DPS

Here is a very informative web page on Mt Shasta: http://www.summitpost.org/mount-shasta/150188. Also, Billy Goats Tavern and the burrito restaurant in Mt Shasta City are both recommended.

No, sorry if I was not clear. We did not bring snow shoes or skis and did not need them. Locals said there was more snow than usual for a Memorial Day Weekend. We did get alpine starts from Bunny Flats and from our high camp at 11k to take advantage of firmer snow conditions, but even descending in the heat of mid day we were not post holing terribly.

I climbed the Casaval Ridge over Memorial Day WE 2009. Locals said there was more snow than usual. We did not bring floatation and did not need it. I did wish I brought my skis for the West Face descent though. That looked like a sweet run.

I agree on all points. I have two belay parkas, a Patagonia Micropuff which is warm enough for everything in the Cascades except for Rainier in the dead of winter. I have a Wild Things Belay parka that I bought for Alaska, which is plenty warm, but I wish I would have gone with down because AK is dry, and down is lighter and more compressible. If you go with down, pop for 800+ fill. Down is an investment that will pay divends for many years if properly cared for.

This article may have some helpful advice: http://www.summitpost.org/alpinism-101-an-introduction/756518

IMNSHO, trying to buy one parka that covers everything you mentioned is a mistake. I would say get a 100 gram Primaloft hooded parka for the PNW, and a quality, baffeled, hooded 800+ fill down parka for the drier and colder mountains.

Free climbing the route without using the bolts is a stronger statement than chopping it. It sets a bar that future climbers can either jump higher to clear or stoop lower to crawl under. Kind of like Messner and Habler's O2-less ascent of Everest.

Icicle Canyon in Leavenworth has a number of domes and formations that you can walk around the backside to drop a top rope on. The basalt columns at Smith Rock and the formation Rope a Dope crack are on might be TRable as well.

My guess would be on the Nisqually Glacier.

I made one out of a wire coat hanger. Have used it for years and it works just fine.

Having repeated some of his runs I can confirm that he is indeed very fast. He beat my time on the Enchantment Lakes loop by a full hour, and that was only 20 miles and few thousand feet elevation gain.

The storm was forecast days ahead and was forecast to be very severe.

Ok buddy, whatever.

Ok, I get the reference to Sasha and Bernese Mountain Dogs. For the record, I like dogs. I have two dogs. I called out the owner for their violation of leash laws and exposure to a dangerous situation which lead to the unfortunate fall and rescue of Sasha. If you can't see the difference, well, you're pretty stupid. As for Peter, if he doesn't like being called a dick, he should stop acting like one.

WTF are you talking about?

I may have written with a measure of hyperbole. They have the Whittaker Bunkhouse and a hamburger stand or something of that nature, in addition to the gear shop. I've only met Big Lou once and liked him, but like you said, Peter not so much.

I commuted by bus for 10 years. Whatever the drivers get paid, its not enough.

Thanks, I feel it appropriate given their long time monopoly on the mountain, their questionable dealings with the former park superindentent, and their various other enterprises including restaurants, gear stores, and motels. Plus Peter is a dick.

Aren't all radios line of sight and would have the same limitations as cell phones?

One of my partners who had crazy endurance (Aaron Musik) did it in < 24, and trail runner extraordinaire Leor Pantilat did it in less time than that.

Agreed. Most of us have done stupid ass shit and by the grace of God survived. Let's hope that is the case for these missing climbers and hikers.

Has anybody read the comments in the above linked article? This gem strikes me as particularly odd: "I remember a comment by Ed Viesturs (not sure of the spelling) at the time of the loss of two climbers on Mt. Hood in the early winter a few years ago. He basically said that he never climbs in the Northern Hemisphere after late November, even on 10K feet peaks...if he gets the strong urge to do so, he heads south."

Good call, as I was writing Ashland it didn't sound quite right. I meant to write Ashford. I'm sure the Whittaker Cartel would be happy to sell you a shower for the low, low price of all your money. Good suggestion on the private campgrounds/cabins. Quite a few small outfits just outside the south entrance to the park that probably have showers.A quick Google search turned up quite a few: http://www.threebearslodge.net/ http://www.stormkingspa.com/ http://www.almostparadiselodging.com/ http://www.deepforestcabins.com/ http://www.rainierlodge.com/

One winter day while driving SR 18 from 1-5 to 1-90 I saw THREE SUVs on their backs within a five mile distance. Each one was turtled right after a curve or a bridge.

I can' think of any, but Enumclaw has a public swimming pool which has showers. I have found some gyms also offer showers for a nomimal fee, but once again, can't think of any that close to Ashland.