Colin

I supposedly have a subscription now, but I haven't gotten #9 yet - have you guys?

Could someone who has the power to do so please delete this thread as a more current one now exists?

Gordy Skoog and I will again be compiling and editing WA submissions for the coming American Alpine Journal. The goal is to be complete as possible, so please pass this message on to climbers who might not see it otherwise. Any first ascents or first winter ascents ought to be included. If a first ascent is of Grade IV seriousness or higher, a first-person report of 200-500 words is preferred. Although the AAJ does not officially accept submissions under Grade IV, Gordy and I have been including them in summary format. For routes of this grade, a paragraph of vital information is ideal - when the route was climbed, who was involved, and basic information for someone to find and follow the route. Thanks much, Colin Haley cchaley@u.washington.edu gordys@altrec.com

I live two blocks from Shultzy's and minors are welcome to come get perved here beforehand if they like. Also, I have two very comfy couches welcome to anyone who gets too perved to drive home. 206-304-0578.

Pete tried to peer pressure me into drinking alcohol, but I am well trained by DARE, and I firmly just said, "NO." Sometimes I followed it up with a, "I don't need alcohol and drugs to hide under, I have Jesus." I know very well that underaged drinking leads to marijuana usage. And we all know that marijuana usage will turn your brain into stir-fry, and make you grow breasts, and turn you into a sick dope-fiend, with semen stains all over your pants from constantly jacking off when you can't find another rape victim.

We have 'em in stock at Pro Mountain Sports.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=767&sort=1&cat=all&page=2

Just to clarify - I thought I made it clear in my original post, but I definitely climbed Robson in TWO days, not one. I left the trailhead around 4:30am on Friday, and got back to the car at 8:15pm on Saturday. I spent a full bivy at the Robson-Helmet col, getting there about 3 hours before sunset, and heading out at about sunrise. As for gear, I'll go into a lot of detail, because I'm a total gear-whore nerd. Some of the stuff I took: -30m of 5mm cord (Maxim tech cord) -1 titanium ice screw -2 pitons -HB dyneema helmet -Camp XLH 130 harness (6 oz.) -little locking biner -DMM bugette belay device -3 slings -3 Trango superfly biners -coat hanger v-threader -Charlet Sarken crampons -Charlet Quarks -La Sportiva Trango Extreme boots -Serratus Genie pack (15 oz.) -Evazotte pad -1.5 pound down bag -1 pound bivy sack (way too heavy!) -pocket rocket stove -ti pot -freeze dried dinner (in a ziplock rather than the heavy packaging) -lexan spoon -1 Platypus bladder (without hose) -fuel canister -bic mini lighter -lightweight windscreen, made of aluminum foil -Minox camera -clothes (no extra socks!) -mini sunscreen tube -sunglasses (no case!) -bars, trailmix, and PB&J's Oh yeah, and I had no map or photocopied route description. Your memory weigh's less.

October 21, I believe.

Hehe. Deja-frickin-vu... (http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3&Number=54884&Forum=f3&Words=stuart%20%27bilers&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=54884&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=2&oldertype=y&bodyprev=#Post54884 ). Polish Bob and I are friends now though - this guy isn't necessarily a jerk, just incorrect. I had already scanned a couple photos though, and I just posted them in the gallery. Hopefully this link will take you to my pictures: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?ppuser=160&cat=500

Thornton Peak.

All those positive rumors about it going away had me so happy. Tear down all NW Forest Pass Signs.

Nice job Pete and Rolf - looks rad. Any pictures of the north face?

A very worthwhile post - thanks. How was Alberta? Did you finish the Japanese route?

The face is about 50-60 degrees. I saw a large rockfall when I was in the Bugaboos about 4 weeks ago - I can only imagine what it must be like after all this hot weather.

Climb: Mt. Robson-North Face Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: I climbed the North Face of Robson on Saturday, after biking/hiking into the Robson-Helmet col on Friday. Descent was made by the Kain Route. I didn't have a watch and so I don't know times of specific parts of the trip, but I left the Robson-Helmet col at sunrise and got back to the trailhead at 8:15pm. The approach rock buttress is tedious, but there are lots of cairns, so routefinding is easy. The glacier from the top of the buttress to the col is very broken up, and some tricky navigation is required. The North Face is in good condition - icy enough for good sticks the whole way, but soft enough to rest one's calves often. On the upper Emperor Ridge I traversed on the north side for about 200 ft. The Kain route seemed fine as well, but had one large crevasse/bergsrund that will provide a bit of difficulty. Getting from the base of the Kain route back up to the Robson-Helmet col is straightforward, but puts you under a large cornice for the last 200 ft. Gear Notes: -30m rope -2 screws, 2 pins, runners, harness Approach Notes: -Take a mountain bike (one can bike the first 7km) -Hike in a pair of tennis shoes. Not only will they be more comfy, but you can ford the river in them (crossing barefoot was quite painful).

Thanks for the compliments, everyone. To answer your question, Dru: I think that the Bravo Glacier Route and the W Ridge, Angel Glacier route are about equal in difficulty. Advantage of starting from Fury Gap: You only have to carry your bivy gear to 3200 m, rather than to the base of the summit pyramid. Advantage of starting with the Bravo: You could start and end your traverse from Sunny Knob - this means no food caches to be dropped off, and therefore a cheaper heli fare. Starting from Combatant Col would obviously be the easiest, but then you wouldn't have "traversed" Waddington to any extent.

Climb: Waddington-"Full Range Traverse" Date of Climb: 7/26/2004 Trip Report: Mark Bunker and I made what we believe to be the 2nd ascent of "The Waddington Traverse" recently, over 7 days (July 26 - Aug 1) of spectacular weather. Here's a brief trip report: July 26: Fly to Fury Gap, and hike up the West Ridge to a camp on the Angel Glacier at 3200 m. Very straightforward. July 27: Hang out at camp and acclimate. July 28: Hike up the Angel Glacier, via straightforward crevasse navigation. Downclimb steep couloir to get to the summit pyramid - very icy and time consuming. Climb SE Chimney on summit tower, via Harvard Notch Direct (Wadd Hose). The Chimney was running with water, so we climed on the rock to the right. Every once in a while ice gargoyles would come crashing down. Right before leaving the summit, we saw Jeff and Brent (CA and CO) nearing the summit via the NW Ridge of the summit pyramid. Rap the SE Chimney, and climb back up the steep couloir to the Angel Glacier. Use someone's steps to quickly climb the NW Peak, and then descend the Angel Glacier back to camp. July 29: Descent to Combatant Col is complicated, and involved one rappel. NW slope of Combatant was very icy. The N Ridge leading to the NW summit was straightforward. The ridge scramble from the Great Couloir notch to the main summit is really enjoyable. The descent to Chaos Col was very time consuming, because the "snow slope" was again hard, blue ice. The west face of Tiedeman was a fun mix of good rock and moderate ice slopes. Bivy on summit of Tiedeman. July 30: It took us 7 hours to descend Tiedeman. One 30m section was the worst rock I have ever encountered (although not steep). The "snow slope" was again hard, blue ice, and we made a couple rappels. The west ridge of Asperity was a really enjoyable climb - one of the best along the traverse. We again experienced hard ice on the descent of Asperity, and chopped two bollards on the way down, all the while cursing ourselved for not bringing one screw and a v-threader... Bivy at Asperity-Serra col, on prepared tent platfom. July 31: Climb the NW Corner of Serra V, and finish through the keyhole. Excellent climbing on good rock. It felt like 5.9 with gloves and boots, but I don't think the rock is actually any harder than 5.7. Picked up fresh rap slings on the way up, to use on the descent. Mark signed our initials in the summit register with his blood. The descent down the E face was indeed the crux of the traverse. I think we took a line more to descender's right than previous parties, because we had to climb back up to the 4-5 col. We made 3 full-length raps (50 m ropes), and one half-length rap, leaving 2 pins, 2 nuts, and 1 cam. Climbed Serra IV in the evening light, and bivied on some ledges between Serra IV and III. This seemed like a much better spot than the 4-5 col. Aug 1: It took quite a while to get to Serra III from Serra IV, and we made one half-length rappel to the north. The descent to the II-III notch went quickly, and we ditched our packs to head up NW ridge of Serra II. It was one of the best climbs along the traverse, and here we met the ever-cool Peter and Katy. From the II-III notch we rapelled down to the Tellot Glacier, drank some water, and then headed up for Serra I at 9pm. We climbed the Firey Route and rapelled Don's route, and then stumbled down the Tellot to the Plummer Hut, where we arrived at 3:30 am. We spent the following week lounging around, and doing easy, short peakbaggin on Claws 1-4, Shand, McCormick, Termination, Eaglehead, and Dragonback. Gear Notes: -should've had 2 ice screws and a v-threader -should've had real ice tools instead of 3rd tools -having a tent was much nicer than bivy sacks would've been -two 50m ropes worked well (a 9.0 stratos, and a 6mm perlon)

You guys climbed it first. We not only used your tent platform at the Asperity-Serra Col, but we took your nice new spectra rap slings on the way up, and promptly left then on the east face. We also found ourselves without a pencil, so Mark selflessly wrote our initials with his blood, ala Diedrich and Davis. I'll write a full report of the traverse when I'm not so tired.

I've never been to the Bugaboos before, and might be going shortly. What is the best website out there for predicting the weather in the Bugaboos? Thanks in advance.

There is a picture of my tent (at Colchuck Lake) here: http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2003/images/talkingcamp.jpg Also, I'll lower the price to $260.

Climb: Mt. Terror-North Buttress Date of Climb: 6/29/2004 Trip Report: I climbed the North Buttress of Terror today, after hiking into a camp in Crescent Creek Basin on Monday. Views from the buttress included rad-looking ski tracks of the first descent of the Degenhardt Glacier (Sky? Ross?). I used the Himmelhorn-Ottohorn col, which is very easy right now, although the Terror-Rake col would've been faster (and was used by the skiers to cross over). In any event, if you want to climb it, do it within the next 3 weeks, before the glacier gets too broken up. I'm not sure, but I believe I climbed the Stoddard Buttress rather than the original route. I encountered climbing of about 5.7 in difficulty. Descent via the West Ridge goes quickly.

Integral Designs MK1-Lite Tent For Sale. It is 14 months old, but has only been used for 2 or 3 nights out. It is in really good shape - no rips, tears, or smells. It has already been completely seamsealed (in addition to seamtaped, of course). Yellow, one door, weighs under 4 pounds. It has an extra-large door awning that I had Integral make which is really useful for Cascades dumpfests, particularly while cooking inside. It's a great tent, I'm just upgrading to the eVent version because I can now get Integral stuff cheap. It was $460 new. How 'bout $300? Send an e-mail rather than a PM. colinhaley@comcast.net 206-232-1798

I have a pair of Garmont Ferratas that I would like to sell. They are very similar to the Garmont Towers, if you are familiar with those, but a little bit less waterproof (no G-tex) and a little bit lighter-weight. The last, sole, and whatnot is identical. They are great Cascades summer boots. They take newmatic crampons if you like, and they rock climb quite well. Anyways, my damn feet grew and now they crush my toes. They were $150 new. How 'bout $40 (they're in quite good shape actually, I'm just broke)? colinhaley@comcast.net 206-304-0578

I happen to have an Integral Designs MK1-Lite that I would like to sell. I don't know if you are set on the Bibler name, but I personally think that the Integrals are very similar but slightly better tents (lighter-weight, and better vents). The MK1-Lite is equivalent to the I-tent, by the way, rather than the Eldorado. The tent has seen very little use, and all the seams have already been seamsealed (in addition to seamtaped, of course). Also, when I ordered it I had an extra-large awning sewn over the door, which is particularly key in those Cascades dump-fests. Oh yeah, and it is yellow. It is an awesome tent - I'm upgrading to the new MK1-lite eVent version. The tent cost about $460 new (a little extra for the custom awning). I'd sell her for $300. If you guys are both interested then the higher offer wins of course. Selling in the Puget Sound area would be highly preferable. colinhaley@comcast.net, or 206-304-0578.