Colin

I've been told by several people that Petzl/Charlet is coming out with a removable pinky rest for the Quark (similar to the one for the Viper), fairly soon. I just hope it is compatible with the Quarks out now!

I'm sure this info is available somewhere, but I can't seem to find it on the NPS site. Can one drive to the Ipsut Creek trailhead right now, or is it washed out or something? If one can drive the Ipsut Creek way, I assume most people would say that is the currently preferrable way to approach Libertry Ridge? It sounds like you have to cross Lower Curtis Ridge no matter which way you approach (assuming a descent of Emmons), it's just a matter of whether you do it on the way down or the way up. Thanks much.

Well, it seems from the map that the White River Road branches out from 410 at 3,686, so I would think that a significant portion of the road would be bikable even if the road is closed. Seem reasonable?

So, it looks like Cayuse Pass is opening on Friday afternoon (http://www.nps.gov/mora/pphtml/newsdetail12325.html). Does this mean that one will be able to drive to the White River Campground, or will that road still be gated?

Climb: Summit Chief Mountain-North FAce Date of Climb: 4/18/2004 Trip Report: Dave and I climbed the North Face of Summit Chief Mtn today after hiking into the base of it (via the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie) on Saturday. The conditions were fantastic, and we encountered more actual ice than I have ever before seen on a Cascades alpine-ice route. I think that the route took use about 5.5 hours and then about 2 hours to descend via a couloir on the west side. Joe Catellani, ever generous, clued Dave and I into the face a while back, and mentioned that it was probably unclimbed. Whether it had been climbed or not, it was a fantastic route, very similar in character and difficulty to the 1971 route on the North Face of Dragontail. We chose a line just right of the central rib, but many different routes would be possible on this face - generally harder to the right and easier to the left. Dave had a digital camera, so some pictures should probably surface fairly soon. Gear Notes: We had only 2 ice screws, but wished we had 3-4. The rock is quite compact (although not very loose), so knifeblades were useful. Approach Notes: Bikes, hiking, snowshoeing.

Yeah, that line was totally visible in Sean's article in Alpinist a while back. It's been tried several times I've been told, but everyone has just encountered snowy crap. If conditions materialized it looks like it'd be amazing.

I just saw the new UW Climbing Guide. Looks really well done, and it's being distributed locally by Captain Defacto himself. Something to check out.

Awesome climb, and awesome ski! By the way, I'm pretty sure that was the first winter ascent of the North Face of Buckner.

Fuckin' awesome! I might have a new favorite website.

I've used the Integral MK1lite Event tent on the last 3 climbs I've done, and it rocks. The normal MK1lite weighs less than the I-tent, and the Event MK1lite weighs significantly less than the normal MK1lite. The Event fabric is also more breathable than Toddtex or Tegraltex. I also think that the Integral vents are much better than the Bibler vents. If I could afford two single-wall tents, I'd get the MK1lite Event AND the Bibler Firstlight (I think the Firstlight would have it's place for when the forecast is really good.). However, I can't afford two, and thus I would get the MK1lite Event.

The first 4-5 miles of overgrown logging road are easy, although all the creek beds you cross have been changed somewhat. From the end of the logging road to Terror Creek is the bushwacking crux, and I lost the route both on the way in and on the way out. I didn't put on snowshoes until up on the crest of The Barrier, although there were plenty of consolidated patches before then (In fact, there were little patches of snow all the way down to the trailhead, at about 600 ft.). The snow was soft where it hadn't seen much sun, and there was a firm crust where it had - covered by about 6 inches of fresh snow. The fresh snow was sliding off the crust very easily, which is why I wanted to get out before another 6 inches fell.

Climb: The Chopping Block-SE Route Date of Climb: 2/15/2004 Trip Report: I climbed the Chopping Block today after hiking in yesterday via Goodell Creek and The Barrier. The entire Goodell Creek valley (and I would imagine most N Cascade valleys) has plenty of evidence of November's torrential rains. The Goodell Creekbed is about 4 times wider in places, and the landslide that came down the opposite side of the valley is enormous. The SE route was moderate - mostly steep snow with a couple tricky mixed sections. I originally planned to stay up for Monday, but the avalanche hazard seemed to be rapidly growing. I believe this was probably the first winter ascent of The Chopping Block - If you think or know otherwise, please let me know. Gear Notes: -altimeter would've been useful -50m 6mm cord -Camp XLH 130 harness (4.5oz) -DMM Bugette -Snowshoes very useful

On my calendar, March 20 is marked as the vernal equinox. Does that make it the last day of winter, or the first day of spring?

Gordy Skoog and I are once again working to make sure that the Washington section of the American Alpine Journal is as complete as possible this year. We are already aware of several new routes that were done in 2003, through this site and elsewhere, but my guess is that others have gone undetected. Grade IV and harder routes are ideally recorded as first-person reports, and we will be compiling reports of Grade II-III routes into a general summary. If you have something to submit, please send a description to either Gordy or I. Thanks much, Colin Haley gordys@altrec.com colinhaley@comcast.net

We rapped down the standard North face. We found the first rap anchor, but then had to build two of our own. The traverse back to Prusik Pass is a bad angle for avalanches, but the snow was quite firm. There has been enough wind up there that the fresh snow has only accumulated in some spots.

We hauled crampons and tools all the way in there, but ended up just doing the ridge in boots and gloves - There was lots of snow on the ledges and holds, but no ice. The 5.7 slab was interesting in plastic boots...

Climb: Prusik Peak-West Ridge Date of Climb: 1/26/2004 Trip Report: Mark and I climbed the W ridge of Prusik today, after spending Saturday and Sunday skiing in via Snow Creek. In the general Enchantments area there is about 3-4 inches of new snow on top of a crust. We saw lot's of ice on the approach - in particular, there are many pitches of ice above Nada Lake.

sold.

I'm tearing down my home wall, and have 85 Nicros holds that I won't need anymore. All are bolt-on and have matching bolts. There is a wide range of sizes, with about 15 jugs, 30 small ones, and the rest mid-sized holds in between. I paid well over $100 for them originally, but I need cash. $40. colinhaley@comcast.net 206-304-0578

What is that? The Canmore "special" snowshoeing team?

I can't seem to figure out which leashes are the best if one plans to waterfall climb and alpine climb on the same tools. The BD lockdowns are great for alpine climbing, but really are not very comfortable for steep ice. All the clippable leashes (androids, Charlet version, etc.) are nice for waterfalls, but not so nice for alpine stuff. I've found the Grivel Fast leashes to be the most comfortable, but they are a bit finicky and slow for getting in and out. The BD twist leashes have almost no security in terms of dropping a tool. Perhaps the Grivel Easy-G is the way to go, although I certainly wish it weren't so bulky. Obviously, I'm a bit too picky, but do any of you have other ideas/opinions?

Yes, I agree, that was a ridiculous article. I had no idea while being interviewed what she planned to write about. The majority of those quotes were totally garbled and vague references to what I actually said.

Gone.

Charlet Moser Grade 8 crampons, monopoint version. They are in good condition, but I just bought a pair of Rambos. colinhaley@comcast.net

http://www.mushroomjohn.com/species/pscyans6a.jpg