layton

this was in the gear forum a minute ago.. my cam.

don't count on it

Feb 6th!

i think carolyn's trip to portland is probably over by now?

then buy me a new cam please

Should I sell it to Erik?

No one has pointed out in their sagely advice, that falling is fucking scary. It is very good to practice falling. If I fall on route, i actually climb better cuz I'm more relaxed cuz I know I'm not gonna die. Still pretty fucking scary though! It's not a natural thing your mind wants you to do

You use the rubberband to hold together the cam you dropped. It is best to do the repair while climbing right before placing the piece that you don't really need because gear serves no real purpose. It's just a mental piece anyway, and you're not going to fall, so it's best to waste as much time and energy as possible placing a piece of worthless pro. But if you did fall on the protection that you don't need to begin with it's going to fail anyway so it's best that it at least appear to be sound -- hence the use of the rubberband. I think I read that in the Freedom of the Hills too.

No Muffy, every piece of gear you put in should hold a fall until your next placement. The leader must not fall was outdated since the advent of dynamic ropes. If you're climbing within you limit, then your gear is just in case. But you should be climbing comfortably enough not to put in a crappy piece. If your climbing at or above your limit, then your gear had goddamn well better be designed to hold a fall. The only time you should be putting a shitty piece in is A.) that's all you got - good luck! B.) you're climbing at your limit, you think you're gonna blow and don't wanna fall and the only gear you can get in with your forearms screaming is a shitty piece to hold your wieght or catch a short fall. As for the rope drag self cleaning piece....unless the traverse is hard and a fall would hurt/kill you, you have to suck it up and run it out till the rope is running in more of a straight line. You should never expect your gear to clean itself. I'd throw a beer can at my partner if I saw him/her fucking around with that trick.

sure bro! Sat morn (better) or Fri night (ok).

#4 is from Sun Ribbon Arete on temple crag, CA #5 is from WA pass, climbers topping out on Concord

It's off the rack until further testing. Anywhere I can send it to be c heck out, or would that cost more than acutally replacing it?

Are we discussing the same subject Muffy? That didn't make a drop of sense. -on the alpine thing...I see. yeah gotta get something in to keep you on the mtn if a hold breaks. My point was that if the piece wasn't good (i.e. it would rip) then it won't do you any good if you fall on it. I don't think many of us put in totally shitty pieces on an alpine route w/so many cracks and shit to sling around so it's a moot point i guess.

my best trips have been in april and may

anyone? 1 day, 2 day.... (unless the alpine gets good which it won't)

no it's not. bad gear is worthless. I do agree w/your not all falls are alike scenario

"How tall are you private?" "5'9"" "I didn't know they could stack shit that high" what movie? -ez

agreed! those were the days. I can look the other way on the technical goofs like leading on TR. That whole scene when they're on the summit and Clint unknowingly hauled beer up the route on lead! Fucking a' classic. The whole climbing buddy thing between Clint and his friend was pretty realistic...,"Good to see you again..shit are we gonna drink a lot of beer!"

I agree w/Scott_Harpell. Pro is for falling on. You'll never climb hard unless you fall on your gear....of course unless the fall would hurt or kill you. Then your cams or pro won't do shit anyways which emphasises the point that gear is for falling on. If the gear won't take the fall then there was no reason to place it in the first place.

and the cracker's in the middle

Cascade Climbers Dot Com Where all the climbs go uphill, and all the posts go downhill

Wow. That's pretty fucked up I'll say. Yeah, go fly a kite turdgurgler

Seen on HerbertWest

you wouldn't know what to do with it