dbconlin

I have the old one with the rigid fuel line...but I guess I can cook on the floor as suggested above.

I am wondering how one would cook in one of these alpine bivy tents. The most obvious choices are: 1. hanging stove, 2. use the optional vestibule. However, I have an XGK stove, which does not seem conducive to converting to hanging mode and I would like to avoid the expense/weight of the vestibule. Any suggestions for how to cook/melt water during a STORM? Thanks.

One rope I bought a couple of years ago came with a little card that recommended two specific brands of black markers they suggest you use to mark the middle. I forget the names of them though. I marked 3 of my ropes with that pen and the next week my buddy told me he read a piece in a climbing magazine where they tested ropes marked vs unmarked and the marked ones failed sooner. Oh well. Haven't broke a rope yet....

NO-AD is the best and cheapest and it comes in a huge bottle that you can refill your little bottles with!

I suggest Mammut ropes. They have an excellent dry treatment, hand and reputation. I have been very pleased with my Mammut doubles, something I cannot say for other brans I have owned (New England ropes, PMI).

check pms

I too am interested. I have some glacier experience (Baker) but that was a little while ago. Have plenty of climbing/alpine experience too and all the gear (plus some to lend!) Know all the basics of glacier travel but would like to practice sometime. July 23-24 works for me, as do most other weekends and I can tack on a Fri or Mon or both too.

I second the Yates. I think they are 22"

Keep off the howling wind when you're belaying alpine ice. I would not buy a softshell without a hood if planning on using in winter. For summer alpine rock or resort skiing or summer skiing maybe hoodless is fine.

Feathered Friends is an excellent shop with a good selection and knowledgable staff. Next to REI in Seattle.

Recently moved to Leavenworth. Injury has kept me off the rock for a couple of months but now I'm ready to get back into the swing of things! Interests: moderate (up to 5.10) trad, easy bouldering, practice aid after work (will clip bolts, too, if necessary) and high-adventure on weekends (alpine/rock/ice/mountaineering). Give me a call as I have limited internet access, or PM me and I will get it someday. Dave 720-244-2219 (cell)

Yeah, they may not work below 0, but if you keep it close to your body and only bring it out when you shoot, it should stay warm enough. As far as altitude is concerned, I can't see why that would be a problem at all.

I had some gear sling, but found I prefer a tied runner made out of that 5/8" tubular webbing (I think). If that makes me a hardman, so be it! I just cannot imagine carrying a trad rack on harness loops.

p.s. if it is any indication, epic is FF's most popular shell fabric. They have been using it for years and have had few complaints. If they are using it so frequently, it must be good, right?

I recently purchased a FF bag and had a lengthy e-mail discussion with their customer service before I chose my shell fabric. He seemed to indicate that: eVent is the most breathable wpb fabric out there and is more waterproof than epic. downside is its heavier (pack weight but also affects lofting of down) and expensive. it is apparently 4x more breathable than Gore Dryloft. Epic is comparable in breathability to most other wpbs/dwrs (dryloft, endurance, conduit sl, etc) endurance is a dwr, I believe. a couple of friends of mine spent the night in a snow cave recently with 1.) mtn harwear conduit sl and 2.) marmot lithium (pertex quantum). Both stayed dry all night, if that is any indication. I chose FF w/ epic. It seems to offer a nice balance of water-resistance, breathability, light weight, and high lofting.

Oh, also, I don't have any Alaska experience, but Mark Twight (here we go again...) says he buys downsized plastics and then fits them with thermo liners. So, I think a normal-sized Alpha would serve a very similar function.

I have non-thermo ones. I have been cold in them in WY. I also think they would benefit from a gusset between the tongue and upper--because of this missing detail, they are not as waterproof as most boots. However, I think they climb great, better than my leathers. With a thermo-liner, they would be significantly warmer and fit better, which I will probably get next winter.

Yeah, but it handles a much wider range of conditions and has a hood, and is more breathable. I just don't think the Alchemy is well suited to mountains, more for day climbing like ouray. It is too clammy, the sleeve gaskets are wierd, no hood, etc.

I have a MtnHardwear Epic Jacket, made out of their proprietary wp/b fabric. It works every bit as good (actually alot better) than my Marmot Gore-Tex jacket, and it weighs well under a pound, so not alot of dead weight in the pack. If I am expecting bad weather, I bring it. If the weather forecast looks good, I only bring softshell and suffer the consequences if it turns bad (which never happens in CO). however, my recent move to the "evergreen" state may force me to reconsider.

bibler winter bivy. It is still available and costs only $99.

I tried on and really liked the fit of the Multitraction. But that is my foot. They aren't the lightest, but I would definitely consider those.

I HEARD that wires from nuts can snag in the gate-hook thing on these 'biners and break off the nose... But this was supposed to be remedied after the initial production. Anyone?

I've seen one of his packs in person, auctioned off at the Cody Ice Fest. It looked pretty sweet. All the right features for alpine climbing, but a litttle on the large side. I think you have to order them direct.

If its really wet out, do you need to be wearing down? Maybe at a belay, if it is a kind of snowy sleety crap. Either way, I second whistlepunk. FF makes damn fine shit. Throw a hardshell OVER it if it is wet out.

Scarpa boots are sized in UK sizing. The size printed on the side is UK. I wear a 9 US street shoe and got an 8 UK Alpha. It is snug and I wear a really thin sock. I will probably replace the old-school liner with a thermofit next winter.