CascadeClimber

This is the second TR this year detailing steep, multipitch ice on this route. Has it changed in character? A few years ago the shortest route through the cliff was 1/2 pitch of AI2+, or you could traverse further left for a couple pitches of AI2/2-. Anyway, good job! It sounds stout. ??? -L

As Beckey said, "Garfield is a hazardous enigma." I, for one, am glad that this route seems to be in that character. -L

His kids are about the same age as mine. Sure brings things home. My thoughts and prayers to his children, wife, and the rest of his family. Kudos to his partner and all involved in the rescue effort. Very sad that such a herculean effort had such a tragic outcome. Peace all- L

Yeah, and I'm pretty sure it's "Mike Gauthier", not "Rick Gauthier". Where is the King4 QC deepirtment, on Sping Brake?

How about a lexan nalgene in a purple OR pouch just up the ridge from the Sherpa entrance?? -L

Headed down this week. Will be going in Pole Creek.

Anyone know if Highway 46 (Cascade Lakes Highway) is open to Devil's Lake yet? TIA- L

Which, notably, is a trailhead where a parking pass is required. They seem capable of writing ample tickets there, I wonder why they aren't as energetic about catching the bandit?

This has been a serious, frequent, ongoing problem for a couple years now. You might try searching the forum for the many threads on it. "Vigilante" might be a good search word. I remember one where someone got a picture and a partial plate, too. The cops have been less than helpful and/or interested in doing much of anything. Maybe they could spend less time generating revenue through mindless programs like "Clickit or Ticket" and actually do some protecting and serving by trying to catch the clowns? I had my wallet lifted out of my car at the Highpoint TH a few years ago. I accidentally left the car unlocked and they took just the wallet, leaving a cell phone, CD, and some other goodies. The charge trail started in Issaquah and went down to Pierce county. -L

It was just spindrift on rock when we were there. It also didn't at all resemble a couloir- more like a big, slabby face. YMMV

Well, I guess that cleaned all the manure out of the horse camp.

Paypal is not safe, either. They are not goverened by the same rules as banks. I've read of several instances where items were sold on eBay to overseas buyers, the seller received payment into their Paypal account, shipped the item, and Paypal subsequently pulled the payment due to fraud. Be careful.

Can you say powderlicious? Seriously, though, the pattern while we were there was nighttime clearing (and hence cold), clouding up in the early afternoon, snow late afternoon and graupel nastiness in the evening, before clearing again. The south facing slopes had 6-12 inches of fresh, wet, isothermic snow on a firm base. A bit more depth on the north facing slopes, but staying dry and relatively light. The Stuart and Sherpa Glaciers seemed stable to me. We some recent spontaneous slides on the south faces. Be safe.

You folks got an early start! We climbed it on Saturday and were camped up on the moraine. It looked to us like two parties in three tents down there in the trees. Did the other make it? Congrats- fun climb. We had to hunt a bit for the top of the Sherpa, and we'd been down that way once before. -L

Ha! Me too. We used to walk to the games. It holds 107,501 now. A2 is a nice little town.

Climb: Mt. Stuart-Stuart Glacier Couloir, Upper West Ridge Date of Climb: 4/18/2004 Trip Report: Easy: Mountaineer Creek approach: No brush, no boulders. Hard: Wallowing in thigh-deep freshiez below the couloir, very snowy rock on ridge. Fun: Perfect ice and neve for half of couloir, thrilling rock climbing with gloves and tools, spicy weather, Sherpa Glacier glissade. Assorted pics: Argonaut Stuart Sunrise on Seracs First pitch from the notch: Airy belay on north side South side traverse pitch Sherpa Balanced Rock Spectre of Gaper Great climb. Props to Jens for leading the hairball pitch. -L Gear Notes: Almost full set of nuts, a few medium cams, lots of slings, a couple pins. Approach Notes: Parked one mile from TH. Trail mostly snow covered.

The crater rim of Rainier. Mirror Lake in the Trinity Alps. The Daniels/Cathedral Rock area. Alta Mountain. Drury Falls in winter.

Jberg has to be in there somewhere. It's somewhat unique, as the summit is only a horizontal mile from the parking lot, and the approach is less than 20 minutes. I suspect it's also high on the unplanned bivies/successful summits ratio. My favorite Jberg quote; "I'd rather be dipped in shit than climb it again." -L

You didn't happen to find a lexan Nalgene in a purple OR pouch on the ridge below the false summit, did you? The skiing looked really good. Got any more pics? -L

Yes, there is, but IIRC it doesn't go to 9000', or to the crater where I've seen them every time I've been up there.

I know they aren't supposed to be at 9000' on Baker, but they do it all the time and Johnny Law just seems to look the other way. I guess they are too busy writing Northwest Forest Pass tickets to hikers and climbers at traileheads. Good riddance to the idiot's sled.

feh

The back frame is lag-screwed to the house frame, and the rest was built on from there. 4x4s and 2x10s, mostly, with *a lot* of five and six inch lags. AlpineDave was a huge help. More info and comments here: My wall spray Jens has the killer indoor wall in his two-story garage. Post some pics, dude! -L

I just heard it's opening today: Thursday, April 8.