Alex

I mean, you are fukin kidding me right? I moved those topics to the garbage can recently because they had absolutely no value. Please dont be surprised if "hey looks whats going on at ass.com RIGHT NOW!!" threads posted in Climbers Forum here disappear. People who fucking care will go read that site, people who don't wont. "Do not call me a liar." Or what? The geenie will come out of the bottle? You'll show your hairy butt to the masses? I mean, sheeeet.

this coming from the dude who says Carnival Crack is 10a Peter_Puget might be right that there are other better hard routes, but its still worth doing

ah true thats what we did, combine the first "2" pitches to One Tree Ledge. Hence my p2 is the 11a pitch to Iconoclast, which in reality is probably listed as p3 on the topo...

p1 5.8 p2 Iconoclast thin but short 11a with good gear first half, but run out last 30 feet. p3 9+/10a very enjoyable p4 sustained thin technical 10b/c up, traverse left one corner system, up to corner climb direct (dirty 10-something) or climb the very strenuous overhanging right hand wall of corner (11b or ..?). I hung multiple times seconding this pitch thought this part. p5 technical but not strenuous 5.10 climbing up flakes, chimney with pricker bushes, to a big bush clump below obvious crux chimneying pitch p6 full 60m 5.10a/b chimney, capped with very hard(*) OW called "The Pressure Chamber". Either you will do it free, or aid it, there is no backing off at this point. Set up belay above chamber (10a climbnig still) p7 5.10a initially to 5.8 traverse above enormous roof, up to second roof which goes easily at 9+, to 5.6ish climbing to the top (*) conventional wisdom rates this 10d, your mileage may vary This route gets done rarely and is the full deal. P6 will be dirty this early in the year. Have fun!

Espana

What do you want to know?

I am surprised no one has mentioned Angel Crack yet. That would rate #1 on my list of sandbag 5.10a routes. jja, agree with Dogleg being very stiff and scary for a "5.8". Model Worker, I am not sure about. I think the 2nd pitch one move wonder "10b" move off the ledge on Godzilla is way harder than 10b. Maybe I just need tricounis.

sendbot, lets go do that trip we were planning up thar...

topping out isnt certain in August, the schrund will be enormous and span the breadth of the top-out couloir.

No wonder Rome fell to a bunch of Germans.

It goes to the summit! No it doesnt! Yes it does! I thought it ended on Sherman Peak?

The Coleman-Deming heads up the Roman Wall, while the Easton gains the summit plateau further to the East, with (typically) an ascending rigtwards traverse up a final steep (and crevassed!) slope. Both routes are summit routes. HTH! Alex

Thats because we are all the same age. 30. And if we are older than 30, we are still 30.

whatever happened to the good old days of Dan Larson?

Best use for a 70m single is long water ice climbs with walk off, long alpine ice faces, and long steep aid pitches Anything else, use a 60

"friend planning weddding" waitaminite....Gary, aren't you from New Mexico....?

Skiing vs walking: a heckuvalot of the first half of the traverse (to Yang Yang) is real traversing with not a lot of steep downhill. One exception is going from Cache col to Kool Aid Lake. Details: So you will probably walk the Arm to the Cache and Cache col, make a decision at the col whether to strap on the boards there or a bit further down, then have skis on until Red Ledge, briefly take off, then keep on until Spider Formbidible col, briefly off for the downclimb from the col, then skis on all the way to Yang Yang lakes. If your packs are fairly reasonable (but not with 8 days(!!) of stuff) you can do this bit in an easy day. Skis off to get through the cliff band above the lakes, then skis on for the entire traverse to White Rock lakes. Above white rock lakes you will probably take boards off, as the decent to the Lakes from South Cascade gl is steep! From White Rock lakes the traverse over to Dana Gl is probably not snow covered anymore, its brushy so will likely not use skis. The Dana is very casual and can be skinned. From Spire col down to camp is steep. From Itswoot out will be boot packing pretty much the entire way. Just as a checkpoint, with skis you could easily get to White Rock lakes in 2 days. You might not need 8 days of stuff unless you are really going to lounge and take entire days off and stuff. The Ptarmigan traverse is not a really long traverse by any measure... If you are an intermediate skiier, I'd say you will wear your skis (and skins) about half the time, and it will really speed your travel between camps. But skis wont help you on the way out from Dome much. Seeing as how much time you are taking, skiis might be more weight than they are worth...your goal doesnt seem to be speed, might as well lighten the load and maybe just take snowshoes or risk taking no floatation at all. The weather will be in and out. It usually is until into July.

Are you single? Sorry, married. Next!

As I work as a test engineer for Microsoft, and I would be very interested to hear about any legitimate* cases where you think a piece of Microsoft software is violating your privacy or sending your private data to Microsoft Corporation without your consent. * legitimate meaning data exchange you and I can reproduce and verify. I work daily with a Microsoft crash analysis program called "Dr Watson". These are the little dialog boxes you see after an application or OS hang or crash, asking you to "send report" or "don't send". You are always given the option to "don't send". I've had some people describe this to me as the app "calling home", but please don't mistake the function of this program: it is voluntary and it is used solely to diagnose and fix serious AV and hang problems with all software that runs on the Windows OS, not just Microsoft software or OS. The information you send *COULD* contain some private data, in a snapshot of memory related to the crash at the time if requested for a specific callstack (not the default), and *COULD* contain very specific Registry key settings if the product group at Microsoft trying to diagnose the crash requests it for a specific call stack. However those of us that work with this data at Microsoft must follow very specific protocol when handling this data because of this, to protect our customers privacy. I and all my colleagues take customer privacy very seriously. If you are interested in learning more about the Dr Watson program, pls PM me.

There are now 5-6 routes at Rap Wall. I will put it on the list to get a topo of the place and post it. Ghost Dog was redpointed this year, so no longer a project

There is a thing that is worse than AIM, the AOL client. I had AOL dialup for a short time and it was by far the worst piece of software I have ever used. Some other terrible software: EasyCDCreator, and other such programs bundled with CD burners. I've found good reliable DVD burning software incredibly difficult to come by. As to the current topic, I've tried Opera and while I found it nice for some things, when it came down to a "richer" client that works for things other than just casual web browsing, like a host for advanced client-side controls, IE is still the only choice. It goes without saying that in a corporate environment where your user identity is "flowed" under the covers against domain or Active Directory authentication, IE offers alot more than some other browsers. I am not sure what Opera or Firefox's support for domain/AD/LDAP is? As for apps that I like, for basic text editing I've been using Textpad http://www.textpad.com/ for some time now, and really like it. Its license is very reasonable (25$). Some people swear by UltraEdit. For a really nice source code experience, I've found Source Insight is a really nice product, too. While people may bitch about it, I find MS Word and Excel to be pretty darn reliable and usable products for office documents and rich text editing. Finally, I really like just about anything Intuit comes out with: Quicken, TurboTax, those are well designed and very usable applications!

pawn it. cold hard cash

rockfest, beckfest, now popefest!

Security? That's nothing? you're kidding right? the only way to secure your machine is unplug it from the network, then turn it off and go climbing.

1) If he cheated, she can keep ring if its off. But whether the whole thing needs to be off is up to the two of them....if they had already been married, would she leave him or forgive him and stay? Many couples go through this and it can go either way. There is no right and wrong, it depends on the individuals... 2) Minx is way too hot to cheat on, ergo her comments can't be viewed as objective 3) The way we worked it, the groom pays for the ring, the bride pays an amount equal to the ring for wedding. Speaking of which, that woman who staged her own abduction is being taken back by her fiancee....now that stretches the bounds of believability !!