CascadeClimber

Matt, I think it would be helpful to all involved if you didn't use the word "we" to describe, as near as I can tell, at least two separate groups of people: "...but we DO need to evaluate our practices as climbers..." "...it was only yesterday that we were able to have a direct meeting..." "...we had a meeting with route developer types because we wanted..." It would also be nice to know who the more selective "we" is, as that "we" seems to be speaking for the larger "we". Because, well, I didn't vote for you, and I thought this was an autonomous collective Also, you might consider that by deleting posts, you only foster the kind of external beliefs about climbers that you seek to allay. Censorship and keeping people in the dark, despite alluring arguments to do so, most often bring about exactly the thing that those doing it seek to avoid. Best- Loren

I have a Sony DSC-P1 and V1, my wife has an F707. All take better pics than the AE1-P and Rebel 2000 35mm SLRs we had before (we shot film, not slides). The V1, which I use for climbing now, takes great pics, has nightshot, and a laser-assist AF light. It also takes nice video, unlimited length. It is not as handy to use one-handed as the P1 (and presumably the P10). I'm impressed with the sharpness of the images from the Canon that AlpineDave has (an S40??). One is in a frame in my living room. Sony memory technology is fast, but it's twice as expensive as compact flash or SD, which most of the other manufacturers use. Plan to buy a significantly larger memory card than what is included with the camera. An extra battery is also nice (especially when, unlike me, you remember to charge them up). I agree, the manufacturers have pushed too hard on megapixels at the expense of image quality. The reason I went with the V1 instead of the P10 is that I wanted optics better matched to the CCD. Pics from the P1 (3 megapixel) are good to about 8x10. The 707 and V1 pics (5 megapizel) looks great at 13x19. Don't worry: Whatever you get will be obsolete by this time next year and you'll be jonesing for the latest multimegapixel wonder-widget. FWIW, I figured that my P1 paid for itself in film and processing costs in about a year. -L

I've been in the 80-85 minute range on the old trail to the top. I can't imagine hucking a 60 pound training pack up the haystack, though. -L

I used to sit next to a dude who left his damn Nextel on his desk all day, even when he wasn't there. We finally took it and put it up in the drop ceiling. Was fucking hilarious when he came back- he could hear it beeping and ringing, but couldn't find it. We all just sat there biting our lips. Don't get mad, get even!

I've been meaning to ask about times up Si- I'm trying to get my sorry, lethargic ass back in shape. What is a respectable time up the old trail, say to the little clearing in the trees just past the boulders, not to the top of the Ghayperstack? Under an hour is fast in my book, with all the switchbacks.

What's the weather forecast looking like down there? It's looking like yet another holiday weekend filled with copious amounts of liquid sunshine up here. So suck. -L

Just logon to PayPal and send $$ to Tim's email addy.

The haystack was lovely fun in a cold downpour at 6:00 PM Saturday. Props to the girl carrying her Baker pack and towing her Mom in training for her climb in two weeks. -L

Fredbot Fredbot is the highly refined, waterproof, mil-spec, outdoor-use version of the widely available indoor-only Sendbot. Fredbot features include: Fredbot Digestive System: Eats snaffle, slide alder, and devils club, craps manila hemp. Fredbot Eyes: Can easily distinguish between the obvious gully and the obviously not obvious gully. Can see through white-outs and ground fog, especially to find your girlfriend (see Fredbot Pits). Fredbot Pits: Exude copious amounts of Fredbot pheromomones, combines with Fredbot Skin to make Fredbot irrestible to your girlfriend. Fredbot Chalk Bag: Crafted from snaffle skin left over from last night's dinner, filled with snaffle bone ground to fine powder by Fredbot Teeth. Fredbot Feet: Soles tougher than Vibram, more sticky than Stealth, featuring tough-as-steel retractable five-point crampons/toe nails. Fredbot Nose: Can smell a delectible dinner-size snaffle from over a mile away. Can catch a whiff of an untrammeled route from three easy scrambles and one slightly brushy valley away. Fredbot Hands: Look (and work) like #3.5 Camalots. Fredbot Fingers: Each Fredbot finger features two knuckles from which the molds for Frost Sentinel nuts were cast. Fredbot Ears: Widely rumored to be non-functional, they simply operate in stealth mode so Fredbot isn't distracted by your whining when he steals your girlfriend (see Fredbot Pits). Fredbot Skin: Effortlessly sheds copious amount of Northwest Liquid Sunshine. Impervious to thorns, bug bites, and crack rash. Permabronze coloring combines with Fredbot Pits to make him irrestible to your girlfriend. Fredbot Pack: Looks like an old-school ruck, but weighs nothing and carries everything. Fredbot Little Black Book: Widely believed to be nothing more than a rumor, the Fredbot LBB does exist, but is invisible to all but Fredbot and Helmybot. All notes are taken in Fredroglyphics or Helmyskrit, so you couldn't read it even if you could see it. Fredbot Guidebooks: Filled with translations of information formerly housed in the Fredbot LBB. Consists mostly of routes you'll: 1. Never be able to find. 2. Never be able to get to, even in twice the time noted. 3. Never be able to send, even if you do get to them. Fredbot Belay Slave: Your girlfriend. See Fredbot Pits and Fredbot Skin. Feel free to add-on. -L

Ad-aware gets most of it. But you may also want to run CWShredder: It gets some things that Ad-aware can't.

Fred is a damn god! Go Fred, go!

Dunno how to post from the gallery. That one is from my site. We passed the ice cliff at the top of the rounded rock heap in 2001. Of course, I was later chided for climbing the "Cheater Route": -L

Where were you guys relative to this pic: ??

This is the second TR this year detailing steep, multipitch ice on this route. Has it changed in character? A few years ago the shortest route through the cliff was 1/2 pitch of AI2+, or you could traverse further left for a couple pitches of AI2/2-. Anyway, good job! It sounds stout. ??? -L

As Beckey said, "Garfield is a hazardous enigma." I, for one, am glad that this route seems to be in that character. -L

His kids are about the same age as mine. Sure brings things home. My thoughts and prayers to his children, wife, and the rest of his family. Kudos to his partner and all involved in the rescue effort. Very sad that such a herculean effort had such a tragic outcome. Peace all- L

Yeah, and I'm pretty sure it's "Mike Gauthier", not "Rick Gauthier". Where is the King4 QC deepirtment, on Sping Brake?

How about a lexan nalgene in a purple OR pouch just up the ridge from the Sherpa entrance?? -L

Headed down this week. Will be going in Pole Creek.

Anyone know if Highway 46 (Cascade Lakes Highway) is open to Devil's Lake yet? TIA- L

Which, notably, is a trailhead where a parking pass is required. They seem capable of writing ample tickets there, I wonder why they aren't as energetic about catching the bandit?

This has been a serious, frequent, ongoing problem for a couple years now. You might try searching the forum for the many threads on it. "Vigilante" might be a good search word. I remember one where someone got a picture and a partial plate, too. The cops have been less than helpful and/or interested in doing much of anything. Maybe they could spend less time generating revenue through mindless programs like "Clickit or Ticket" and actually do some protecting and serving by trying to catch the clowns? I had my wallet lifted out of my car at the Highpoint TH a few years ago. I accidentally left the car unlocked and they took just the wallet, leaving a cell phone, CD, and some other goodies. The charge trail started in Issaquah and went down to Pierce county. -L

It was just spindrift on rock when we were there. It also didn't at all resemble a couloir- more like a big, slabby face. YMMV

Well, I guess that cleaned all the manure out of the horse camp.