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Everything posted by Alex
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I have the thing on VHS, but if anyone gets it in digital form that one could burn on CD, that would be great!
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sailing through bad storms just comes with the territory offshore. "His masts, engine, navigation control are out." Unless he's holed, he doesnt need any of these to survive if he's far enough from any lee shore, though the motor out makes it real tough to get the boat to port if the mast is gone and there is nothing left to jury rig.
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"Cascade C" is probably going to be the better bet for condish for the next month, maybe even fer ever!! Yes, only Alex can add information to that site right now. The Conditions page there is meant to be more something like gravsports or the CASBC site. But who knows what the future holds, the dang thing only came back online last week after a year and a half dead! If you submit your TR and conditions info here on cc.com, I will make my best effort to pick them up and compile them there. If you have FA info you can always e-mail it to me directly.
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skis are better than snowshoes, as about half the distance back is a downhill run.
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[TR] Banks Lake - Shitting razorblades 12/30/2006
Alex replied to eric8's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Really??? OMG! baa baa baa -
nice overview. the thing is, too, that you've just covered Motherlode, there are other areas too!
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Thanks, Drew, I think thats just a stylesheet tweek I can make to A:hover.
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Yes. hit F5, perhaps you've cached the page. There is nothing earth shattering there yet, just some placeholder content. But I'll be working on it actively in the coming weeks and months.
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Site is up.
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[TR] Banks Lake - Shitting razorblades 12/30/2006
Alex replied to eric8's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Sent. Nice work. If it was in similar condition to when we all tried it last week I'd say 5 is pretty underrated (5's have decent pro, after all), more like 5+/6. -
In winter 2003 (?) my wife and I did the variation through Steele cliff, which was scenic and recommended. While the route from Medows might be more direct, you're bypassing the interesting climbing (crossing the White River glacer and skirting or climbing Steele cliff) if you go that way
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first ascent Strobach Mountain - "Tower of Power" WI 5 (FA)
Alex replied to AlpineMonkey's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Awesome! -
What stopped you? It looks sweet, especially once the first pitch forms fully. I bet that it goes down this weekend! It might go down this weekend, then again it might not. Go try to lead it, you'll find out.
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first ascent [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006
Alex replied to kurthicks's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
nice work you two. looks cool. can you email details re: where its at milepost wise? -
I detect a stealth-mountain-ninja theme to these items. Did you opt for the 80's stylee pink tights?
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The road gets groomed for snowmobilers, actually. Anyway, good news Craig, good news! Pics?
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There were plenty of people out there, and there was enough ice to climb or TR. When you go out to Banks during less-than-stellar conditions, just get more creative. Make sure you bring double 60's, and then you can always TR Zenith, the Cable, Trotsky's, Children of the Sun, Champagne (not in yesterday but re-forming) or any other routes that you figure out how to walk around to the top (these listed at least have easy walk-arounds), even when they arent in leadable shape.
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Hey John, did you go I90 way through Park and Blue lakes? Nothing in at all?
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Thats some big cauliflower
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I was working on it, and actually had a new, working site on my laptop complete with an online version of the guide, new photos, new routes, etc, but never FTP'ed it to the new host and I had to re-build my laptop this past week and lost that work. I will get something up there in the coming weeks, but its been slow going.
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Thanks Pax. Yeah, buy the book!!! I'd point you to the http://www.wastateice.net website, but its still busted. Argh!
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Theres a difference between Elbert/Massive and Rainier: with Elbert and other Leadville peaks you *start* at 10,000. With Rainier, you *start* at 5,700. Elbert is a day-trip. Rainier is not. Apples and Oranges. In terms of strenuousness on a scale of 1 to 10, climbing Elbert is like a 2, climbing Rainier is maybe like a 6. Rainier will be a new, different, and great experience for you, but I wouldnt worry much about altitude unless you get AMS sooner than the average bear. The most difficult part of the climb for you and friends will be busting that *huge* load that RMI will insist you carry up to camp Muir. Most climbers outside of guided parties learn to carry less stuff, and go faster, than your typical RMI group...but as your first time it will be good to be conservative and it will be really fun regardless! Sharing your stoke! Alex
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Its a longer drive, but PanDome falls at Mt Baker ski area would be a slightly more reliable bet than Alpental Falls. Again, bring your skis and enjoy some turns should it not be in. There also might be ice around Leavenworth that might be in, but its weather and temp dependent. Leavenworth is a really nice place to fart around for 2 days, though, in the winter, your time will not be wasted regardless of whether you get much ice climbing in. Climbing ice around here really is a matter of hitting a good window, and those are not predictable. Best bet is to mine this site for information just a day or two before you head out here, and see what people have been climbing.
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Doubtless many will remember other accidents on Mt Hood that generated just as much or more coverage...including cover-page spreads in Backpacker(?) magazine back in the 80s, and images of cartwheeling Blackhawk helicopters bouncing off Crater Rock loosing their props all over the snow (no one was hurt!). Anyone who is not familiar with the mountain might rightfully think it irresponsible or dangerous to "climb Mt Hood in winter". However I think the only way the mountain would ever become off-limits to climbing is if it erupted. My first climb of Hood was a solo jaunt up in Dec 1993, and it was a wonderful, safe experience. I've climbed it many times since mostly in winter. (Who wants to slog up a dusty slag heap in the middle of summer???) Bad weather happens, and even experienced local climbers will get caught out, let alone folks coming in from out of state. But the mountain is no more dangerous than any other mountain anywhere: Rainier is certainly more dangerous, climbing in Alaska is dangerous, the Rockies have their own dangers, hell even the Adirondacks and Whites are dangerous in certain conditions. I think for many, if not all, climbers if it wasnt at least somewhat dangerous, we would'nt go. Will anything change because of this tragedy? No.