layton

After going over topos with Lane, who did the 1st ascent of both april insanity and iron maiden with Wayne, we figured this is probably (probably) a 1st ascent. Our route goes between those two climbs. I guess we have to decide on a name. 4/26/05- I edited this TR with a new name "bitchin' camero" and downgraded the crux to 5.9 4/27/05-edited once again. We did "Rime Dog" Sorry for the confusion if anyone cares

thanks! i got a Dell for $850 with all the goodies.

too late, i got a dell. i'll get an apple when i have more than Fin aid to pay for shit. total price 850 for my requirements

just in case marcus is reading this. when i said he wanted to quit, he really didn't want to quit, he just stated on the ride home that's how he felt, but had NO intention of doing so and rather forcefully shoved me that rack with the, "yeah, this sucks total ass, but you better lead this next pitch and if you mention bailing i will make things much more painful t han they already are" expression that transended words.

Found one of those on the NF inspiration! sorry the pic is so damn big and poorly scanned

Climb: Illumination Rock-Rime Dog 3rd ascent III 5.9 mixed 200m 4/24/04 Date of Climb: 4/24/2005 Trip Report: Edit: I've edited this thing twice now. 1st we thought we did Iron Maiden, then according to sources we did an FA, but Wayne corrected us since he's done all the routes on I-rock, and I guess we did the 3rd ascent of Rime Dog Finally, after a record number of failures due to weather, conditions, gear, time, etc...Marcus Donaldson and I were finally able to unleash the fury -which was well pent up from our almost weekly forrays into failure. Despite a 60% chance of snowstorms and even t-storms, Marcus and I drove up to Timerbline Lodge below Mt Hood arrive at a little after 5am. We could see a nice storm cloud growing above the summit of Hood and the wind was whippin'. The worst part of the slog up to Illumination Rock is havign done it before and remembering how long and boring that approach is. The mountain definately seems closer than it is, so it took us about 3 hours from starting to skin up the slope to being on belay. I am a terrible skiier so I left my skiis at the top of the upper Palmer lifts. This was a mistake and a blessing (more later). The route we were attempting starts left of the South Chamber up a series of gullies and headwalls. It looks like a ridge climb when viewed from the side, so it's pretty interesting to find gullies on a rather improbable looking line. The ice climb, "March Madness" was almost ready to climb (on the east face -a 1.5 pitch wi4) but was pretty thin and the ice looked very very very shitty. It wasn't even an option as we only brought one 17 cm screw anyways. I dug out a little platform and belayed Marcus up the 1st pitch. I wish I could say how hard it was or if it was good or not, but 2nding it, i got my ass fully handed to me. Unbelievable amounts of spindrift from above and from the howling wind completely blinded me. I mean i could not see anything. Snow and ice collected behind my belay parka (which i never took off througout the whole day) and gave me ice-cream headaches while i tried to claw my way up the pitch. None of the "ice" or rime would hold a stick. The rime would just collapse or chunk off, holding neither pick nor screw. In fact, during the whole climb neither of us got a single solid pick placement on the already marginal amount of ice and rime on the route. What we did have was tons of powder snow over rock and slab. Needless to say i was not too excited by the time i reached the end of the ropestrecher pitch. I was freezing and already covered in snow from head to toe. He wanted to quit when he reached the belay and knew i would feel the same by the time i reached it. But we had committed to doing a route together this winter and this was our final opportunity to do one. I took the rack and led out, just going through the motions of climbing, hoping that would psych me up again. His statement of, "hey, put a piece in quickly, i don't think this anchor will hold" didn't help much. I climbed up a pitch and put in a belay where i thought the route should go. I didn't really know b/c i couldn't see jack shit. I got about one second of vision between numerous bouts of furious blinking. Marcus's turn again. I put the belay directly under a rock headwall. Immediately above loomed a groove or offwidth looking section that went up about 50 feet into what looked like more headwall and rime gargoyles. Marcus did an amazing lead, and i could hear him talking to himself (saying very bad things) as he loudly grunted his way up. I climbed up and was very impressed. It was about hard 5.9 climbing with tools and crampons. I had to chimney, drop knee, layback, and handjam with extremely shitty feet (i.e. no feet). Then a run out tip-toe traverse on slab with quite the drop to another don't fall on me belay on the arete of a snow fluting. This 50meter pitch was nothing like Wayne or Lane's description of this climb as there was no "nice water ice" climbing and "easy 5.7". Either we were off route or the character was drastically different with no ice and full blizzard spindrift conditions. My next lead was a tight chimeny with shitty unusable rime gargoyles on my right and a closed seam of crappy rock on my left...all covered in powerder snow. I lived up that pitch and made it to the summit ridge after some very exciting bouts of gear placement. The rock ran out of crack features and the snow wasn't solid enough for a picket. I dug and dug for gear and tried about twenty differnt picked placements. Finally one picket lodged between some rocks under the powerder and held a pull. I piled more snow on it and jumped up and down to help pack it in. I put my pack on top of it, sat on the picket, and belayed Marcus up. On top we really had no idea how to get off. One way was a very long ridge of nothing but none too solid gargoyles which would take hours to traverse, the north face was an option but we couldn't see more than a few feet down it and had no idea what would happen if we started down it. Also we had nothing to rap off off. We concidered down the ridge the other way to the west as it was shorter, but after much digging and rooting around, we could find zilch to rap off of. What to do? The picket! Marcus rapped off my shitty belay picket (which has my mailing address on the back of it if you find it). I clipped into the picked and downclimbed the otherside of the mountain (N.face) so if it popped, he would have to pull me up and over the mountain. Luckily the picked held and i got to rap off it w/no back up. fun fun fun. Back at the base the wind calmed down but it was total white-out soup. I felt like falling over on flat terrain with no visual horizon. 360 deg of white. We wandered around what looked like heavens waiting room till we got to the upper palmer lifts. No skiis! Someone had taken my skiis back down to the palmer hut! D'oh!!! Why would someone do that? Turns out that someone did me a huge huge favor b/c just skiing out from the lower palmer hut back to the car, i crashed (spectacularily) many many many many -did i say many- times. I am a really shitty skiier. Maybe i'll make a "skiing sucks" t-shirt on my website. So the route is super fun, is a bit over 200m and goes in 4p at around 5.9(M?) mixed climbing. There is a route that goes out left on p2 called April Insanity and got a grade of IV 5.9+ AI4-M4+ whatever that means. I think the IV is a bit overzealous. The SW ridge gets a IV+ 5.9 AI4, and once again the IV+ seems rather much. There is a dihedral to the left of March Madness (the obvious ice climb) that goes at 10c. Inside the S.chamber there looks to be some fun 1 pitch stuff of all sorts of different grades. Go get em. I promised Zac not to share his very nice topo due to copyright issues...so if you want better info, email me. I guess you don't need any particular conditions except it not being real warm out. Ice would be a nice thing though. More photos to come. Some look better bigger, but the thumbnail for some reason isn't available in the gallery On the approach I-rock. "Rime Dog" is left of the s.chamber Marcus getting NAILED(he's in the center of the flash) by spindrift on p2. Marcus getting burly on p3. He's almost 7" tall so this section is a bit hard for shorter folks. Stemming, dropknees, jamming, and drytooling Rapping off White out...where's marcus? Where's the horizon line? Me n' Marcus well rested on the drive home Gear Notes: Skiis and skins One 9mm half rope Lots o' shoulder legnth slings Camalots-single set micro (don't use aliens they freeze) to .75". double set 1-3". we got away with only one but really could'a used two. Assortment pins: angles, LA's, and bugaboos...knifeblades not neccessary Lots o' nuts (marcus the gear miser brought the crappies selection known to man) This route takes rock pro in the .75-3" and nuts very well. Screws and pickets were totally worthless-find a better way down than rapping off a shitty picket Lots and lots of tat Goggles would be VERY nice Approach Notes: Boooooooooooring Start EARLY!!! Major shit coming down and the s.chamber is very very avy prone.

thanks! and why did i post this in the yard sale forum. i'm pretty whipped from this w/end.

I accidentally took a bunch of "photos" on a climb today under the movie mode on my canon digicamera. d'oh. they were such good pics too, but the dial slipped over to movie during the gnar. anyone know how i can save the 1st frame of the movie as a jpeg? i can't figure out how.

where?

I dare you not to respond to this post

come on, all these computer nerd and no spare 'puters? i'll sweeten the deal with a photo cd chock full of brazillian ladyboy whores.

next time try unimpeachable groping for some fun alpinclippin'. it's soft for the grade and lots o' bolts. super fun. 6 or 7 pitches if i remember. tops out same as ginger cracks. only a rack o' draws are needed too.

prepare to geek out on the weather like never before weather links and models

yeah, i know...but they are wicked expensive

using "LOL" is the gayest shit ever. also, don't you hate it when fitness instructors (like yoga or pilates teachers) call your ischial tuberosity your "sits bone"? fuck that pisses me off. I can see not knowing what to call it and naming it your "sit bone," but sits bone? it's the bone you sits on. christ.

dude, someone who would mooch off of me would be the lowest form of dirtbagger. that would be like asking a homeless guy if he could spare some change.

I'd like to buy a laptop computer. I need one fast enough for video editing, and dvd watching, also internet access, and to copy a shitload of music onto. any sugesstions or price ranges. i know very little about this and other things for that matter. Feel free to geek out. (link to my yard sale request)

i'm sure some of you intel or microsoft spraysters have one you wanna get rid of. I need one a bit faster than a pentium III (celeron?), with 512mb ram, 40GB or bigger Hard drive, wireless connection thingy for coffee shops,cd burned w/dvd player (CD/RW + DVD?), and microsoft office. I'll be using it for video editing and slideshowing (i have that software). if you have this, but it doesn't have something I listed...i'm still interested, but just help me out on how to add it to your computer. thanks

dude, nice TR on your website. i wish i did inti wantan a few weeks ago, you make it seem fun as hell...although i don't want to go through the last pitches of res.arete again...how do ya think the ropes would pull on inti?

is this in climbing mag or rock and ice?

i remember leaving the car at 3am and wishing i did the whole thing pre-dawn, it gets soft. remember folks, this climb is EAST facing and gets 1st light and it gets it good.

Or Peak Wal-Mart. I wanted to do this route for quite some time until i learned that Guy didn't get up it...then it went on the well stoked backburner. Who knows under the "right" conditions?

Yes...and no.

yeah, i need a photo of that

done. it's under custom products. i did a short and long sleeve. lemme know if you want anything different