Colin

Anyone know what the current status is of the Cascade River Road? Any downed trees? I'm guessing that one can drive all the way to the Eldorado Cr. trailhead, but that it is gated there?

Getting around only speaking English is no problem - there are lots of Koreans that know a bit of english. Just carry around some kim-chi and you're bound to make friends!

Well, I don't know much about the waterfall climbing in S Korea, but I know they have a fair amount of it. There are climbing stores all over - just stop in one and find out where the climbs are. There are way, way more climbers per capita in S Korea than in the US - it's a fairly mainstream activity. I was there in the summer, and I spent a few days climbing at Insubong (Seoul city buses take you to the trailhead), which was great. One of the routes I climbed was called "Shenada" - it's a bastardized version of Chouinard, as he made the first ascent of the route while over there. It was as good as Outer Space. The whole country is littered with awesome granite crags. One thing to note: be extra alert if you hook up to climb with some Koreans. They are good climbers, but they are extremely cavelier about danger. Seriously, they make French climbers look like safety freaks.

Lowell, Torment saw a winter ascent in 81 - it's in the new green CAG.

When I hiked the W Butt (in early-mid June) the only bag I used was rated to +10 degrees (Integral Designs North Twin). I don't neccesarily reccomend such a bag for the W Butt, but consider the added warmth from all your clothes.

Mark and I bailed early this morning from our high point 3 pitches above the notch, due to bad (and particularly cold) weather and really bad conditions. Our itinerary: day 1 - hike in day 2 - fix the first 3 pitches day 3 - sit in the tent while it dumps snow day 4 - head up with 5 days of food and bivy gear, and make it to the snowfield right above david's "super alpine" ice pitch. day 5 - climb the remaining pitches to the notch in nasty weather and pouring spindrift day 6 - sit in the tent at the notch while it is really windy and snowy day 7 - leave the notch at 2:30, climb three pitches and then bail and hike out It is a really cool goal indeed. I agree with Wayne and David, that pre-stashing bivy gear at the notch is cheating. That's interesting about your friend, Layton, because I have frostnip on both of my thumbs now. Oh, and a gear note: A tent made of epic fabric does not work for full-on winter conditions, in fact it was totally miserable.

Well, regardless of whether you decide to call it "Infinite Bliss" or not, definitely don't call it the "Weiss Route!" The first ascencionist's name is Mike PREISS. And, yes, his claim is valid - he's a hardcore dude.

Well, obviously if the summit is reached outside of calendar winter then it isn't a winter ascent. I have wondered these questions of approaching myself, and although they only apply to a few days in December it is a good question. My personal feeling is that if the approach and maybe even the first day of the climb is done before winter it can still be a winter ascent as long as summit day is the first day of winter. These clarifications are fairly simple here in the Cascades were almost all of the climbs themselves can be done in 1-2 days, but it is perhaps harder to define on climbs that require a lot of time (rope-fixing in the Himalaya, or some stuff closer to home. When Jim and Kit climbed the NE Butt of Slesse it took like 6 days or something). On longer climbs like that, perhaps it is reasonable to think that one must start the climb in winter proper. Yes, Iain, it is obviously a very silly and stupid clarification, but so is every single other type of "first" in climbing. If you have such a cynical view of proper winter ascents, then I should hope you've never taken note of whether you climbed a route free, or if someone skied from the summit proper, or if a hammer was used on the wall, or if the route was climbed alpine-style, or if oxygen was used, etc. From your view of whether a climb was a winter ascent or not I'll assume that you don't even know the difference between redpoint and onsight, since those are the uber-resume-nitpicks.

What makes you think that you can't replace the picks? They are bolted on, not permanently attached.

I supposedly have a subscription now, but I haven't gotten #9 yet - have you guys?

Could someone who has the power to do so please delete this thread as a more current one now exists?

Gordy Skoog and I will again be compiling and editing WA submissions for the coming American Alpine Journal. The goal is to be complete as possible, so please pass this message on to climbers who might not see it otherwise. Any first ascents or first winter ascents ought to be included. If a first ascent is of Grade IV seriousness or higher, a first-person report of 200-500 words is preferred. Although the AAJ does not officially accept submissions under Grade IV, Gordy and I have been including them in summary format. For routes of this grade, a paragraph of vital information is ideal - when the route was climbed, who was involved, and basic information for someone to find and follow the route. Thanks much, Colin Haley cchaley@u.washington.edu gordys@altrec.com

I live two blocks from Shultzy's and minors are welcome to come get perved here beforehand if they like. Also, I have two very comfy couches welcome to anyone who gets too perved to drive home. 206-304-0578.

Pete tried to peer pressure me into drinking alcohol, but I am well trained by DARE, and I firmly just said, "NO." Sometimes I followed it up with a, "I don't need alcohol and drugs to hide under, I have Jesus." I know very well that underaged drinking leads to marijuana usage. And we all know that marijuana usage will turn your brain into stir-fry, and make you grow breasts, and turn you into a sick dope-fiend, with semen stains all over your pants from constantly jacking off when you can't find another rape victim.

We have 'em in stock at Pro Mountain Sports.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=767&sort=1&cat=all&page=2

Just to clarify - I thought I made it clear in my original post, but I definitely climbed Robson in TWO days, not one. I left the trailhead around 4:30am on Friday, and got back to the car at 8:15pm on Saturday. I spent a full bivy at the Robson-Helmet col, getting there about 3 hours before sunset, and heading out at about sunrise. As for gear, I'll go into a lot of detail, because I'm a total gear-whore nerd. Some of the stuff I took: -30m of 5mm cord (Maxim tech cord) -1 titanium ice screw -2 pitons -HB dyneema helmet -Camp XLH 130 harness (6 oz.) -little locking biner -DMM bugette belay device -3 slings -3 Trango superfly biners -coat hanger v-threader -Charlet Sarken crampons -Charlet Quarks -La Sportiva Trango Extreme boots -Serratus Genie pack (15 oz.) -Evazotte pad -1.5 pound down bag -1 pound bivy sack (way too heavy!) -pocket rocket stove -ti pot -freeze dried dinner (in a ziplock rather than the heavy packaging) -lexan spoon -1 Platypus bladder (without hose) -fuel canister -bic mini lighter -lightweight windscreen, made of aluminum foil -Minox camera -clothes (no extra socks!) -mini sunscreen tube -sunglasses (no case!) -bars, trailmix, and PB&J's Oh yeah, and I had no map or photocopied route description. Your memory weigh's less.

October 21, I believe.

Hehe. Deja-frickin-vu... (http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3&Number=54884&Forum=f3&Words=stuart%20%27bilers&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=54884&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=2&oldertype=y&bodyprev=#Post54884 ). Polish Bob and I are friends now though - this guy isn't necessarily a jerk, just incorrect. I had already scanned a couple photos though, and I just posted them in the gallery. Hopefully this link will take you to my pictures: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?ppuser=160&cat=500

Thornton Peak.

All those positive rumors about it going away had me so happy. Tear down all NW Forest Pass Signs.

Nice job Pete and Rolf - looks rad. Any pictures of the north face?

A very worthwhile post - thanks. How was Alberta? Did you finish the Japanese route?

The face is about 50-60 degrees. I saw a large rockfall when I was in the Bugaboos about 4 weeks ago - I can only imagine what it must be like after all this hot weather.

Climb: Mt. Robson-North Face Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: I climbed the North Face of Robson on Saturday, after biking/hiking into the Robson-Helmet col on Friday. Descent was made by the Kain Route. I didn't have a watch and so I don't know times of specific parts of the trip, but I left the Robson-Helmet col at sunrise and got back to the trailhead at 8:15pm. The approach rock buttress is tedious, but there are lots of cairns, so routefinding is easy. The glacier from the top of the buttress to the col is very broken up, and some tricky navigation is required. The North Face is in good condition - icy enough for good sticks the whole way, but soft enough to rest one's calves often. On the upper Emperor Ridge I traversed on the north side for about 200 ft. The Kain route seemed fine as well, but had one large crevasse/bergsrund that will provide a bit of difficulty. Getting from the base of the Kain route back up to the Robson-Helmet col is straightforward, but puts you under a large cornice for the last 200 ft. Gear Notes: -30m rope -2 screws, 2 pins, runners, harness Approach Notes: -Take a mountain bike (one can bike the first 7km) -Hike in a pair of tennis shoes. Not only will they be more comfy, but you can ford the river in them (crossing barefoot was quite painful).