sobo

Classic! I've often thought about doing something like that there at DP when the deathcicles have been especially bad. BTW, your friend is a great shot... 3:22 was beautiful! I take it he's shooting deer slugs/punk'n balls??

He's a pansy compared to trask...

Thanks! "So easy, even a skier can do it."

$23/night??? in Cham?? in high season? Stellar!

Linky?

Uhhh, cuz I'm a cheap-ass bastard that already has a tool that works with 17cm screws...? Well, I ain't that cheap (to risk my life to 5mm cord). I spring for old skewl 9/16" toob webbing...

Yes it has, indeed. But I found it by googling "Mt. Rainier get your bearings" and it comes up as the second hit in a PDF. Before it was updated (in October 2011) it was just called "Get Your Bearings" and was only a one page map with compass bearings and GPS coords (skipped all the John Muir and "do nots" crap on what is now the first page). Now that you've "found" it again, just download it and save it to your hard drive. My work here is done...

Thanks, Nastia. Funny how Putzl didn't stamp that on it. But now I know. It will thread a hole using up to a 17 cm screw, which is plenty deep in good ice. I also found the cap a wee difficult to slide, but I fixt that with a liberal application of Metolius cam loob... Oh, and it will clean out a 17cm screw (or shorter) that has a frozen plug in it. The bendy wire rope thingy can't do that...

Hey, thanks for that Billy! Nice to know that you're still looking out for my worrisome mind. Love this part:

From the article, it sounds like the burliest land-based adventure record by a human. Apparently, if I interpret the story correctly, she did this entirely under her own power. Which would seem to indicate that any male that completed this same task before her used "kites or machines" of some kind. Truly astonishing...

Holy shiite, muslim! Yes, it will be interesting to learn how he pro'ed it, since Kennedy and Kruk jerked all of the bolts... Man, the drama of this route in the last few weeks continues...

Huh, I didn't see where he pulled a boner or anything grevious. People have said a lot worse here and not been banninnated...

Please tell us again, why are you here...??

Be careful up there. Sorry, C, a bit of a misunderstanding there. I've been so short of hours of late that I need the cash pretty badly. So I ain't going up tomorrow, but headed to the office instead. And here I sat around all weekend doing nothing before the call came in tonight...

Agree with Tyson and wetslide. Mine have never gotten "too dry or cracked" either, so why not just wait. To use my favorite line before committing to a sketchy rappel... "WTF, what's the worst that can happen?"

Holy shiite, muslim! How'd you kipe that pic? That's some damn mighty fine lookin' granite they's got there on that there Cerro Torre... Zoom in and check it out. ...

Yeah, doesn't it? "All around were cracks that would have taken normal pegs, but the place looked like someone had let fly with a heavy machine gun." Pretty telling...

I had one of those for a long time, too, and had the same problem. After a short while, the cap gets loose and the hook starts poking holes in every damn thing in the pack. I replaced it with a solid shank hooker with a better hook cover. The solid shank makes snagging the webbing/cord really easy. It's this thing here: It doesn't have a brand name stamped in it, but I bought it at Monod's in Banff several years ago after I got freak'n tired of the wire rope hooky thingy that RafalA linked to tearing up my shit. Here you can see how it compares to some standard length screws. It won't fetch your thread on a 22 cm, but it'll grab everything else. The cover is a flexible rubberized plastic (same stuff that ice screw caps are made of) and slides all the way back to the groove in the top of the handle when you're using it. Then just pull it over the hook when you're done. My gear has really appreciated me getting this thing...

That would be my first guess, too. The fall line right out of Muir takes you south, then drops off to the west naturally, when you should be heading SSE. Lotsa folks have ended up over on the Nisqually after descending out of Muir in a storm/white-out... Get Your Bearings However, with the very strongs winds up there we've been hearing about, if they were descending during the snowstorms/white-outs, it's entirely possible that they could have been blown easterly during their descent and are somewhere on the Paradise Glacier...

Comparison of pic from Big Wall Climbing, Doug Scott, Oxford University Press, 1974, and orion_sonya's picture side-by-side: I couldn't lift the image from the GoreTex website that Coldfinger and John Frieh linked, so I'll just repost the link... Picture at link provided by both Coldfinger and John Frieh So it appears that we have a frame on the ground (in 1971) that looks remarkably similar in size, shape, and construction to the one that is on the wall today (which lacks the protective shields). I see three possibilities: 1) There were two compressors/frames, as some here have posited. 2) There was only one and it was hauled back up and reinstalled on the route, as another here has heard told. 3) There were two and locals kiped the other compressor and left the frame, as has also been hypothesized here. Is this about the time we summon Occam the Barber...??

Yeeeeeeeeeeeeee-haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaw! I loves me a good hoot'n'nanny!

Just got the page a half hour ago to head up tomorrow. Dammit, tomorrow is the first chargeable time I've had since before Christmas. And here I was sitting on my ass all last week and this past weekend... Here's hoping that they're still holed up somewhere and staying hydrated...

Got a pair of LS Makalus, bought back in 2000. Never waterproofed 'em, and they've never leaked. I think my feet actually stay drier in them than in my plastic Koflachs. YMMV...

I knew you'd show up once I dredged this back up. You're so... predictable.

Time to dredge up this very important thread... Happy Silver Jubilee, Budd!