Colin

RANGER = TRAIL NAZI

Dru and Erik, There are more to the Mt. Adams lava tube caves than you might think. I have been to the ice caves many times (even went ice bouldering in them), but if you do some thrashing into the forest there are a lot of bigger and undeveloped caves. We even found a new one which required a little digging and crawling on our bellies to get into. The interior had a cool dome ceiling, and a perfectly flat sand floor!

I finally need to buy a new sleeping bag, and am faced with some difficult decisions. First of all, I need to choose between down and synthetic insulation. I have been told that there is a new type of Polarguard out, that is very close to acheiving the weight and compressibility of down. A synthetic bag sounds very enticing for multi day, winter, CASCADE (wet) outings. Also, I am not sure whether to get an ultralight bag, or more of a general use one. An ultralight bag (such as new FF Vireo?) would be perfect for when I know I'll need to bivy, but still need to go super light. A heavier bag I could use in winter, and I'm not sure what I would use in winter if I got an ultralight bag. Can anyone convince me either way?

I have approached a lot of climbs on randonee skis, and it is not nearly as difficult as you think. First of all, Silvretta bindings work far better than others for accomadating climbing boots. Second, you should use really short skis. I would reccomend about 160 cm for an average size climber (I even use 140 cm kiddy skis). The smaller surface area might make you a bit slower on the approach, but will make you much, much faster and efficient on the ski out. The third thing to do is the most important: **My dad and I call these "knee cords." Find a nylon strap with a buckle that fits around your upper shin, right below your knee. Next you drill a hole in the tip of your ski (some already have one). Then you find some 5/6mm perlon and run it from the strap below your knee down to the tip of the ski. I have a special system so that I can adjust the strap and cord very quickly, but I'm sure you can figure that out. For the ski descent, break out your knee cords and crank 'em up tight. They simulate high-back ski boots, and really let you lean back. These help immensely, and allow me to ski any slope that I could with my normal ski gear. And also, leather climbing boots work just as well as plastic ones.**

If Mitch Merriman reads this, is the photo of the Washington Pass peaks a polaroid emulsion transfer? It certainly looks like it.

Not just ignorant, but racist. The Klickitat tribe is about as related to plains tribes as Britain is to Russia.

I think that climbing permits for Mt. Rainier might be a good idea, because overcrowding can be a big and disgusting problem. However, we should not have to PAY to climb the mountain. Because of ridiculous climbing fees, I never register with the rangers when I head up Rainier. It is stupid that a climber should have to sacrifice his/her safety (They won't rescue you if they don't know you're missing), in order to go climbing without paying.

Ever since I took my SLR to Bolivia, I decided that I would never take it climbing again (although I do still take it hiking and on some approaches). Not only is it heavy, but I'm afraid to keep it accessible for fear of harming it. The best climbing camera I have found is a Minox 35 GL (although on an unrelated point, its shutter has been screwing up lately). I think that it is the best balance between quality and weight. I set the aperture, and it sets the shutter speed. I set the focus just by distance estimation. Most importantly, it has a good wide-angle lens, and is very small and light. As for carrying systems, I use a little case that came with the camera. I custom sewed an adjustable strap on the back of the case, and use it to affixe the case directly to my harness. I use a simple cord around my neck in case I drop it. When I am not wearing a harness, I make my custom strap longer and attach it to my pack hip belt. When I did take my SLR climbing, I kept it in a big ole case around my neck, and clipped my pack's sternum strap over it so that it wouldn't swing as I walked.

The Ice Cliff Glacier was in excellent condition on Sunday, June 3. It has actually benefitted from the small snowpack, because there is a lot of ice to be climbed (like a normal August), but the bergshrunds are still easily crossed (like any spring). We went up the far left side of the glacier, and I would rate it AI3. The Couloir to gain the ridge crest was actually the best snow climb I have ever done, as about 500 ft. of 50-60 degree perfect neve. I would reccomend taking four ice screws, three 2 ft. pickets, and two just-in-case pins. By the way, the entire north side of the mountain has a bunch of snow on it (and some ice also formed in the last few days), so an attempt on the north ridge would be premature I think.

When I was learning to climb I once spent an entire day climbing Forbidden, tied only to the lower part of my BD alpine bod harness. Effectively, my security depended on two PLASTIC buckles. I even made four rappels this way; luckily I only weighed about sixty pounds.

Smoker, Yes, we summitted.

On Saturday, May 27, the upper portion of the Stuart Glacier Couloir was significantly melted out. A lot of loose rock was exposed that I believe would not normally be exposed for a few more months. A few large blocks that fell leave me wondering if I have to retire my rope. For those wondering about the North Ridge, it still had a bunch of snow on it; give it another couple weeks.

Whillans, The letter is on page 15 of the new ROCK & ICE (issue 109).

There is no practical reason for this post, but I have been curious for a while as to what the term "RP" stands for. (Yes, I know what RP's are, just not what the "R" and the "P" stand for.) Do any of you know?

Out of those devices I would definitely choose the silent partner. I have used my soloist a little, and frankly I don't trust it much. The fact that an upside-down fall would send you flying to the ground unhindered makes me a little bit scared. However, if you want to get some climbing in when your partners can't, I would not recommend climbing roped. I feel more comfortable free soloing a 5.2, than I do soloing a 5.8 with a soloist.

Have any of you ever considered or used a two person sleeping bag? I'm not talking about some system of zipping two bags together so that a couple can get cozy. I am instead thinking of an especially wide bag that one would share with his/her climbing partner. I'd imagine that it might appeal to those truly dedicated to going fast and light. Not only would it conserve body heat, but it would save the weight of a zipper and two sleeping bag sides. Although I am not particularly appealed to sleeping with my climbing partner, if a team is going fast and light then they will be wearing all of their clothing while sleeping anyways.

I climbed Huayna Potosi last June, but the entire time I was looking over at Tiquimani (spelling?). It is a beautiful mountain, 18,500 ft. high, and has probably been climbed about five times. It looks like there are many possible technical ice and rock routes on it.

The system of classes (1-5) denotes the exposure of a route, or whether or not a rope is generally used. The yosemite decimal system was originally designed to further divide the fifth class. I propose that all rock climbing ratings consist of an arabic numeral that shows the class, and a decimal that shows the technical difficulty of the climbing. For example, boulder problems would be rated 3.0-3.14d, rather than some funky 'V' or 'B' scale. High ball boulder problems (that some people would only climb with a rope) would be rated 4.0-4.14d. For example, The first pitch of the Great Northern Slab at Index is rated 5.0. Most people I know consider it to be closer to 5.3, but don't place protection anyway because it is not very exposed. I would rate it 4.3. Likewise, the crux moves on the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell would be rated 4.7 instead of 5.7, because they are right above a big flat ledge with dwarf pines on the right. It wouldn't be rated 3.7 because there is still the possibility of a tumbling fall to the left. Does anyone else agree that this system would be more logical? Does anyone else want to start using it?

I have recently come across the smallest diameter twin rope that I know of. According to Gripped magazine (Canada's Climbing Magazine), Mammut is now making a rope called the Twilight which is 7.5 mm and holds 19 UIAA twin falls. The high strength and small diameter is the result of teflon-coated fibers, which I assume work by decreasing the friction inside the rope.

Everyone went down to Smith this weekend, so I am looking for an experienced alpine ice and snow climber who is interested in attempting the North Face of Graybeard on Monday. I was thinking that we could get a late start on Sunday and just get past Granite creek, and ski up the trail to the base of the face. Climb, descend, ski out, and drive home on Monday. Unfortunately, precipitation is expected, but at least the freezing level is predicted to be down to 3000. If you are interested, e-mail me (colinhaley@home.com) or call me (206-232-1798) ASAP. [This message has been edited by Colin (edited 03-24-2001).]

The Descent off of Liberty Bell is simple and quick. From the summit, downclimb third class rock in a SW direction to a little ways passed the white friction slab. From here, down climb in a SE direction through a bunch of dwarf pines. You will find the obvious rap anchor above a big ledge. Make two obvious rappels straight down to the Liberty Bell-Concord Tower notch. The descent only requires 1 50m rope. The descent route approximately follows the South Face/Overexposure route.

Being a student I get the summer off, and being a climber I would like to spend as much of it as possible climbing. I am looking for a very commited alpine climbing partner who is either a student or has a job that lets him/her take long vacations. From about the tenth of June, to the tenth of August, I am hoping to alpine climb as much as possible. I know that there are tons of things to be done in the Cascades, but in reality one never gets as much climbing in if one stays at home. I am interested in road trips to the Tetons, the Bugaboos, and southern BC and Alberta in general. However, a more serious trip to Peru, Bolivia, Alaska, or BC's Coast Range is definitely an option. I know that this is a very specific request, but if you are capable of such trips this summer, e-mail me and let's start climbing now.

If it's sunny in Seattle, go to Index. If it's cloudy in Seattle, go to Leavenworth. If it's pouring in Seattle, go to Vantage.

Perhaps there is some obvious flaw in this idea that I am completely overlooking, but I haven't thought of it yet. Vapor-barrier socks make your feet warmer, vapor-barrier liners make you warmer (in your sleeping bag), so why wouldn't wearing latex gloves underneath one's gloves increase warmth without decreasing dexterity?

I second Rodchester's statement. Perhaps it is for a good cause, but I thought this site was above advertising. Get it off.