David_Parker

The City Council on Bainbridge has elected to veto the Patriot Act as have many other cities across the nation. Reps Jay Inslee and Norm Dicks have also voted to remove the section about searching homes without a warrant or prior notification. The PA played right into the hands of the terroists. They want us running scared and congress cow-towed to them. What a bunch of wussies.

If it's not raining, why even wear a gortex shell. If it's windy, there are plenty more breathable fabrics that cut the wind. If it's raining, none of the shit works when it's wet and you're going to be turning around and heading down if it's raining really hard. I think Marc Twight's book Extreme Alpinism makes some excellent points about all this shit. Also, when you have a pack on your back, you're blocking a huge area that could ventilate. I use a lightweight (5 oz) coated nylon shell (no liner) with excellent ventilation in the chest area and it cost $5.00 at a thrift store. I'm with Trask about the hood thing. Take your friggin' hat off if you need to breathe! I rarely wear a hat, just a headband for my ears, even on cold days ice climbing or skiing. If I need a little more warmth, I pull up my hood and that is plenty. The "miracle" is in your head and not the fabric. Use your head, not your wallet!

BD is emailing me quickly, but I'm on round 3 with them. Here's my latest... "Hmmm, a one year warantee on a piece of aluminum? Makes no sense unless you claim the aluminum becomes weaker with age. Heck, I'd be happy with you just sending me the section that broke. Many colleagues of mine seem to think BD has always been "really good" about taking care of stuff like this. I don't want to be a whiner, but I didn't loose or break the pole myself. In fact I probably wouldn't complain much at all if you didn't charge such a rediculous price for lightweight aluminum and bungee cord. $60 plus shipping....that's as much as a treking pole! Wanna keep a climber happy....send him a new pole for a tent he raves about and probably has influenced many sales! Wanna see a climber say bad things about BD, then don't. I won't resort to robbery!" While a treking pole works, I don't use a treking pole all the time, and often they are not tall enuff. They also don't break down as small as the provided pole. I won't pay $60 for a pole. I'll figure out something else first. Thanks for the REI suggestion. They do have a good repair dept. Anyone have an old pole they don't need anymore?

In fairly high winds, the megamid was doing great until the pole broke. I emailed BD and they want $60 plus shipping for a friggin' piece of aluminum! I can't even get only the section that broke. Personally, I struggle paying that much for a pole. I know ski poles and other such things work, but I also use the shelter sea kayaking where I don't need ski poles. Anyone have an old pole or suggestion?

AF, I found a great little case at freddy meyer for $10.00 that works great. I tied a knot in the strap to shorten it and carry it over my shoulder on all my climbs. (see photo in Princess thread under BC climbs) I added a little key ring to the strap and bought a little plastic biner so when I pull it out I can drop it and it won't tumble down the mountain. (Look for photos soon from Monarch and Princess). The case is made by TEK (tamarack) and has a little pocket for extra battery/card/etc. A camera in your pack is worthless and this little system keeps me shooting in the places you wouldn't dream of taking your pack off. I am happy with my Olympus and you will be too!

The steepest hiking trail to date I've ever been on is the Lake Constance trail. Since I was an english major and suck at calculus someone calculate this one. 3400 vert ft in 2 miles! BTW, it's degreEs, not degress!

Finally, PHOTO'S HERE: http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b325aea20552

I dunno, but it seems a little late season for the Elin-Wa traverse where I believe the snow on the ridge is helpful. Probably not much left now. I'd go with the climb of Washington and learn the descent so when you do the traverse you know how to get down, especially if weather moves in. Go here to see a photo from this spring from top of Elinor with the ridge going to Wash in background (including weather clouds). http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB6&Number=188270&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

ski poles are aid

Headcount is just a guestimate. Anyone who reads this between now and then is welcome. This is an OPEN invitation and the more the merrier! Bring on the kids!

Maybe you can climb Colonial as a warm up.

I was going to suggest Alki for pub club so I could come by boat, but I guess they did it there last week so that aint gonna fly. I have a realy busy week and then leave for 2 week climbing trip. For me it will have to be when I get back. Sorry to dangle the carrot and then pull it away. Good to know there are H2O skiiers out there though! Hope you have wetsuits!

I'm up for that weekend as a start. If the real one gets boycotted, we can do it again and let all the kids get the free gear. Imagine if it were all kids and dabbling spouses on the top ropes and all the kids got free rock shoes at the end! We could even hang them at the top and if they slap the chain, they get the shoes! After all, they are the future for retailers! Also, everyone should bring all their kids rock shoes for a big swap. Just curious, this doesn't conflict with the start of school does it? ( Even though it's the weekend.)

I was pretty much thinking 11-worth. Good campgrounds, easy access to plenty of top-roping. Mazama works because I have a place for everyone, but not so many options for kids to climb.

I like to waterski, have a boat and nobody who likes to go! Anyone else out there that likes to rip up the glass? Willing to travel for evening sessions on your boat too.

I have thoroughly enjoyed the past two rope-ups, but frankly I'm a bit overwhelmed with the direction it is heading. I applaud Beck for jumping in with all the organization he's done to date to bring in sponsorships, free beer and raffles. Still, it seems it risks losing the original flavor and becoming something I'm not so sure I'm interested in. I am still inclined to attend, but also have another idea. It seems there are plenty of us out there that have kids who like to climb. How does the idea of a rope up for kids sound. Same idea as original rope up, but focused on less beer and more climbing. It would be a great opportunity for parents with kids to meet and form friendships for future climbing outings with kids. For me it seems like when I drag my kid out, he'd often have more fun if it weren't just daddy to climb with. I have talked with other people with kids about getting together, but it just doesn't seem to happen spontaneously. It could be the same weekend but a different campground for obvious reasons or a different weekend altogether so it wouldn't be a conflict at all for those who'd like to do both. This could even expand into something that works for those of us who have spouses who only dabble in climbing and wouldn't mind getting out on the rock too. Lets hear who's interested!

Sorry if this is a little late or repetative; I've been gone a week. Having the priveledge to be the occaisional partner of Wayne I can say he is not a chestbeater and only guilty of being overly excited about sharing his successes with his friends. Since this is a climbers board and Wayne probably considers us all his friends, his report is not chestbeating. Chestbeating is telling someone who doesn't know much about what he just did how awesome it was. I'm sure Wayne's co-workers have no idea what he just did. If you're not impressed with this accomplishment, you too don't know much about what these 3 just did. It will be interesting to see when it will be repeated. I can venture to say it will be another local climber. The fact Wayne hooked up with Colin and Marko took away the liklihood of it happening soon as they were "racing" for it. This is not a climb where you just pick a time and fly in from out of town and wip it off. Many attempts will no less be made in the years to come, but it could potentially take on the same impressive stature similar to that of the original Ptarmigans route. In the years to come, I predict there will be many more failures than successes on this route. This is the Stanley Cup of the North Cascades; congrats to Colin, Marko and Wayne for the championship! And like the Stanley Cup, it still stands to be won by others, year after year. Who's gonna get it next?

No personal beta. Theres a couple older gentleman who live here on Bainbridge that I think have climbed most of the Olympic peaks. I recall him saying Mt Tom, a sattelite peak of the greater Olympus massif involved bushwacking. That's about all I know. Go do it and tell us! I could ask for beta if you really need it, but don't you think it would be much more of an adventure without it!

For any reading this, here's my opinion on how to do it from Rainy Pass. Drive to Colonial Campground late night before Day 1 and camp. Day 1; Get up and drive to trailhead and hike all the way to a bivy spot above lower cliff bands. BTW, if you guys had continued up to the snowbridge, you can get over lower cliff bands on far right. Day 2; climb route from base camp, go lite and fast, simul as much as possible. Do not rap from summit block, rather descend to black notch and rap from there into SE Couloir. 2 65' raps with one rope. Descend SE couloir, NOT Bedayan (sp?) couloir!!!! Return to base camp via Storm King col (one rap to glacier) If time, pick up camp and descend to Grizzly camp for comfy bivy and even a fire if you're so inclined. Day 3; enjoy the leisurely 15 mile hike out. We dubbed the approach/deproach "up hill both ways", but I found it an enjoyable trip with even a slight side trip to check out the deep canyon of Bridge creek. I think the whole ferry, bus, schedule probs, money thing would detract from the true essence of doing this exceptional route in a remote area. It's an easy 3 day climb and a real classic.

For me, the crux was getting past the goat at the start of the rock climbing from the pass. He was snorting and pawing the air and put his head down, threatening to charge me. I had put my weapon (ski pole) away so felt defenceless. We cautiously passed each other and he meandered off eventually after having followed us 3/4 of the way up Avalanche Canyon from the lake.

If you died, what would your friend do? Do the same!

My solo was a few years ago and I used the terrible traverse. Wayne and I just did the west ridge (see TR)and got a look down the N. Chute on the way down and it looks good. I did not bring crampons for the west ridge but you should have them for the north chute. The finger traverse is no big deal and doesn't require a rope. You have bomber hand holds and you just need to pay attention to your feet. It's only about 30 feet.

Anyone contemplating Constance, the north chute is ALWAYS the best way up as long as you can see snow in it at the top. Don't let the scree fan at the bottom disuade you. As of today, it is still climbable. Just remember there is about 40 feet of down climbing from the top on the other side before you go up the gully to the notch. The first chute up is actually more complicated route finding, especially if you've never been on the mountain before. It is also way looser bullshit scree and loose rocks. And if it helps, the word descriptions in the Olympic Climbers Guide totally suck ass. I finally came down the finger traverse after never attempting it on the way up because the words made no sense even standing there looking at the route on a clear day. It was pretty straight forward. The finger traverse should be your summertime/dry conditions route; the terrible traverse more of the winter/ snow covered rock route (as long as avy conditions are safe). BTW, from car to summit is over 7,000 vert!

And don't forget your Mt. Bikes for the ride up and down the road from the washout. If the west-ridge route wasn't classic enough when Kearney wrote his book, it is now with this added dimension! PS. I LOVE that trail up to lake Constance!! That was my 5th time!

Ahhhh, I put that stick there and scratched the arrow and the word "access" with my ski pole last August (02) on the way out from Fury. I'm surprised it lasted through the winter! Seems like people are finding it and thereby the trail to the river is becoming more defined. It was a bush wack when we did it. I maintain that in situations like this, it is better that everyone leaves the trail at the same place vs. everyone stumbling around all over the place trying to figure it out. Over all much less destructive to the forest.