DPS

I personally dislike the really small ones and have fumbled BD Nutrinos out of my hands. A balance of function and light weight is key for me. I'm very happy with some Mammut carabiners I picked up for pretty inexpensively at Pro Mountain Sports http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/carabiners/non-locking/mammut-element-w-g.html

Wow that is nice. Seems a bit expensive, though, but it does come with a snowskirt and tent poles.

I was actually thinking of the Nelson and Potterfield or Kearney guide books.

I recall effecting a rescue of two hikers on Mt Baker who had glissaded into a deep moat. A runner had been sent out to alert the Ranger station (this was before cell phones, and I doubt we would have had reception on the North side anyway). We began setting up tents to spend the night with the patients, but just before dusk a Naval helo dropped two parajumpers with litters who pulled both patients out in like 20 minutes.

I would say exposure in one select or classics guidebook or another have a lot of influence in this.

I never had a problem with camping in the winter with the Betamid. Some partners complained it was drafty, I thought of it as well ventilated. I have a WM with a Dryloft shell which keeps the bag pretty dry and I use a full length, thin Evazotte pad that keeps the bag off the ground. If you are worried about wet ground you could get a piece of 4' x 6' Tyvek or Silnylon as a ground cloth. Not all my partners were as thrilled with the floorless desin. During one really hard rain storm camped at the Stuart-Sherpa saddle (we stayed completely dry) my partner mentioned he felt like he had gotten away with something.

How is the East ridge? I'm looking for a little less spiciness than the N sounds. Dunno. I recall looking at the east face from Castle Peak one winter, and it looked kind of steep and hard. Don't remember taking a look at the east ridge.

Could they have been left on a project? Kind of a common thing to do at Smith.

The Ultras are lite weight boots for technical routes on cold mountains. They will work for Shasta, Rainier, ice climbing and many colder mountains. The Mont Blanc is an all around leather insulated boot perfect for Shasta, Rainier, ice climbing, but not for much colder mountains. It will be more comfortable in warmer temperatures than the Ultras. Does that help?

Gene is right about group gear, in addition to all your personal kit you have to carry shared gear. My favorite trick is to offer to carry the rope, arguing it is the heavist item so I can tuck it under the pack lid rather than needing to carry a larger pack to accomodate a bulky tent or stove kit.

Generally agree with the advice, although I personally would go for a lighter Primaloft hooded belay jacket like the Patagonia Micropuff or similar 100 gram jackets.

I approached the North Ridge from the road and accessed the ridge on the west side via a two pitch ice gulley.

I respect Spinonin's opinion and these appear to be an upgrade of the LS Trango Extremes which left me with numb feet for an entire month after a winter ascent of Chair Peak. One thing to bear in mind is La Sportiva tend to fit narrow dogs better and Scarpas a wideish foot better. Perhaps it is because I'm old, but I find leather boots easier to keep waterproofed than ones with Lorica and fabric uppers.

Also look at the Golite Shangrila 3. That is what I would buy for 2 -3 climbers.

I would recommend a more classic mountaineering boot like the La Sportiva Nepal EVO or the the Scarpa Mont Blanc.

I'd say bring in a screw especially in the summer when the bare glacial ice is exposed. Only a screw will work in those late summer conditions. I bring 17 -19 cm for crevasse rescue rigging.

Well, they probably won't be too hot, but it is more boot than you need, even for Rainier unless you are planning a mid winter attempt. For three seasons I go with a good quality, lightly insulated leather boot.

Stephenson's may offer either a long version or might custom make one. The BD Betamid should be long enough for very tall folks.

What about a tarp like the Black Diamond Betamid? I've slept in it under every conceivable conditions: mid winter alpine and BC ski trips, wind storms, rain storms, mosquito infested areas and I stayed dry and comfortable. They can be had for about $79.00. Plenty roomy for two people, gear, and with enough room to cook in. If you are set on a tent, the Stephenson Warmlites are light and roomy.

Glow in the dark? That changes everything.

I have a hard time paying any amount of money for Nikes, because they all suck.

These look like an improvement over the original pair that I have. I don't think mine are Scholler (I could be wrong) and they don't have the gaitor grommets.

I made my daughter carry her clothes and sleeping bag and pad, food, and water at age 5. But then again, she went to grad in another state.

I remember the Trango. I had one based on your experience, but it was the smaller model, about 35L. Just big enough for day and a half trips. I wish they still made those packs.

Ok, so like biq wall, alpine rock climb kind of stuff. I have a Metolius Hall Pack (Sheild) that is the perfect crag and wall in a day pack. And its 80s Euo trash neon yellow.