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Everything posted by layton
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awesome! man, am i jealous
- 45 replies
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- iceclimbing
- north cascades
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(and 2 more)
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awesome darin. Justin and I have tried approach the route w/no ice a couple times now...glad to see it was in for you.
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You wanted to climb that, you said so. anything object with mass can go downhill.
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no, i'm pretty sure we got the FA on hood
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what the hell does this have to do with my dating life? i'm talking about post alpine climb activities when there's still lots of day to spare. anyway, i went for a hike then a bike ride then studied at a coffee shop.
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same conditions as last week as far as we were concerned. stuff doesn't usually melt away that fast, and finding ice this year hasn't followed that logical recipe. worth taking the chance. you can't fail unless you try
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I did the 1st ascent of the downclimb of the Nose of El Capitan today. Some of the seconding was extrodinarily difficult and a few whippers were taken and precious feet that was made in the falls had to be descended by climbing back up to the gear, removing it, and taking another whipper to the next piece. I usually am always pyched to be the second while doing a downclimbing ascent. You just get so focused and scared too thinking, "i hope that next peice the leader placed is good!" My partner did some AMAZING seconds after all my leads on top-rope lower. Kudos to ya buddy! We broke it up in blocks so we could rest by leading and hauling our bag down the cliff. One of the key elements in down seconding is ALWAYS find a handhold before you reach for that desperate foot! We topped out on the descent in 4 days and celebrated at our high camp at camp 4.
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Marcus Donaldson and I finally climbed the last of the unclimbed volcanoes, marking the 1st ascent of Mount Hood. Hopefully future generations will follow.
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jesus dude....uh...i'm worried about you
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do you... -check you email like you check your fridge constantly like food will magically appear if you keep opening it -finally read the olympic mtn forum for the 1st time -post a TR asap -HATE THE SUN with all your heart -Wish it would start raining immediatly -Hope noone else got out -get manic depressive, then look at guidebooks to ease the pain of mtn separation -are exicted for about 10 seconds to be home -push the messagse button on the machine even though it says zero -dump all your shit in a big festering pile with wet socks, fermenting drink mix, and uneaten salami on the bottom of the pile to deal with the night before the next climb -post this email -HATE EVERYONE who is going about their day outside, walking aroudn smiling about how nice it is outside while they drink their Venti lattes -go in the closet, drink beer, and read childrens books with the shades pulled tight -wish you stopped at the grocery store that was easily on the way home -wonder what store all your old girlfriends are shopping in with their boyfriends currently -wonder what other people do on a weekend??? what do people do? -wish you did those dishes and laundry -wonder what's on the tube? -enjoy and refreshing ice cold Pepsi!! Ah Pepsi, the taste that truly satisfies! Pepsi, the choice of the neXt generation! ahhhhh the post climb depression! how sweet it is
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jodop once pointed out a phone pole swath through the trees covered in snow at night and said, "dude that looks like a sweet coulior" and now has become a running joke. join in. dude, sweet couloir. anything you could roll up on your side probably isn't much fun to slog up. i'm gonna buy you an incinometer for whatever stupid holiday you unbaptised heathen canadians are celebrating next.
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this knot is ez to fuck up so i never use it. takes too long, too much hand-eye-brain co-ordination.
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stop packing, it melted out during the last week. it's a sweet hike though (5 grand to the base)! good views of more of the same!!! p.s. there is bare rock on the trail almost the whole way up to 9000'!!! Meadows said they probably won't be open by weeks end. can't wait till sept when it's a big pile of turd and mass wastes after the 1st heavy rain. maybe it'll put out the fires while the entirety of oregon, wa, and ca are burning. oh, and bring a basket of jo's n' chicken strips to put under the warming lamps atop the cascade express lift building. makes a great tanning bed too.
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of course, Anyone use the new 5.10 guide tennies? $$$, but look pretty good.
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addidas bali is what i'm gonna test almost feel like slippers, very comfy, seems sturdy, and ultra light
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those weren't the tevas i saw. and the mad rocks are on sale at sierra t.p. for very cheap
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The soles of the superfly are way better than the exum ridge and are lighter = better approach shoe. i'd take em on anything that didn't involve strap on crampons. still, they will fall apart on you after 1 season of heavier use, 2 seasons of occasional use. the exums will also fall apart on you. The D7's hike and climb great, but aren't super light. also the heel tends to get chewed up quickly and causes blisters, and the stiching on the sides of the shoes falls apart quickly. good for strap on crampons. so far the older version of the boulders have been my fav shoes, wish they still made them. the mad rock looks great for the price, i'd get those. the new lighter garmont also look pretty good. i'm testing out an addidas approach shoe that looks friggin awesome, can't wait to slog in them. i'll give feedback when I've used them on something significant. Teva makes a super light shoe i saw at REI, i'd like to test those too. finally Nike always seems to produce a great shoe every couple years, but then stops making them.
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i've done the approach from the ruth glacier 5 times and it was in terrible avy shape each time (ie, actively avalanching). i guess you can be flown right to the base of it, but that would seriously limit your options cuz there's lots of other stuff to do.
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thanks for bringin' that up Fern!
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sweet
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did you see any ice?
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barf
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How many water ice lines are in, in the Cascades? *DELETED*
layton replied to dberdinka's topic in Climber's Board
why did you delete your post of the water ice lines on Colfax peak? -
first winter ascent Stuart's complete N Ridge in Winter
layton replied to Marko's topic in Alpine Lakes
i want a colin and marko bobble head doll for my dashboard- 64 replies
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- alpine lakes
- mt stuart
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(and 1 more)
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fuck necro in his bitch ass a-hole!!!