CascadeClimber

<nevermind>

I saw them Saturday morning at the Reynolds, and I saw their truck in the dark at the bridge that night. I don't envy them that deproach in the dark.

When I climbed it we rapped directly over the face (not down the ramp) from the lowest tree, and just touched down with double 60s. We didn't use an intermediate rap. I just wanted to pass along the info- it would suck it be left hanging in space there. -L

Saturday: High of +1F at the Rambles. Brrrr. Sunday: -5F at Marble Canyon. BRRRRR. Deeping is a fat as I've seen it. IcyBC is pretty anemic. Kudos to the guy who led the first pitch on Sunday. More to his belayer who was patient for an hour while turning into a popsicle. We felt like the two stooges climbing team as we dropped screws and fubared ropes. There is roadside ice from Chilliwack to Lillooet. Have some pics coming. I think someone may have accidentally picked up a biner with two blue DMM double length spectra slings and a yellow Mountain Tools Webolette at the Rambles. Maybe the Guide and his client? If so, would sure like to get them back. Rumor is that someone climbed Shreddie clean in the last week? Another rumor that the ramp rap on Synchro can't be done right now on double 60s. The tree on the face is gone, too. Thumbs down to the Reynolds, who gave away our room on Friday night even though we had a reservation. They've also raised their rates to $43/night, which is only a few dollars less than 4 Pines. Still a great place for a big, greasy breakfast and morning chit-chat with the locals. -L

Here is a 15 second clip of my bud crossing the Cayoosh in 2002. It was more entertaining in the dark that morning before someone put in the hand line, but you'll get the idea: I don't think it's wade-able (but the Bridge certainly is). Cayoosh Crossing Have fun, climb safe, maybe see you up there. -L

Good luck setting up a Tyro in the Bridge. The trees are short sticks on both sides. But if you wanted to do something about the Synchro crossing, that would truly be a public service. -L

Fairweather, you are right: The big picture is that this is yet another erosion of access for non-commercial users, while loggers, drillers, developers, cattle ranchers, and other commercial interests seem to be enjoying increased ability to impart much higher impacts (clear cutting, building roads, airports, encampments, etc) on public land. Can you say "Healthy Forests Act"? While I don't agree with Matt about this being only five additional minutes, my real concern is, what will the next thing be, and by what closed, back-door process will it be decided? FWIW, I think the Middle Fork Road and the roads you mentioned around Rainier should remain open. The alternative I supported from the MRNP draft plans was the one closest to no change. -L

Let's be clear about this: They "groom" about 300 yards of this "trail" leaving the parking lot, some of which is required to allow winter access to the water tower. The grooming usually consists of running the snow cat up the trail to the first hill of any kind, and then back. From that little hill on there is no maintenance whatsoever- the packed out trail is created by skiers and snowshoers going in both directions. This is not a groomed winter trail like is maintained for paid cross country use on the other side of I-90.

It seems like the good Messers Kostanich and Donovan are not on the same page about this, as the statement from the Forest Service clearly states that Alpental is "closing the trail" to uphill traffic. I find it hard to believe that the definition of trail includes the entire south side of the valley. Does this mean that uphill traffic into Great Scott Bowl is also banned? This is a poorly considered, poorly communicated, poorly executed plan, which sure looks a lot more like a response to the unfortunate snowshoer avalanche fatality than any recent increase in incidents between lift skiers and uphill traffic. My money says some lawyer far away from the situation and people involved instigated this. The area has a long, long history of amicable relations between lift skiers and backcountry users. The potential loss of that relationship is what upsets me most about this. Hopefully wiser, saner heads with a good sense of the 'real' situation will come together to resolve this before it gets unpleasant. -L

Because there has to be a point where you stop rolling over and taking it in the rear end, Matt. Where exactly do you plan to park up there anyway, as it sounds like they've restricted access to the Alpental lots? IIRC, the nearest snow park is at Gold Creek. Besides, if the lease is this poorly written, it needs to be exposed so that it can be changed in the future both here and elsewhere.

This will change the first time someone gets mowed down while walking 2 miles up the road from the south side of I-90 at 4:00 AM, or the first time someone falls in the creek and drowns because a public trail was closed to non-paying customers. They've really gone too far this time- the Forest Service is showing what spineless minions they are. -CC

How can they restrict access to public land? I know there is a whole separate thread on this issue, but it just pisses me off to no end that the effing ski area authority would even try, much less have the power to do this. The backcountry does not belong to them, nor does the ski track, or anything else. This is beyond ridiculous and unfucking believable.

Beware the road if it hasn't been plowed. We got most of the way up to the first switchback a couple years ago before losing traction and sliding all the way back down the hill backwards in the truck. At the last moment I got enough traction to turn the wheel and slide to a stop halfway across the bridge. Without a doubt my most frightening moment ice climbing. I thought we were going in the water for sure.

Front: Fred ate my dinner. Back: Then he stole my girl.

I feel sick to my stomach. Ben was a fine human being: Kind, thoughtful, humble, and passionate. We climbed together at Hyalite last winter, where he went from newbie to WI4 leader in four days. His unassuming and humble manner belied his indescribable level of fitness and athletic prowess. We'd recently made plans to go back to Hyalite in December. My heartfelt condolences go out to Troy, the Hummels, and the rest of his partners in play. Peace be with you, Ben. -Loren

What is the distance from the bottom of the bracket to the top of the rubber grip on your tools??

I hear Costco does a decent job. Also, the Canon 900 and 9000 series inkjet printers do a good job. I have an S9000 (new version is i9100) that makes beautiful 13x19 prints. -L

Mikey's Gully: Not in yet (not enough water, it appears). Climb left of Mikey's: Climbable, but marginal, if any pro. Quite a bit of falling ice on Saturday. We bouldered at the base, but decided not to walk around for the TR. No snow here at all, so no flotation required. Some alder along the old road. The slope below the climbs was loose and tedious. Narada Falls: Ha. Half of what little there was fell down on Saturday. Stuff next to Narada: Not bad for some laps. Eagle Peak: Teaser drools. Long lines, though, if they ever come in. Nothing to speak of visible on Unicorn or Castle. The stuff way up on the Nisqually (9000' or so) also looked marginal. The area is hurting for moisture. Some pics here: MRNP Ice DBB has some pics up, too: Dave's Pics -L

IMHO (coming from Quasars) Pros: - Hook well. - Good clearance. - Excellent pick attachment system. - Good pick geometry. - Nice pinky guard, even without the Fang. - Small grip. - Large hole in the head makes it easy to clip them with a biner or to a harness. Cons: - The damn Android attachment point is too low. I have the leashes shortened all the way and they are still too long. I'm considering adding an extra hole father up the shaft. Also, as DBB mentioned, you can't mantle on the head of the tool- you have to unclip. - The picks are way too soft. They mushroom over on the tip and are overpriced for how long they last. I got two seasons/pick set with Moser tools, and use two pick sets/season with BD gear. - If you don't have the Fangs, Vipers will destroy your gloves. - The shaft does flex a bit. - You have to have a hammer or an adze on each tool: The attachment mechanism is different that Prophets so you can't simply remove the tail-end of the tool and reattach the pick. - They make a funny clinking sound that takes some getting used to (not a big deal). - Not as damp as Prophets. - I'm not fond of the BD adze design. - Could use a touch more head weight. They're nice, but I'd still be climbing on Quasars if that pick attachment system was so poorly designed. More conversation here, if you are interested: Viper Discussion on MtnCommunity -L

I disagree. Even in my limited outings the last couple years I've noticed a lot of new trail "improvements" that have added silly distance and switchbacks to otherwise fine trails. That moronic trail to Cascade Pass, the Ingalls/Longs Pass trail, and the PCT from Snoqualmie Pass to Kendall Pass are three examples of some idiot(s) with surveying tape getting way, way out of control. There is nothing graceful, elegant, or scenic about these trails. The Ingalls trail in particular is an ugly blight on the hillside. Horses and hikers are a bad mix anyway. I'll opt for a little brush, no horseshit, and a shorter walk almost every time. -L

I always thought it was mine tailings. I've read that it is a separate and much older formation, though I can't cite the reference. -L

Anyone have recent beta on this road? Is it driveable to the Cathedral Rock trailhead (trail 1345)?? Thanks- Loren

My springtime project, almost done: A little more plywood, some paint, and then it's time for holds... -L

Without a suspect? Isn't that, like, THEIR FUCKING JOB?? I guess the damn police are busy protecting and serving (their budget) by writing "click it or ticket" citations. How can they be expected to investigate an actual crime like this? -L

Clarification: Part I and Part II are not the same people, or the same route.