David_Parker

I bought the Olympus Stylus 300 and really like it especially the fact it is weatherproof! I found it for $300 plus shipping at dbuys.com. Whatever you buy, expect to spend up to $100 more for accessories such as extra battery, larger meg card, DC adapter, reader or what ever else you might need. I think 3.2 megapixels is more than adequate, but they make a Stylus 400 with 4.? megapixels if that is a concern. As far as shutter delay, if you puch the shutter 1/2 way and hold it, it fires quickly when you go the rest of the way.

I have ordered things from the internet mostly with great success and minimal problems. Here's a tip, only use internet companies that publish a customer service number and call it before you order to verify that you get a real person. If so, you will increase the liklihood of NOT having problems if they screw up your order. Another tip is don't believe the published prices. When I bought my digital camera, I needed a bunch of accessories. I asked "is that your best price" and they almost instantly gave me a much lower one. Maybe it was because I bought the camera and was adding on right then and they won't negotiate if you order just that accessory, but don't forget to ask!

SH: yeah, you probably have it better than I. It has been a long time since I read it and I made the post at work and the book is at home. Sorry! But I do believe Art was basically a "body" at the time and and they were lowering him and it was during this time when they were all getting straightened out that an avalanche swept him away, which probably saved the entire team by not having to deal with him anymore in a raging storm. Did I get that right. Great story and I think I will re-read it. All those guys were real heroes in my mind.

Depends how far and how fast you've gone before you are in correct position to apply ice tool to slope. Even this is potentially lethal, depending on runout zone.

It seems to me that the famous incident on K-2 with Pete Schoening, Dee Molenaar, etc. involved a quickly placed boot-axe belay which saved the day for the whole big rope-team. I believe it was none other than local climber Dee Molenaar that made the save and you can read about it in "K2, The Savage Mountain" There were two ropes, but they became entwined and there was a certain amount of luck that they all lived. Also at the time they were coming DOWN with Art Gilkeys dead body. This is quite a different scenario than a fall while going up. I contemplated this very thing while tied to my Partner while climbing N. Face couloir of Buckner a few years ago. When we headed up, we expected to put in intermediate pro. But as it turned out, we were both totally comfortable climbing 50'-60' slope without the pro. It was a matter of us both wanting to keep moving and not deal with putting in picketts or putting the rope away. Plus, we never really knew if we were going to put something in if it was really available. I agree that a picket in the case of 150 feet of rope out between climbers is pretty worthless after the leader puts it in and has moved 30 feet passed it. What went through my head was that the second should have a system where he can quickly escape the rope and let his partner fly by and die by himself if he can't self arrest. One dead is better than two. Still, if the second falls, the leader has a chance of catching the second if the rope is fairly taut between them and he always has at least one tool in. So basicaly it's a crap shoot. I'll let some mathematician play with the odds. Basically, it amazes me the that 1/2 experienced so called "ice climbers" are not willing to solo. Like Alpine K said, if they don't feel comfotable, maybe they shouldn't be there. All ice climbers climbing with TWO tools should consider their tools as PRO period. Leave the rope in the pack, climb side by side, talk to each other and enjoy the comraderie of climbing together!

I just bought the Mt. Hardwear Phantom at REI. Retails at $240.00 but I had a 25% off coupon and some dividend $. It is a 30' bag, 800 fill down and weighs 1lb-5 oz. I double checked on a scale and it was correct. 3/4 zipper. Have not used it yet so can't comment yet. I usually carry a down belay jacket so I figure to have good range with this bag.

I always liked the formatt of the Smith Rock Guide. The older blue Wasatch Rock guide was physically a piece of shit. It broke into pieces immediately. The Ice Climbing guide to the Canadian Rockies by Jo-Jo is tops. An unbelievable amount of info in a well designed formatt and sturdy, correctly sized book.

The real answer depends a lot on what YOU need to put in your pack. Some people have very light weight sleeping bags that compress very small. Do you use a tent or bivy sack, what kind of sleeping pad. I suggest you put all the stuff you'll need for a typical climb for 3 days, put it in a duffle and then go stuff a few packs you seem interested in. Most packs will compress, so the trick is to buy one just big enough to carry what you need without going too big so you put more stuff than you Really need into the pack.

I use evergreen branches although some partners give me shit for hacking up the trees.

If I'm not there by 7:00, call the coast guard. Full on white caps out there. It's gonna be wild!

Does anyone know where the closest public boat landing is to Ballard without going through any locks? Also, anyone in Kitsap wanting to go to the slide show and pub club after is welcome to join me by boat. My alternative is to park at Bell street marina and hitch a ride from someone. I'll trade boat ride for car ride! This is not definite yet. Read my signature and you'll understand.

I thought it got done last year already. Personally, I'd rather enjoy it more by going slower. What's up with the speed thing; just another reason to chest beat? Who cares?

Did I miss something? How did you break your legs? Sorry to hear that but you seem to have maintained some reasonable perspective and some cheer in spite of it all! Here's to a recovery!

FYI, I own the exclusive rights to calling pub club at the alki. I will choose when the forecast is right and I can come by boat! The reason I say this is because it seems difficult to get repeats there because many don't seem to like it. Unfortunately, I can't go tonite, although last night was fun going to the Boatshed in Bremerton. Maybe you should drink in T-Town tonite since there is more drinking in Seattle on Thurs!

I'm from Montana and I just bought a boat. Hey Bug, when we goin' H2-O skiing???

My wall goes up 8 ft and then 45 deg overhang (12/12 pitch roof) for another 8 ft. I've manufactured wood holds for drytooling but am not afraid to hook on the plastic either. You can also just drill holds in the plywood. One word of CAUTION!!!! Wood is sensitive to moisture levels and therefore expands and contracts. A hold put on in winter will be a spinner in summer! Be sure to retighten/check holds all the time. A spinning hold will put your adze or hammer through your forehead!

You forgot the "sunny" side of the Alps and the country with the longest east/west amount of them....Italy. If you like hordes of people, lining up for climbs, unreliable weather, lots of attitude, go to Chamonix. If not, check out the Dolomites.

There's always the pendulum; people don't like all bolts, some bolts, no bolts. Others feel trees should be left totally alone, pruned occasionally, cut down. It seems AK was talking about pruning, not cutting down an entire tree. Well we do that all through the National Forest, Parks etc. It's called trail maintenance! I would rather have Kurt do it than anybody else. I trust his professionalism. He is obviously an advocate of the environment because he values the time he spends in the wilderness. That doesn't mean some tasteful improvment of a developed climbing area is bad. I personally don't appreciate the total hands off attitude because I find it hypocritical and unrealistic. Kurt's pendulum seems to be somewhere in the middle and I respect that. Sometimes its easier to ask for forgiveness than permission. GO FOR IT KURT!

Here's some photos from our ski on my son Jordan's 8th birthday on May 11, 2003:

Deal, but I might have to smoke you out to change yer 'tude about the Olympics. Not all are babies and I rather enjoy them. Go solo Constance and get back to me about your "experience".

Nice photo! Banana, since you appear to be new here, you might want to post some of your climbing experience. I still have yet to do cruiser and I'd be interested in doing it, but not this weekend.

Man, I love that Euro shit when you can pound on the summit after a climb After climbing the highest mountain in Greece, Yugoslavia, Austria, I pulled into Germany to climb the highest there. I skipped it for exactly that reason. Didn't think it worthy if you can ride a friggin tram to the top! Went hiking up this really cool slot canyon thingy instead. Being in Garmisch was almost like being in the States. Must be our military presence there.

Back in Maine when I lived there, I listened to WBLM radio....Broadcasting for the Legalization of Marijuana. Maine was one of the few states that decriminalized it a long time ago. How many states now?

Canada moves to lower pot penalties...... http://msnbc.com/news/918928.asp#BODY

On wednesday, we reached the lake around 6:15 am and it was above freezing. Darin and I postholed in mushy snow circumnavigating the lake. It remained warm and the snow was soft and the ice plastic. But there is plenty of ice (thickness wise, but narrow in spots) and it should be fine even if it's above freezing. BTW, it was these excellent snow conditions that made me take note it was skiable if you dare!