erik

dan smith or anyone else, you said that you know the guys well that are bolting the face. i have a feeling that you have talked to them about this little forum. i think in all fairness that they should respond to all this banter. so we can hear their side of the story. a witch hunt is a witch hunt, but are they witches? i/WE don't know. i absolutly 110% think that they should not bolt the south early winter spire in a purely bolted line. and personally think that they should remove the bolts personally. but as of yet that is only an uneducated statement made my me. there is always two sides of the story. lets hear em' both. now if the guys are posting under alias then forgot it. if you can't be proud for what you did and make your side heard then you are a problem and should have never done it. you have to stand up for yourself. it really sounds like most poeple are saying the same thing, just in different contexts. anyone!

dbb, what are you talking about? Tom you troller... All you guys flaming him can remember that when you clip in to the solid belay bolts on town crier--he put em there. who? i know those guys who did that. no tom in the team.

sticky man....very sticky....I think that what makes a route classic in not position or exposure or even memorable moves...the thing that makes all routes classic is the memories that you have with your friends doing them...the only thing that makes a route classic is you! if you had fun and enjoyed being in a beautiful place with good people on crappy rock(or whatever) then viola' a classic... that and if chicks dig it!

http://bouldering.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000026.html i climbed here like 6 yrs ago. not that cool. i guess the beauty is in the eye of the beholder. i also like the comment about someone going bolt crazy and spacing them 8-10 ft apart. now that is sporting in a non-sporting world. have fun

bring your fisherman gordan gear for the bugs in june and july and have fun. [This message has been edited by erik (edited 04-13-2001).]

hey guys i don't race em any more. i know how bad they are. i got 50 stches in may face from going over the handle bars in 6th gear. iwas using my past experience to illustrate the point that two-strokes are bad. my parents have given me grief over climbing since i started. i still get the danger lecture everytime i talk to them. my brother destroyed his knee riding, my dad broke his neck riding and i screwed my face up riding.. real safe. real safe

many beers in america. molson gold, moslon canadian, kokoonee and all the rest all taste like that king of beer budwiser. yuck! if oyu want i send you a sixer of the goods. bro!

tom, if you are referring to darwin's statment of survival of the fittest. he did not say that, he only elborateded on herbert spencer's theory. as far as snowmobiles violating the wilderness. they do in a big way. i used to race 2 stroke dirt bikes in the woods. a two stroke motor only burns about 60-70% of the pre-mixed fuel. that allows for 40-30% more pollutents into the enviroment. all two strokes do this. snowmobiles, jet skis amd dirt bikes. i don't know where you snomobile, but i had an almost fist-ta-cuffs with some of your brethern this past winter. i was skiing up a road and homeboys buzzed me. they told me that i was on their road. something about sno-park pass. me being a passive aggressive told ole' boy to go do something to his mother. let me tell you i thought he was going to have a stroke, so i turned my boards and made some turns. i have also seen two stroke oil contaniers laying a roadside drainage ditch leading into the cle elum river. hmmmmmmmmmmmmm i don't think hikers left this. i also would have to say that snow-might cover the trash up. either way. lose the tude' dude. too bad about that guy dying though. snowmobiler or not.

DAN TOOTH AND CLAW IS ONLY PARTIALLY A CLIP UP ROUTE

good, now that my church has been accosted i will start blowing up little si. whillans you want to help? concord or s. early either way i am appauled. especially if it is rap bolted.

DONT WORRY AMERICANS A POSSE OF MEAN SPIRITED HARD DRINKIN' AMERICAN GOOD OLE' BOYS WILL KEEP THE CRAGS SAFE. REMEMBER DRU EIGHT MILE CAMPGROUND IS RIGHT PAST THE 36 METER OUTHOUSES I KNOW YOU NEEDED THE CONVERSION. YOU MIGHT WANT TO BRING YOUR OWN BEER TO THE STATES. WE DON'T DRINK THAT PISS COLORED SISSY STUFF WITH CLAMATO JUICE YOU GUYS DO. I'M SURE THE ONLY QUEEN YOU GUYS WILL BE SINGIN' ABOUT IS BRYAN ADAMS. SEE YOU THERE [This message has been edited by erik (edited 04-12-2001).]

john i have done it twice. if oyu have questions about him poopin out i would say no. once in the coulior you are in it to win it. the route i personally think is not that demanding physically, though for someone who is new it might be. he might be in good physical shape but can he hadle it mentaly that is what i would ask myself. opinion would be to keep him on the south side. p.s. i am taking a gummer up there as well in may, maybe we should combine forces. safer eh!?

yossarian, the bolt ladders have been replaced with 3/8" stainless hardware. everyone can thank the washington mountain alliance for the hardware (sorry darryl i got it right now) [This message has been edited by erik (edited 04-17-2001).]

sticks and stones may break my bones but some internet jargon will never hurt me! okay kids time for a nap. not sure how old eveyone is, but come on guys we sound like abunch of 6th grade girls all heated up over the fact suzy has called you stupid. we all know suzy is inbred, just drop it. p.s. i don't flame people i just like to make myself laugh.

look on petzl's website http://petzl.com/FRENG/tech/techframe.html they have a fall force calculator and all the math an aspiring math/physics dork could ever want. plus all sorts of other cool tech stuff. i learned i how lead real rock from this site and pics from a black diamond catalogue.

john, i don't think dru works at the burger place. so it will probably be just a burger. dru erik

john does she have a younger sister

mr goodtime, the approach is just another approach. sure there are bad sections and there are good sections, but in the end if you find the right game trails and there are some peices of flagging out there(though who knows where they end up) it is just another standard approach to the mtns. it is not long and you can plan your approach from the road. good luck and have fun.

W you type faster than me. so i will second your motion. to transending! here here! competion bad- isn't that what wars are? [This message has been edited by erik (edited 04-11-2001).]

i clmbed the north ridge in 97' may or june. me memory is fuzzy. we left helitrope around 2pm and camped way out on the coleman. thomas is right about navigating the glacier, especially this year. we positioned our camp, so we would not have to carry over. worked great. we left camp at 1am and arrived on the summit around 7:30ish. the route is straight forward with the single in pitch going very easily, though i would say when we did it, it was closer to ai3 or so. we took two tools and one ice screw. it is nice to be on top of the mountian when all the rest of parties from the easton and coleman routes show up and you are already there. then you get to desecned before them. we desceded quicklry back to our camp and hurried home. reachinf back to the car around 1ish. for less the 24hrs on baker. next time i do it, i will be going from the parking lot in a push.

scott, in placing most larger cams you have to be carefule. you should place it tighter then you think. that it atleast what i have learned and it seems to work well. i have yet to get ANY gear stuck. (knock on wood!) fred as far as trango cams, i would have to agree w/ any else. if you are money concious then they are the way to go. though rumor has it that they don't last. better informed you are the better shopper you are. though when it comes down to it, spend YOUR money on what YOU think is best.

i don't think any rating system really matters in the long run. i personally give a shit what any climb is rated. i can do it or not. ratings is a way to measure yourself against other climbers. that is not what i climb for. once the world ends we won't need to worry about ratings. or guide books. it is a nice idea, but so is the metric system.

next time anyone sees mike, buy him a beer. he has put a lot off effort and taken a lot of heat for the whole thing. mike had the best intentions and still does. right now as we toil away at our jobs, he is really working by replacing the ladders. i think that the new setup will be quite nice and make the ladder alot more friendly. newbies got a lot more to worry about then clipping sub-standard bolts. about 50% or more of the bolts were actually 1/8" sketch masters and not those bomber 1/4"s. plus redoing the ladder today is alot harder since i have his lead line in t-town, so he has to use some 43m 4x4 tow rope. jah

got a princeton-tec l.e.d. headlamp. very nice. after needing to replace my zoom(for like the 5th time) i decided to jump onto the techie badwagon and get a l.e.d. lamp. i looked at the tikka, the size really turned me on. though after inspection of this little lamp, i saw the following...no gaskets, triple aaa batteries, no adjustibility & you can't replace the bulbs. you cannot have a lamp thats not water resistant in the pnw, so instantly the tikka is shot down. after looking at the tec light. i saw all the features that worked. plus you get a stardard bulb that focuses. another thing that i learned is that it has a voltage regulator so the batteries run at full power until they die. my super tech friend, says that thats not a good option, since you don't know when the batts die. i repsonded, "hey, bro after a trip i am going to change the batts anyway, especially if i know that i will use it alot. the light emmited is adequite for all but the big search. i would recommed this lamp to anyone. plus princeton-tec makes it in the u.s.a. and stands behind their warranties. my $.03

bd helmet is pretty nice- though you are right about the headlamp attachment points. when i was first looking at the helmet in a large super store that specalizes in expensive car camping with a weird shaped altar to plastic, i accidently broke it off. so careful, since this was not broke in a live action sequence. oyu might die!