DPS

Rad, I am the last person who would criticise anyone's decision to ask for a rescue having been on both sides of the fence. I have been rescued and lost a load of gear and never expected it back (and did not get it back). I have also rescued climbers and lost gear in the process and never asked to be reimbursed (and was not). I stand by my suggestion and would have done exactly that: send the gear back with a note explaining the expenses incurred and let the gear's owner decide what is right. Dan

Clearly the classy thing to do is to ship the climbers their gear back with a simple accounting of the expenses incurred. Something like this: Cost of ferrying gear down the mountain: Blood, sweat, and tears Cost of air taxi to transport gear: $500 Gas for 300 mile car trip to pick up the gear: $100 Getting a free ride off the mountain AND your gear back: Priceless

Try Walmart.

FYI: Clint Helander has a nice piece in the current issue of Alpinist on page 30.

I really like my Scarpa Summits for mountaineering, winter alpine and ice climbing. They are on closeout for $210 with the AVMARCH1 promo code:http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,2015R_Scarpa-Summit-Gore-Tex-Mountaineering-Boots-Waterproof-For-Men.html If they don't have your size, look at the women's.

I tried with varying results to flake the tag line into a stuff sack clipped to my harness. While it helps to eliminate the line from getting caught up, it tended to knot up in the stuff sack anyway. Maybe the 5.5 mm techy cord would work better since it is stiffer?

I only remember one technical pitch up a wide, verglassed crack with big ass, stainless steel fixed pitons. At any rate, we had a fairly light rock rack because we were there to do the Black Ice and NW Ice Couloirs rather than hard rock routes.

Summer. I think in winter it would be better.

Or stop by Dan Smith's gear garage. Always a good deal to be had there.

PM sent.

Hi, I have been looking at both the WM Summerlite and the FF Merlin. I have a WM Apache Super Dryloft and a FF Widgeon both of which have kept me warm at temperatures far below their ratings. In terms of quality, durability, cut, etc, I find the two brands to be very similar. As far as your second question, I would say it depends upon your objective. Doing Rainier right now with a 30 degree bag might leave you a bit chilly but would be fine at lower elevations. For later spring/summer/early fall a 30 degree bag would be ideal.

Thanks!

Has there been any research done on the relative strength of the different picket designs?

Thanks for the heads up, I had never thought of that problem.

I've been having fun making some simple but useful gear mods. http://www.themountain-life.blogspot.com/

I see.

You're new to climbing, right? Go do the South Face of the Tooth, not only is every tree wrapped with a mile of brightly colored webbing, gear is stuck on nearly every pitch.

I did the skinny lead line (9.4 mm) and thin tag line (6-7mm) for a few years with various results. For clean raps it works well, but if there is any chance of the tag line getting caught, it will. The last time I used this system was on the North Face of Mt Index. We had so many problems pulling the ropes that I cut up the tag line for tat and prusiks as soon as I got home.

Daisy chains are fine so long as one recognizes their limitations.

Ok, that is a little weird.

I would feel totally fine with it as long as it was stored properly.

I second the nomination.

Doesn't add up for me either.

There you go Shane, from the King of the Kahiltna himself.

Geez Josh, some how you manage to make the already awesome North Cascades look even awesomer. Nice work!