CascadeClimber

I haven't climbed much in the winter outside the Cascades. This last trip to Hyalite was a real wake-up for me: We spent three days in deep snow, getting snowed on, and even had to go crawling around under the car to chain up one day. And I was *DRY* the whole time. Plus I didn't need snowshoes or skis to travel in three feet of fresh snow. I used to think I had shitty winter skills, because I couldn't stay dry. But now I'm starting to think that staying dry around here in the winter is damn near impossible. Winter climbing in the Cascades is a suffer-fest most of the time.

You guys are hauling ass. Only two hours to go. And you can smell the ice from Missoula. ice ice ice ice ice ice ice

I'm jealous, even though I was just there! If you hit Perkins for a pre-dawn breakfast, tell Laura the waitress that Loren, Brett, and Eric say 'hi'. Climb safe- Loren

That's "Mummy 2" Your going to need: 1. A 4x4 with chains all around and high-clearance or 2. A snowmobile or 3. Lots of people for pushing, and digging or 3. To be ready for long approaches. The ice is FAT and BLUE and pretty plastic later in the day. Hyalite rocks. The Sceptre was huge, but I chickened out. It's right next to Mummy 2. Dribbles is great, too. Go get it. Temps were moderate for us. Take pics for those of us who are trapped in Washington. -Loren

I have a couple of older Kong keylock ovals that I use for chocks- they work great.

Which make/model are you using?

Amen to that Brother Knight! Phair Game is another stellar Phair Creek climb. From late February, 2001:

I really enjoyed this one, though it looked a little different when we climbed it: It's every bit of 60 meters, too.

Yep, you can see it from directly below, though that isn't the best approach.

Might want to double check that one. APTA is WI5 or 5+.

Rather than pontificating from the comfort of your desk chair, I suggest that you zip in there and cruise the second ascent, then report back. Happy climbing.

The giant eyebolt was still there last time I went that way. You don't need to rap, though. It's pretty obvious when you get to the notch. There is just a little elevation gain and loss on the travese, until you get to the exit chute. Wear a helmet. -Loren

Not this weekend. That would be the Lambone Party. I'm gonna sponge off their beta and go next week. ice ice ice ice ice ice ice ice

I'm gonna skin through bottomless powder to a fat, blue, plastic unclimbed three-pitch WI4+. Then I'm gonna yoyo ski three laps on the way out just because the snow is a dream. Then I'm gonna wake up and realize it's all a dream and that it's effing 50+ degrees and raining again and there isn't any fat ice or powder within 300 miles. Hyalite here I come.

Nice start, and thanks for the link on the Phair Creek page. When complete, your site will be a excellent completement to Lyle's ice guide. If you want/need, you are welcome to use my images on the site, as long as you don't mind including a copyright notice. Best- Loren

One is a closeup of Genesis 1 looking fat and picked out, and the other is Dribbles, looking much more appetizing that it did in November. Ice ice ice ice ice ice ice

I wonder how they feel about their employees taking that advice...

Anyone speak French?

Ahem, I think you are perhaps leaving out some pertinent details. Specifically: In those SIX years, how much money was spent by RTA and what, precisely, did they accomplish, other than a bunch of monkey spanking? Any entity that throws away as much taxpayer money as RTA did should be stripped of funding. In the same amout of time, Portland tripled the size of Max and rebuilt their airport. This is not about lack of money, it is about complete incompetence and lack of accountability. That is why I've voted for lower taxes. Grumble, grumble, grumble...

It's that the cuts they chose seem to be quite vindictive that irritates the hell out of me. Thay aren't shuttering the State Capital dining room with it's french chef, but I have to pay to park anywhere in the damn state except my own driveway. How about Gary Locke and the rest of the schmucks take it in the shorts, too? Maybe a nice fat paycut, or maybe cut the size of the State House in half. They are quick to point out that these cuts won't make a difference, so they shouldn't make them. Poppycock.

Good onya! Got any pics for us? -Loren

I only have 24" pickets. In my experience, I can't think of a time when a 24 didn't work well, but a 36 would have. YMMV

No, technically it is Tacoma and the Eastside's turn 'next week'. Last week it was 'next week', and this week it is 'next week', and so on. "While your perception is the correct perception, it is not, however, reality." - The Clinton Administration

I'm pretty sure the description is under the name, so both of the listings are from Washington: Zeksterite $12.00/each Light straw colored eye clean round cut stones from Washington averaging 2.0mm. Zeksterite $20.00/each A light straw colored eye clean round cut stone from Washington averaging 2.9mm. -L

Check out the Blewett and Leavenworth cams on any of the various sites (like, for example, this one: cascadeclimber.com webcam page ). I'd say the precip is definitely making it over the crest!