. i feel sick just writing this.

are they warm?

third week in august or after. i have heard that the thin red line can be done clean, but is it usually done this way?

thanks danielpatricksmith

err? pins? cam hooks? lowe balls? sawed offs?

what aid specific gear did u use for thin red line?

i think the rating depends on if you free the forth pitch. i "french freed" it at 5.9 A0, but it goes at pretty stiff 10b, i think. i don't think it takes more time to french free this pitch. the pitch above the rotten block, where you are in the corner and have to go over the little roof, is 5.9 A0, or maybe 5.10-. or maybe i was just sketched. if you can climb 5.9 and 5.10 by pulling pieces, you can do the route pretty fast. i guess that you shouldn't bother bringing boots for the snow patch. the second pitch is short but is the most time consuming.

the route is 'vanishing point.' it is 12b at the crux, i have heard. i'm not sure that it has been completed in a day. all pitches have been climbed free, though. apparently it has 1,500 feet or so of 5.11 climbing. the crux is at the roof obvious in profile. it is bolted, but i hear there are some fifty or sixty foot runouts at 5.9. the rock is apparently great.