dberdinka

Was this person really a "guide"?

Check with users Lunger and Sam Boyce. They did something up there last summer? And we’re at the time unaware of the BB lines as well. They may have a copy. Weird how that guidebook seems to have totally vanished. Had all kinds of random Doorish routes and what not in it.

You might try to track down a copy of Bryan Burdo's old WA-Pass guidebook. He did several routes on that feature (if I'm recognizing it correctly as above the big waterfall east of the pass). I know that a couple other CC users went up there a couple years ago and climbed something.

Those are quite the photos.

Missed this. Very cool. Its been too long since I've done a self propelled journey from home to the mountains.

Also went here twice in the pre-Instagram era. Beautiful and quiet out there. Wonder how different it is now?

Tell us your story Manheartmountain? Soloing west face sounds spicy!

Seems like the ultimate winter plum! WI3 on the dagger?!

Don’t think so. Everything but polish looked thinner than typical to me.

If anyone is thinking of Colfax with this high pressure. As of 1/13 the Cosley-Houston is not formed, though the Polish Route looks like it may have connected. North and east side of Lincoln look like the future of local Alpinism.

gawd I sorta want these....

Despite seeing a fair bit of references to the last pitch as "the ragged edge", I seem to recall that pitch 4 was what the name originated from. There are or were a number of spots on that pitch where you could see down through the cracks formed by those large blocks to the slabs below and I definitely remember being somewhat nervous moving across them for the first time. How long had they been hanging there and how long would they remain? 10 years apparently! Not very long in the scheme of things. Considering that they've probably been hanging there for 1000's of years I have to think that climbers standing at the belay created the additional strain that eventually sent them free (honestly that seems hard to believe but the timing is peculiar). If you look on MP you can find a photo of a guy trundling a loose block off that belay ledge in the summer of 2023. I definitely had cleaned out all loose rock that existed at the time so I'd guess these blocks started shifting at least a year before they finally ripped. I'm curious how stable the remaining massive blocks are that make up P4 (can be seen in the wide angle photo of your belayer). As kmfoerster points out maybe the edge is about to get a lot edgier! seems like someone with the appropriate tools and skills should move that belay anchor 4 feet higher to both make it more comfortable and to better protect the second on the traverse.

I don't think a Kloke Peak summit registry is going to get too full anytime in the near to distant future.

29 days in the park. 32 home to home. I would not go for less, weathers just too variable and the approach/exit eats up days. Supposedly July is drier than August, but after a week-plus of rain we arrived at tideline on the 1st of August to endless blue sky as we exited the park. Doing it again I’d go 2nd week of July till as long as I could stay. We had food and gear cached in early April by snowmobile. Saved a lot of energy and time. Then did double carries out. Following is rough conversion to USD. Plane tickets are spendy. $1800 each. Shipping 150 lbs of gear via Canada Post was $600. Cached gear was $1200 total. Boat rides about $650. Park fees about $175 each. So say $3.3k. USD each. You can camp for free on the outskirts of Pangnirtung, which we did in the way in, or stay at Fjordview B&B for about $160 USD each which we did on the way out. The final leg of the flight from Iqaluit to Pangnirtung is frequently cancelled due to winds or low visibility. Which could get you stranded in one town or the other for multiple days. No camping in Iqaluit so be prepared to shell out for hotel rooms on the way in. Or to not get home on a schedule. It was bittersweet to exit during a great weather window but it did mean our flights weren’t cancelled. cost of living is crazy expensive in Baffin. A can of beans was $7. Once I converted everything’s price to “cans of beans” it seemed more reasonable. And bugs were non existent to minimal! Worse on warm, still days but hopefully you’re high in the mountains then.