[What ice is in around leavenworth?????]

11Worth might not have ice, but Snoqualmie Pass had been great this season.

[Everest Endeavor]

which failed to drive Cats across the Antarctic in winter.

And I thought dogs on Mt St Helens in winter was bad. Poor kitties probably froze their little paws.

[How do you pack your crampons?]

1. Cut the top off of 2L soda bottle

2. Insert crampons tip first

3. Shove that shit in your pack

4. Profit!

That is brilliant.

[[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/1/2014]

I will attest to the lousy skinning/skiing conditions.

 

Come on - it wasn't that bad! I saw you grinning about it!

 

I guess I have to say it was the best skiing day I've had in four years.

[[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/1/2014]

I will attest to the lousy skinning/skiing conditions.

[Climbers on Mt Si]

I hiked up Mt Si yesterday (Sunday) and saw two climbers on the Haystack climbing the steep gulley\crack on the south face. Conditions looked Scottish, complete with fog, wind, and blowing snow. I'd love to see a trip report and photos.

[suggestions for beginner ice climber]

Some stuff at Alpental like Kiddie Cliff and Bryant Buttress can be top-roped, but I think the season may be over for those.

[Closed loop or eye 2 eye for friction cord?]

Not sure about the fall restraint thing other than I would never trust a friction knot to hold a fall, but you can tie a Bachmann knot or a Kliemheist knot with a closed loop.

[[TR] Rugged Mountain-Vancouver Island - North-West Face 1/5/2014]

Wow, very cool.

[[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/1/2014]

I'm betting with the good weather, NF Chair Peak is gonna be a mad house this weekend.

[One day winter alpine suggestions?]

The weather is good, conditions are awesome, and I have a free day tomorrow. I'm looking for suggestions for a one day winter alpine climb within a couple hours drive of Seattle. Also, needs to be fairly moderate as I have Petzl Aztars so I can't climb harder than WI 3. I can think of lots of objectives, but most would require too much time driving/approaching. Thoughts?

[[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 1/1/2014]

It was a pleasure gentlemen. I'm pleased you got photos of the icy conditions, it is not often you get to sink 22cm screws into solid ice on Chair Peak!

[FOUND: digital camera on Chair Peak]

Maybe this person's: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1118236/Re_TR_Chair_Peak_NE_Buttress_N#Post1118236

 

[Ice/snow gully climbs in May and Leavenworth beta]

Triple Couloirs might still be in condition in early May, if it comes in at all. One to two days for TC, prolly two for SGC, which should still be in. Other gulleys include North Buttress Couloir and NE Couloir on Colchuck Peak, NE Couloir on Argonaut,and NE Couloir on Dragontail. The Ice Cliff Glacier on Mt Stuart may be of interest to you as well.

 

In the Icicle Creek valley in Leavenworth are the 8 Mile and Bridge Creek campgrounds, both are Forest Service. I think there are more campgrounds further up the Icicle as well. Additionally, there are some other non official camping options.

 

Other options include Coleman Headwall and North Ridge of Baker, many options on Rainier, North Face of Shuksan could be good.

[All gear is gone]

Wow, Kaukulators for $6! Wish they were my size, best shoes I've owned.

[early winter on Rainier]

It was fine, but I've done it many times.

 

You've done it so many times you should change your name to RainierClimber.

[Issaquah Dry-Tooling Crag]

Hey Gerrit,

 

I live in Issaquah and would be down to hit up the crag after work or on a soggy weekend some time. FWIW, Alex and I 'discovered' the potential for mixed climbing there years ago when we were working construction together. There were some really poorly placed 1/4" bolts there already, but Alex cleaned up the place and put in reliable anchors.

 

Dan

["Oh shit mitts"]

I have a pair of Marmot Expedition Primaloft mitts. I have yet to use them yet, even after three Alaska Range trips and multiple winter ascents of Rainier. My old Lowe Alpine Primaloft insulated gloves have been plenty warm for my cold weather climbs.

[Drytooling Snoho/seattle area]

For Rap wall - walk up the Alpental valley to Source Lake and turn left as for Great Scott Bowl/The Tooth. The Rap Wall climbs are on the obvious steep cliff on climber's right shortly after you leave Source Lake.

[Drytooling Snoho/seattle area]

Try Bryant Buttress at Snoqualmie Pass.

I guess Rap Wall is what the cool kids are calling it these days.

[Planning my first visit to BC for ice]

Mile-O motel is nice and reasonably priced.

[RUTH GORGE + CASSIN // 2014]

You know what it takes and the experience you should have.

 

Ummmm, walking up the dog route on Rainier 10 times?

[Drytooling Snoho/seattle area]

Try Bryant Buttress at Snoqualmie Pass.

[Snow scrambles?]

All of these peaks are avalanche threatened, so be careful out there.

 

Silver Peak

 

Red Mountain

 

Granite Peak

 

Bryant Peak

 

Mt Snoqualmie

 

Guye Peak

 

[How durable is Primaloft?]

 

Does anyone have thoughts on how warm you need to go for winter?

I use a 100g Primaloft hooded jacket (Patagonia Micropuff) year round. It is adequate for the Cascades in winter. For Rainier in winter I use a warmer parka (Wild Things Belay).