Alex

They are great. The bowl is worthy

Izzat the same Mel of REI fame?

They'll be in soon. Except for Sad Cebu, Strobach climbs dont typically come in until around mid-Dec. With this much snow and precip, I can't wait to get up there!

It looks crappy. However for those who live close by, the stuff just to the right, visible in your pic, can be easily toproped off trees above (approached via cat track) for some fun mixed

Scott, call me on my cell when you get a chance.

Nice job getting after it Jeff!

Turns out Dan actually broke his ankle, upon XRay.

I've got 43 of the original guide's routes and many of those in the reprint though I dont know that exact count, but kind of lost interest in ticking them all off a few years ago. Evenso I manage a few more every year. More interesting question would be how many ticks folks have made in Dougherty's guide. Thats a pretty low count for me.

good to see this stuff in so early, and with the current weather it should be around a little while anyway. The last pic in your first post is Champagne, a great route thats TR-able (walk around climbers right on ledges to 1 3rd class move) and makes for a stiff lead too.

It takes a long time to freeze that one, its too high volume to freeze up after just a few days

The sites been down for some time. I am working on resurrecting it now

http://www.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-28_metric_e.html -19 the low for Lil'wet on Monday

You best be careful there Mark, Arc might be forced to post his climbing resume, which we've told will blow all our minds (yours too!), and reveal his true personae right here on the muthafukin Interwebs, before hitting the CAPS LOCK key and spewing drunken lol replies over three different threads. Then he's going to go cold turkey on cc.com, send Thermo, ski the Mowich face, all on a timetable while draggin' some gapers along who are hard climbers though, to video and the accompishment and send it via satellite feed from the top of Raindawg straight into some cc.com poster's mouth in Seattle Did I get that right? I'm so confused.

Saggitarius for the perfect Index moderate sandbag.

Not Rebel Yell (at least not the lower OW). That looks like this

Your first pic looks pretty junky. Even quite-solid-looking stuff can turn into a full day with the crowbar just to get the largest deathblocks down from above before they kill you or other climbers from being flossed off with a rope on rap.

Running Backlight and RootkitRevealer are very good ideas (but they detect maybe only a quarter of the known rootkit variants), I would add AdAware and maybe Spybot Search and Destroy to that list.. in fact there are a number of great tools out there and none of them catches all the issues (so running 2+ gives you some paralax), but in general rootkits and adware don't thrash the machine in the way you are describing unless you're already pwned and part of an active botnetwork. Adding more RAM and/or a new HDD are all good, OR you could just go add an external USB drive (a 250GB USB 2.0 drive costs around 150$), back up all your video/pics (but NO binaries!) onto the external drive, then wipe and rebuild the machine. Either way, rebuilding your machine is the only option if you suspect malware. If you don't suspect malware (due to your surfing habits or because you've run every tool on the planet) then the external drive is a great start.

Yes, you can climb there, but it will be quite cold. I climbed High Exposure on Thanksgiving weekend once, and it was pretty alpine...

When you climb the regular N Face route and get to the "correct" rockband (only 15 feet of rock climbing before the ice starts again up the exit gully), there is an option for climbing around the band to the left, which looks lower-angle and easier only with junkier rock and no pro, or climbing around to the right side of the 15 ft rockband which is slightly steeper and has fixed pins (2 or 3) in a corner. If you climb the right-hand side, you discover the hidden exit gully that is pure 70 degree water ice for one pitch to the summit. However, if you didnt get to the right spot to begin with, if you had angled up to one of the other gullies, you would have missed the exit gully entirely. This is the only image I have of us approaching the rockband, which is just left-of-center. You can see how you might miss the fact that there is the sweet exit gully from here. Sounds like you just ended up in the wrong spot and didn't know what to look for, so worked with what you had... Here is my TR from the same route. http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRCanada2003.htm#atha

I've been taking video of general climbing and sailing on my DVD camcorder for about 2 years now, and have learned alot about production, pace, storytelling, etc just watching the others (like mvs and philfort) and myself evolve our techniques and material. Not that my stuff is all that great these days, but its a hell of a lot better than where I was a year ago. I watch some of my stuff from last year and cringe... Here are a few thoughts: * 30 min is a very very long time for a home production. 10 min is probably more ideal. (That doesnt mean you only shoot 10 min of vid, tho, much of the content invariably ends up on the cutting room floor.) I've recently made one production that was about 18 min long, but it was of 3 distinct alpine climbs in the rockies so there was alot of content to work with and nice scenery and decent climbing shots. * Unique content matters. Watching vid of "just rockclimbing" or "just ice climbing" or "just turns in the Crystal bc" gets old. *Filming climbing so that its not boring is hard. An independent cameraman is pretty indespensable, so if contemplating something for film you're options are pretty much have someone film you who is rapping/jugging beside the route, or (in the mountains) climb as a party of 3 so that one of the seconds can play dedicated photog. Otherwise you wnd up with real choppy action, and invariably miss the "big moments" like falls or broaches (on a boat) or what-not * Quality of the camera matters. * Production and editing using quality software makes a huge difference. I was using some piece of crap stuff, but on Phil's suggestion went to using Sony Vegas. Good software makes it easier to choreograph the production, mix in sound, make judicous use of subtitles, and so on. * "Special" post production can kill a video. I just watched some vid of some ice climbing, and at the end there was an interview with the climber that completely killed the pace and stoke of what up to that point had been a good show!

Firstly, do you have doubles or only singles in your cams? It might be controversial, but I am going to recommend you don't climb most routes with nuts, and when you do its specifically small/micro RPs and copper-steel micronuts that are for placements you cannot get cams into. Climb with a double set of cams to 2", and supplement as necessary for particular routes in larger or smaller sizes. For example, for a route like R&D, you might climb with just a single set of cams to 3". But if doing Cocaine Crack you might carry doubles or more in sizes up to 1". For a route like Outer Space you might climb with the full double set of cams to 2" with one 3" peice.

Stanley Headwall

That said, the crag itself is a bit of a hag...lower angle, pretty chossy, vegetated...making for poorer quality climbing if your game is rock climbing with rock shoes and a set of draws. Not recommended for that kind of thing. The old 1/4 inchers are gone now, though.

you mean its not part of Canuckya?