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Everything posted by max


    WTF does NASA have to do with space?
  2. uneven half ropes

    Climbig is all about hedging your bets and doing as much as you can to make things safer. Redundancy is a big one in terms of avoiding the Big Chop. I'll tell you my story, how it changed me, and how it applies to your rope situation. I was rapping with a rope that had lost the middle mark. In the process of "finding the middle", I f'ed it up. I started rappeling. I would have rapped off (one) end of my rope if my then girlfriend hadn't yelled "What the f are you doing?!?!". Did I almost die? Yes. Was it because I made a error in judgement and procedure? Yes. BUT, if I had made it easier to tell where the middle was, I would have bbeen less likely to make that very error. I now only use buy bicolor ropes to help reduce the chance of making this sort of mistake. You have a situation that you can mitigate by... oh I didn't even pay too much attention to what everyone above has said because they are all deviations from a "standard". That standard's value is that it is the same (or dang close) every time, so your less likely to mess it up. Do you want to rely on telling every partner to be aware of this variation, every time you climb? My opinion is reduce the risk at every opportunity you can. Two ropes of unequal length are just waiting for an unintentional disaster.
  3. Had Your Flu Shots Yet?

    Being as I didn't really speak to the original issue (I only spoke to the claim pharms have a had a net negative effect), I'm not sure how you're able to make a conclusion about what I grasp and don't grasp. In fact, I'm not sure exactly what ya'll have been arguing about; sometimes it's hard to see the trees through the bullshit. But so maybe you can back up and make a more informed assessment of what I know: 1. I would agree pharms are big business and maybe a bit shady about it, 2. we do seem a bit focused on drugs as a cure for our ails, 3. I bet a lot of drugs out there have (significantly) bad side effects, 4. but I'm also one of those limp-dicked morons who trusts my doctor and 1000's of scientists over my own opinions. It seems to be working for me so far. Dave
  4. Had Your Flu Shots Yet?

    yeah, like getting rid of polio, having antibiotics for post-op infections, malaria drugs that save millions each year, antigen specific chemotherapy drugs, bio-engineered hormones and enzymes, the (in process) AIDS vaccines, heart drugs,.. hell, ibuprofen.... All these drugs sure have made us feel worse. As a cancer survivor, I chalk my current health (11 years and counting, bitches!) up to three things: getting a "good cancer" with lots of medical history (Hodgkins lymphoma), an oncologist who cared and knew what the hell he was doing, and finally, getting highly studied chemo drugs specific to my DNA and incredibly sophisticated, bio-engineered white blood-cell stimulators that collectively kicked the shit out of my disease. I'm sorry, but your conjecture here is absolute ass-spray.
  5. Beacon, Boots, Bindings, misc.

    AT boot size?
  6. This is interesting...

    There's a big difference between .11 and .11 scary death route. Shit, I can't even climb 5.8 if it's a death route 'cause that's not what climbing's about to me. So to set the bar for all around 5.11 climber using scary/hard to protect climbs seems a little odd.
  7. A buddy of mine just released this video. Check it.
  8. Driving home after climbing

    Nicotine is a stimulant just like caffeine. If you're familiar enough with it to not get the pukes, and use it infrequently enough to not have built a tolerance, this is a pretty good method. A chewing Primer for the aspiring alpinist-spitter: Get mint, it doesn't taste so bad. DO NOT get any other flavors; their sick! To acclimate yourself to it, try a peanut m&m sized dip placed squarely in the lower lip. When you start to feel dizzy/light headed, immediately remove the plug. If you take it out right then, you most likely won't get sick. If you ride it out... get ready. But continue this several times and eventually you'll tolerate it enough to use at your convenience. If you're already a smoker, you may still need to acclimate yourself; I've known smokers who've really got their ass kicked by their first chew. Figure out a "spitter" method for your car. Go disposable: mMost people are satisfied with an empty 16 oz pepsi bottle, but you may want something less see through! Don't try a pop can as a novice, you'll get slobber everywhere. As much as you may be tempted, don't use a water bottle because the flavor is hard to remove. Don't try spitting out the window; you'll get chew all over yourselves and your car. Be ready to take a shit. It is a stimulant, after all. Finding a good place to take a crap at 2 in the morning can be stressful. In my opinion, chewing is gross/inconvenient enough you likely won't use it enough to develop an addiction. Use it, don't abuse it! It really can be a useful drug.
  9. Clayton Beach/Larabee State Park

    For the record, there's also "Climber's Guide to Chuckanut Drive", also by Jason Henry, that has ~25 pages on Larrabee. I sent you a PM.
  10. Driving home after climbing

    I know it's not very cool to say what people should, but I'd have no problem saying "If you're drunk, you shouldn't drive regardless of the inconvenience it may cause you." Seems to be a similar situation.
  11. I am an elitist prick

    I think the reasoning you've used to "derived" that mtb is lazy could also be used to come to the conclusion skiing is lazy. Good luck with that!
  12. Petzl Grigri

    Maybe ACK can speak to this, but I've found the gg2 doesn't provide enough friction! This is using a 10.5 rope, lowering a 175 dude at a pretty slow speed. I don't remember having this problem with the original.
  13. Arpaio held a news conference Tuesday to release what he called new evidence that President Obama's birth certificate is fake. Arpaio says he's investigating that because some constituents asked him to — and, as Arpaio said to Fox News earlier this year when he announced he's running for a sixth term in November, he represents his constituents. "I'm the elected sheriff of Maricopa County — the 4 million people I'm responsible for," he said. Really puts his heart into his work! http://www.npr.org/2012/07/19/157012424/controversial-ariz-sheriffs-tactics-go-on-trial
  14. omg big government run amuck

    Coming back from squamish, they us guard challenged our story of supposedly climbing in squamish by asking what kind of rock it was. I assume if you give them a story, they want to see you can back it up with some details.
  15. I See That The Guy Who Crapped His Pants...

    No, Tosh chopped Ron Paul's route in Squamish. Counterfake it the one who crapped his pants.
  16. Many Climbing Guidebooks for Sale

    Hey, I'd take the select climbs if you put up a complete email address! Dave davidmichaelbrannon at gmail dot com
  17. Rope Up or Solo?

    Roping up is a tactic (action or process) used as part of an overall plan. Tactics in themselves are pretty hard to evaluate without the context of an overall strategy. Example: Cruise missile strikes: yeah or neah? Well, depends on the situation. I think you'll get better advise if you phase your question to compare two plans. If you're traveling as a team, you've got to have some sort of belay: running belays/fixed anchors/"body belays" (self arrest, bracing, ?). I would estimate that most people overestimate their ability to self arrest in some conditions. If you're planning on self arresting, make sure it seems reasonable given the conditions.
  18. Bolt info for "typical" hangers?

    Personally, I disagree with this strategy. While a stud looped with a nut would be tolerable for a running piece, I would never use two of these alone for my rap anchor. As a running piece mid pitch, a nut-looped bolt has some backup from the pieces above and below, each hopefully more tolerant of violent jostling and outward pulls. As anchors, two looped bolts are all you've got, and (in my opinion) not sufficiently "solid" enough to be used as rap anchors. Otherwise, I think Quarryographer's solution is best for midpitch bolts w/o hangers.
  19. Is this for real?

    http://brk.to/fb1e Holy crap.
  20. Is this for real?

    hmm. Missed the ropes. I thought he was soloing, but I have yet to go back and watch again. Ropes... pfft. totally changes the scary factor.
  21. Is this for real?

    ? Please explain your jargon. This is all that I got out of google... I was blown away watching this... that was near death!
  22. Accident on Baker?

    Has anyone heard what the visibility was like? Anyone up there that day?
  23. Instagram Hash Tags and such

    Absolutely no appologies nessesary. I just don't know what hash tags are... Can you explain what your post accomplishes?
  24. Instagram Hash Tags and such

    Man, I must be out of it. That was total gibberish to me. Is this one of those robot posters, like the one that keeps trying to sell sunglasses on cc.com? Can you please say that again, in verbiage your parents would understand. Please?
  25. Old farts cost more?

    I'm surprised this isn't a age-discrimination issue...