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Everything posted by layton
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Jordan got it right. Grizzley tower N.Face in the Needles. Save the hike,I scoped em ALL out. Garbage. The upper summit of I forget which one looked like two pitches of neat stuff, however. Does anyone have a close-up photo of the NE face of Tower by the way?
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It is in WA pass. It's the north face of Porcupine Peak. You will need bolts and that upper headwall is STEEP! Want to do a 1st ascent? Here are much much better alternatives (the would probably require bolts) Half Moon's N,E, and W.faces Cross over notch to the left Half Moon and drop down into the Big Kangaroo area. Shitloads of huge granite. N.face of Holliway N.faces of Ares tower area blah blah blah. get out and check stuff out. I didn't do any of these cuz they didn't have any lines that stuck out as going clean (I don't have a hand drill). I do have some secret stuff that I will use a handdrill on that looks better, however...
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sorry, I scanned this really really low-res.
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Here's one option (several) for the lower 1/3 hint: I thought this may have good ice in the winter Gi-fucking-ganticly too big image: And here is another shot of the top... Hint: note the See-tru couloir! neat-o
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Think I climb choss? What shitty looking route is shown here. Hints: 1)Pete Doorish 2)Grade IV 3)5.10 4)2 hours approach from car too small to see image way to fucking big image
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Dru, the photo is foreshortened. The route itself would be about 1500' I'll dig out a photo of the lower portion if I can find it.
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i may be down for going on friday
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no no no and no. no one will EVER guess
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Okay, the mountain has been climbed, but this SURE hasn't. This is also just the top of the mountain, there's 2/3 more down below. Near a road. In washington state. Hmmmmmm. What could this be?? 1st ascent goes to who can guess
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The photo looks better when you can see the whole thing. I took it with Lane's digi camera. I wish I had one since I started climbing. This came out good b/c I took like 30 photos of this climb and lane took just as many. That's Lane Brown on the W.Ridge of Pigeon in the Bugaboos. A very very easy but totally classic climb. Good climb to do on the way back from Becky-Choinard to gape and ponder. I wish I was living in this photo forever, things were happy in the mountians. Aw fuck, back to the desperation of everyday life. As Anton Chekov wrote, "Any idiot can face a crisis, it's this day to day living that wears me out."
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i wanted this item the moment I saw it. great fucking idea! just hope the knife doesn't open when you're hanging on the rope trying to get the nut out! YIKES!
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So you are saying that a pocket rocket with a pot melts snow faster and weights less? Can you post your test results? What temps and elevations did you do your tests at?
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Rock: Bertolius rt on Nooksack Tower Hyperspace Girth Pillar NE Buttress Davis Pk NW Face SEWS anything in the cathedral Hidden Pillar on Bardean N.Face Direct on Vienesse Mt.Goode Ice: top secret
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ONE MORE THING!!! Please PM me if a route you like isn't in a select guide. I still need more route ideas for the guidebook I'm trying to write....which is expected to be out sometime this decade.
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I second The Bone at Castle Crag in worthLeavin' I gotta disagree with the W.Butt of Blueberry hill. I was very dissapointed, BUT the other mixed and bolted climbs looks AWESOME! Can't wait to try those. Looks like I gotta step it up and do some of these recomended climbs.
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Here's a photo of someone sending Layton Falls definately a must do
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These are all must do's. There are other that are good, but these are GREAT (yes there are WAY more than 5) Springbok Arete on Les Cornes Back of Beyond Buttress S.Ridge Ingalls N.Ridge Forbidden Dreamer W.Ridge North Twin Outer Space SEWS E.Butt Direct Liberty Crack Slesse NE Butt NEWS NW Corner and W.Face Action Potential on Burgandy Spire E.Face Chianti (rebel yell) Liberty Ridge Bale Kramar and Reg Rt in L-worthless Synchronicity in Lilloeet Tripple Couliors Central Couloir on Joffre Lexington E.Face Minuteman E.Face Backbone ridge Cuthroat E.Face couloir Spindrift Couloir Clean Break Prussik s.face and w.ridge all routes N.Face Direct on Bear Yak Check Zero Gulley Ruth Mtn Coleman Demming on Baker Sisiphus on Goat Wall Colchuck Bal Rock w.face Davis Holland/Lovin arms Zebra zion and w.face var on monkey face Dod's Jam and young warriors at beacon Unfinished Symphony, Grand Wall, Great Game, Rock on, Exasperator, all the routes at the lower Malamute, Penny Lane, Crime of the Century, and lots more at Squamish
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Glad you had fun, C-dawg.
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speaking of classics, what the hell happened to my girls of cascadeclimbers.com photo contest thread that had like 6,000 views. i tried to find it, but i think it has be permenantly ERASED... we got some good shots after MUCH begging
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pile you shit in a big heap and ask these questions to yourself. 1. do i NEED this. (ex, if there will be water avail, should I bring a stove. why not just eat non cook food..do I need my pack lid, two biners on each sling, do i really need two ropes or should I just commit!) 2. can this be lighter (ex, my sleeping bag/tent system got reduced last year w/a Moonstone Lucid bag, a betalite tarp, a bibler winter bivy, and a fucking thing yellow "hard-man" foam pad) 3. what can I double up a use with (gear for a spoon, nalgene for a mug, blah blah blah) 4. do I really need to go so light? I asked myself this question this year, now I bring a ton of shit into basecamp (if camping) and get a good meal and good nights sleep. 5. will ligher = faster? (i.e. how fast will I be approaching or downclimbing with my flip-flops..for me, pretty fast, for others, not so fast. will I climb fast after I just froze my ass of at the belay or last nights bivy? How fast will I climb if my rack is skimpy and I gotta decide to pro it up/put in more belays vs. a heavy rack and constant movement, and how much faster will I climb when I have 3 cams clipped to one biner on the rack, how much faster will belay change-overs be if we just have one pack vs. the leader has a pack too and can eat and drink while belaying up the 2nd. does my reverso save time as well as weight. why not carry a belay plate like a gi-gi and an atc. bring the 2nd up and put him on lead belay with the atc, this way the 2nd won't have to bother with clipping in while you switch up your reverso.) just some thoughs
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golly! i didn't know my post would ignite such topic. I'll have to check out stoneworks after nov. I like the prg enough to get a 10 pass card after my membership expires.