erik

clueless well the original retro boltng attempted to not turn the ladders into machined lines. all orignial hardware was replaced with 1/4" split shank stainless buttonheads. all hand drilled. these bolts were manufactured by american hardware or some shit. two of the buttons heads broke off insde their holes. about 1/16"-1/32 depth.......these came from a weak batch of bolts made. after talking with some powers at be it seems that many stainless 1/4ers have had issues over the MANY decades.. they were replcaed with 3/8 and 1/2 stainless hardware. power drilled. there was an attpemt to resotre it with some original flavor. unfortuantly something out of EVERYONEs control went wrong. luckily no one was hurt or injured. this goes to show that all fixed gear and all bolts should be treated with some skepticism. the retro bolter still feels bad about it. what is done is done. like i said, maybe we need to remove it all and erase the route, so everyone can enjoy the original piece of stone.

quote: Originally posted by Alex: I beg your pardon? There are actually a number of us who live in the Rainier Valley/Seward Park....we just maintain a lower profile than you free-love Ballard Scandy hippies. quote:Originally posted by mattp: Good luck with this, Sara. If you are good at this, Alpine K may be out of a job. I would second the Ballard Bar and Grill, except that I might be accused of selfishly wanting to have pub club in my own neighborhood. Maybe we should have it in Columbia City, where no regular posters live anywhere near. alex i have some old gang warfare equipment forsale.....are you interesred?...mac-10s and flak jakets......t-bone even has a 7" double barrel that he claims the statue of limitations has ran out on??? even have armor piercing bullents!!!! and i am s sound scando yo!

looks like the fa chimed in, so i guess this tired debate is over..... how does replacing scary bolts and fixed gear make the route less aesthtic??? are not the bolts the original detractant from a purley aesthic stand point??? why dont we go out and remove all the installations and patch the holes, then you can go out and re-drill it on lead. for your boldness..... if you are looking for scare, go do an fa or a harder route..... abaraxas should suit you fine.... i think soo many people miss the point of bolts ladders/sport routes(too) these are in for protection and the link features...... the replacment of fixed gear is the responsibilty of all climbers, certainly an fa put those in, but with what intention??? fred used modern technology when he did it, and it has now been restorted with the use of modern tech.... bolts are not permant or bomb proof forever and to belive so, shows your ignorance and stupidity..... enjoy

yup thats one reason climbing is soo much fn there are usually several safe methods to gettin it done enjoy erik

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: Erik- I already climbed the manky bolt ladder. good for you, cuz so have i, and i have even done the new one too!!! trump!

sounds good man....beer is one of my favs!!! though i do know of some peeps doing the drag on......so plan accordingly..... enojy and have out there today you wad!!!

well i am going to take them free climbing this weekend and force myself to place them..... i didnt give them too much consideration, probabyl cuase i am biased against them. especially since the big shot from the co. comes by and talks his shit and then never responds. maybe i let all my fatness fall on one, with a bomber tcu placement right below it of course!!!

wow i might see bone on real rock!!! now that would be a true miracle!!! remember one, kust follow the red tape accross the small roof!!!

i am sorry if this is a real thread, but i highly doubt it. why post such stupid shit?? my other brain got the most of me and made me click on it, and now i feel that i am less of person for reading it....... maybe it is called self respect and self control and your partner is mastering those skillz....smart guy if you ask me.......

carolyn, i dont know how long the hike is, but one of the coolest in the gorge area is the eagle creek falls trail. i know oyu can loop it with another trail. but it has been years since i have done it. though the waterfalls are amazing and this would be a good time to see them as we enter peak snow melt snow.......

one thing to note, the city gets hot real soon....it is in the i-da-ho desert...... bring lotsa water and i got the guidebook if anyone needs to borrow it!! enjoy erik

just mellow stuff c2 and what not. i do it enough to be half way competent. though it is fun in its own way... 1 red daisy girth-hitched oval connecting it to top of a red 5 step bd aider-use with yellow ascender when jugging 1 blue daisy girth-hitched oval connecting it to blue 5 step bd aider- use with blue ascender 1 kong adjustable fifi- usually use as fixed length, but it is a nice option. 1 gri-gri clip each piece as high as i can loop in cable on nut or close to cam as possible. clip the other aider into either the gear or other oval. work my way as high as needed. fifi higest point and then crouch, put feet into highest step needed grab biner/fifi(i hate when it falls off) grunt and stretch to make placement. either grab placement and tug if sets nice then hold on to it and balance of hardest daisy to remove and clip with alternate daisy. test again and fifi it. i think it does make you faster, especially if you are thinking about it. less crap to mess with. aiders get tangled and i bet 4 gets tangled much more often and complex then 2. also it creates a balance. i can slack like okay. so maybe that helps. enjoy

so i go tthe chance to take these things to zion with us..... after intial inspection i put them in the pile of crap that seems to be useless...... we got down there and racked.....left them on the ground for the 1st route......smart move since we only needed BIG stuff.... next day i toyed with them again and we played with them with some friends whom were tearing up the zion scene.....out come they suck put them in pile of crap that stays on the ground..... over all off the 30 or piches we climbed i think i say about one placement maybe two where the slpitter cam would work....but why use it when you got an alien or a stopper that places easier??? also had a splitter cam 4cu....hahahahaha what a joke....it had about as much range and ummmm how baout a beat piece of gear... overall opinion on splitter cams...is lower then intial inspection......these things rate close to worthless......kinda a good idea, but over all they suck!!! i would never buy them or use them again. they are a pain in the ass the place and they dont even feel solid.... sorry boyz.....better keep your day jobz.......

AFTER logging 18hrs in the car we met specialed up at index to drink beer on sunday, i mean climb......i got worked.....though after a long hiatus from beer i was able to handle it with style.... climbing is hard!!!

well since i handt aid lcimbed in a while a felt bad fer talkin sheeit...so i went out and did some.... 2 aiders is the only way to go....unless you are on a hard nailing route...... and neri you ar right petzl ascenders are manky and scary....evey pitch i jugged i waited for my death......ahhhhahahahahahhaahahahahahahahah i think all that trick crap people are using now a daze to aid baby routes and shit(my type) are a waste of money and brain useage....use all those extra brain waves to give the gear you place good mojo........ again 2 aiders and petzel ascenders are the shit!!!

so we got home a day early and felt the need for the mother stone yesterday and went straight to index. after a fday of failing and geting wokred on some of my favs, i took a walk around the lower town wall to check the scene.... walkin past city park/zilla area i came across a group of peeps with about 30ft of webbing wrapped around a small tree and some dudes small female belyer tied to it..... so two things.... first of all dont block the trail with an unsafe setup....and then act all butt hurt when some one lets you know that it is not polite to block the trail........dont sling trees to snchor yourself to the ground...that is dumb... also tying a smaller belayer into a static point creates a dangerous situation for both memebers of the party....(this is mostly for crag climbing) DOING THIS removes the dynamics from a belay and increases falling force onto all the pieces in the system...another this this put her baout 15 ft from the wall and added another unsafe angle towards to the route....how dumb are most people??? quite going verbatim from freedom of the hillz plz...... so what do you guys think about tying yourself into a static point on the ground so that if the leader may fall the belayer isnt pulled into the wall??? why not be an attentive belayer and work on dynamic belaying skilzz???? and dont block the trail with your dangerous setup!!! thanks!!!

TC HAS GONE LCEAN FOR A COUPLE YEARS...EVEN a weak ass aid climber like myself can do it without even considering pins...... and scottp your wish to climb the manky bolt ladders is stupid....keep drving your car around if you want to be scared by machines and steel.... old people....sheesh!!!!

AHHHH i am home and more tired the you can think about!!! i have washed my hands well over 200 times and there are still balck and achy and shakey!!! again zion ranks as one of the best!!!! i know must preform damage control at the office.... too much to type, drunk stories smell better anyways!!!! and too my pawdner!!!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Do you have to wear an Avalung to drive an Avalanche? the avanlungs are built right into the seat belts.

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: And sometimes we climb...but that's another story. whoa! whoa! nobody told me that???

what is that old saying chuck?? speed and strength will never beat out old age and treachery??

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Juan, you don't even have to go through the initiation rights. Climbing Jberg was punishment enough. YOU'RE IN! i second that!!

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quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by specialed: I assume it will be at the Shit Faced retail store downtown, correct? Specialed- Your idea for an alternative clothing company? GSF - Get Shit Faced "Find the drunk climber in you" Greg MORE LIKE TRY and find the sober belayer around you!!! [ 05-03-2002, 11:22 AM: Message edited by: erik ]