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Everything posted by erik
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nope, i done those routes too...but dis one's higher in the canyon!!!
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yesterday reassured that the day before was a fluke as i flailed on some nice cracks & boulders....
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420am wakeup after a loooong dusty xcountry hike uphill here is the route description: dirty hard slabs lead to a dirty hard hand crack to o/w to dirty chimmeny. which leds to dirty hard finger crack and a dirty hard traverse and layback. which leads to even a dirtirer (read dirtiest) hard layback loose flake corner system then up into a real dirty chimmeny to some really dirty slabs. great climbing overall we encountered dirt, loose rocks, dirt, rock fall, like 6 whippers and a couple points of aid. descent is baby with 2 raps and some good ole' scree skiin'! icicle canyon always provides the fun dirt. good route jim and gordon! we are jealous you got it first!! i highly reccomend this route to anyone who is interested in dirt and adventure. pretty solid in the hard dirt rating, but not too bad cuz i was able to do it. we brought single st of cams to 4" and a couple stoppers and 2 tri cams. we used a 40m rope and had to simul some hard dirt sections (read kinda fun) made it back to the bar to get inbreiated.
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just got it in the email. thought i would share with the non-members of the aac. Dear AAC Member, The AAC would like to take this moment to update you about the Club's role in the recent media coverage centered around the tragedies on Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier. As always, our thoughts are with the families of those who were hurt and killed in these two climbing accidents, and with the injured rescuers. As climbers we know the risks of the sport, and the steps we take to minimize them. In the past two days, the AAC has been approached by many media outlets, including CNN, USA Today, the Associated Press, New York Times, both ABC and NBC national news (both the ABC and NBC stories should air this evening), and various local media outlets throughout the country. We thought it important to inform you, as an AAC member, of our position on this matter. Much of the debate after the tragedies now focuses on the cost of rescues and who should bear these expenses. The AAC's position on this matter is best summed up in four points: 1. Charging fees for rescues may delay and complicate future rescue attempts, putting more lives at risk. 2. Statistically, climbers fall well below the list of recreationists who require rescue. (According to National Park Service data from 2000, only three percent of rescues were for climbers, while many more were for hikers, swimmers, boaters, and other park visitors.) 3. The AAC is concerned that one group would be singled out to pay for an essential public safety service that is provided free of charge to other citizens. 4. U.S. Government policy states that search and rescue services provided "will be without subsequent cost recovery from the person(s) assisted." "Most people do not climb, and therefore they do not understand the education, tools, and safeguards that we climbers use to minimize the risks of climbing," noted AAC Deputy Director Lloyd Athearn. "Because of this they assume that climbing is incredibly risky and overtly dangerous, but the statistics clearly disprove that notion." The full text of an AAC report on Rescue Cost Recovery for Denali National Park and Preserve can be found at http://www.americanalpineclub.org/policy/RescueCostRecoveryTimetable.htm or simply go to the AAC homepage at www.americanalpineclub.org and search on "rescue." If you have any concerns, thoughts, or questions, please do not hesitate to contact the AAC staff at (303) 384-0110 or getinfo@americanalpineclub.org.
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quote: Originally posted by fern: I'm curious what constitutes a 'ropegun hooker' ... does there have to be an actual exchange of sexual favours for climbing experience? Can a guy be a ropegun rentboy? I DONT KNOW ABOUT FAVOURS , BUT AS FAR AS FAVORS GO!!!!!! WILL ROPEGUN 4TH CLASS FOR BEER!
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quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by Matt: For all you single climber chicas out there, I suggest you snatch up this ropegun while you can! He's available ladies! yeah, but will he haul my stuff for me? and - more importantly - is he cute? ACTULLY TIM HAS A REAL AVERSION TO CARRYING HEAVY LOADS....OR ALMOST ANY LOAD AT ALL!!!! HEHEHE BUT HE DOES CRANK!!! TIM FRED QUI FIGHTEN OVER WHO SHOULD BE DOING WHAT. BOTH OF YOU SHOULD BE WASHING MY CAR AND FRED QUITE SELLIN YOUR STUDENTS GEAR OR WE WONT BOOTY FOR YOU ANYMORE!!!
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NO IT IS A GIANT SLAB. I WOULDNT JUMP OFF OF IT IF I WERE YOU.... BARING OR INDEX PROB YOUR BEST BETS. OR THE LIBERTY GROUP... DIDNT SOME GUY JUMP OFF THAT AND GET FAWKED???
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BARNEY'S RUBBLE SURE DOES LOOK BIG FROM THE TOP OD SNOW CREEK DOESNT IT!!
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sheeit, i got the new eminem cd and it is pretty darn good...always thought he was too abrasive till now!
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quote: Originally posted by Alex: barf WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE? This thread started off great, with cocksuckers and hoodstahs from Cali and HATE HATE HATE Now I am feeling the love - Steamer actually congratulaing Anna, people saying hoostahs are welcome in Washington, people making up, civil tone, apologies, making friends, meeting for pub clubs! Ug! This is Spray dammit, I log on here to be entertained, not to make friends! SHUT UP ALEX OR I WILL KICK YOUR ASS!! nice work anna! [ 05-31-2002, 11:14 AM: Message edited by: erik ]
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good to go i get a daily report from my homeboyz.
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can't forget redmonk is just a kid, he just don't know any better.... self-reliance is an essesntial skill, but without intelligence and good decsion making it means shit. god's speed to all the rescuers, victims and their familes for a healthy safe resolution.
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quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx:
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[ 05-30-2002, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: erik ]
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quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx:
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1ST ARTICLE I HAVE seen from rock # ice in years that has anything worth reading a 2nd time.... http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=news_show&news_id=211
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Arc'teryx...Enjoy them while you still can.
erik replied to Son_of_Caveman's topic in The Gear Critic
I GOT ONE OF EACH........JACKETS DAT IS.... IAIN GOOD TO SEE YOU ARE STICKIN TO YOUR IDEALS.... THOUGH SOMEHOW MAN CHEESE JUST SOUNDS SO UNAPPEALING.... -
Arc'teryx...Enjoy them while you still can.
erik replied to Son_of_Caveman's topic in The Gear Critic
quote: Originally posted by Dru: I got three arcteryx gore jackets, one I got for $250 CDN, one I got for $25 CDN and one I got free... o ya i worked in shipping there nugz -
Arc'teryx...Enjoy them while you still can.
erik replied to Son_of_Caveman's topic in The Gear Critic
quote: Originally posted by iain: First, that jacket isn't even close to that price at retail, and second, it's a pro-deal. either way! dey still reperzent da same thing... -
quote: Originally posted by Necronomicon: The best part for me were the pics of all the partnerships, people successfully busting it out together. F*CK YEAH!!! -God yup me too!!! 8-1 7-1 3-0 6-1 now dats some team work.....3 years undefeated!!! who want some?? iain p-town needs a house cleaning!!
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quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: Chase, No posts for three months and then whammo - you're on a sprayfest with a vengeance. What's up - cooking channel off the air today? i think his probation is over. he can legally come near again computer now.
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peter, is the climb a popular aid route?? i doub it, i cannot think of too many routes in washington that could go free with heading on them(i may be ignorant) i say if they route can go free, then it should. what protection opportunities are you looking for?? can you use micro nutz or something similar??? are you planning on bolting it?? certainly the removal of the fixed heads will result in some scarring, but will the next person be able to reuse the placement?? will an aid climber feel the need to re-head the pitch if they come across it?? lotsa questions yo?!
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whats tonite? ahh thats right it soccer time!!!!!!!