DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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So, in a situation where you are carrying a traditional axe and a second tool, are you ever using them simultaneously, or do you stow the traditional axe and just use the tool by itself?
Yes, when it gets steep the second tool is used in conjunction with the piolet. As the ice gets steeper/harder you go from plunging, to daggering to full on traction/swinging mode like you would with paired tools.
The technical piolet/hybrid tool does not take the place of a second tool. It does climb technical terrain better than a traditional piolet.
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Is it typical to use a traditional ice axe paired with a tool? It seems like if you in need of a tool, it would be better to have two tools rather than one tool and a traditional ice axe.
Traditionally climbers used a poilet and a second tool e.g. north wall hammer. Paired tools are typically used on waterfalls and technical alpine ice routes. My personal view is that on moderately technical mountaineering routes such as Liberty Ridge, Coleman Headwall/North Ride of Baker, Adams Glacier, etc a long axe is very useful as much of the ascent and all of the descent are not that steep and a long axe (60 -65cm) is better for that type of terrain. On very steep alpine routes (Triple Couloirs, NF Chair, NW Ice Couloir, Eldo etc) a pair of tools is generally preferred.
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DPS, I remember your recent comments on that. Any special notes (or a photo) on finding the top of the Sherpa gully? thx
You don't want to drop into the Sherpa gulley, if you do you've gone too far east. I don't have any photos but I think you just traverse past Cascadian to the ridge separating the Cascadian and Sherpa gullies. At that point the ridge is open forest with big, blocky boulders. There is a foot path with cairns which becomes a more distinct trail as you descend.
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Hi Rad,
I did WR Sherpa a couple of weeks ago. There is very little snow compared to previous years. I can't comment about Goat Pass, but the approach/descent to WR Sherpa we took was up and down a ridge to the east of Cascadian Couloir (and west of the basin below Sherpa Peak). We met 7 other climbers using it as a descent from Stuart. It was really quite pleasant; shorter than Cascadian with none of the loose, sandy, rocky mess. If I wasn't hot and tired at the time I would have called it enjoyable and scenic.
As for Ulrich's, I started down it once in a snow storm in August (see Nick Lyle's TR with Doug Smart) after a CTC ascent of the NR. It was pretty ugly looking. I would definitely recommend investigating the Sherpa ridge option.
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5.12 bigwalls never looked so good!
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5.5 mm Maxim Tech cord would be plenty strong and pretty light.
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descend fisher chimneys for shuksan if you have done that route before. If not, maybe a run up the fisher chimneys is a good idea. it is a fine route and prolly much much better than the price glacier. If you are wanting to do the price because if its inclusion in the 50 classics, well then you may want to rethink that choice.
I second the notion that the Fisher Chimneys is an excellent route, IMNSHO, one of the finest moderate alpine climbs in the range. I also really enjoyed the Price, although my stomach was in my throat most of the time.
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Nice! Joe used to live in Seattle before moving to Boulder. I had the pleasure of meeting him once on Chair Peak.
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Six nuts, only four on his sling.
Or two big nuts. Well, not even that big.
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Of course this means you descend the Cascadian in dry conditions, but it isn't too bad if you are heading down. Carry a bunch of water though, the route is quite dry that time of year.
FWIW, I climbed WR Sherpa last weekend. We approached via Long's Pass and up the ridge which divides Cascadian Couloir and the Couloir below Sherpa. We met two parties descending Stuart that way and it was WAY nicer than Cascadian Couloir, really pretty pleasant. There was a nice stream to grab water from too, although by September it may be dry.
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Gene,
I've done the WR by three different approaches; Stuart Glacier Couloir, West Ridge Notch Couloir (a couloir on the south side, just opposite of the Stuart Glacier Couloir), and the standard hike around Ingall's Lake and climb a series of gulleys to the West Ridge Notch. The climbing from the West Ridge Notch is the business end of the climb. 4-5 pitches of blocky, enjoyable low fifth class climbing. The 'approaches' to the WR Notch vary in their character, but none have the same character as the final bit. Every approach is enjoyable and really pretty nice climbing, just not the blocky fifth class climbing that the climb from the WR Notch characterizes.
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I am selling a pair of La Sportiva Rock Jock rock climbing shoes, EU size 39.5. I am asking $35, buyer pays shipping or meet in the Seattle/Eastside area.
I bought these for doing long/alpine rock routes but they are a bit small for me. They have a treaded sole, heel cushioning, edging platform.
If interested please send a PM or email softwareninja AT live DOT com.
Thanks,
Dan
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I just climbed the Tooth a couple weeks ago. I was happy to place a few pieces here and there, and noticed many of the fixed pieces are gone, save for a fixed WC Friend on the final 'flakes' pitch. It was also fun to practice with Lowe Tricams, pieces I've not had a lot of experience placing.
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The fixed pin sounds correct, but the photo doesn't look quite right. Here is a photo of my partner with the 'crux' dihedral up and climber's right, but is obscured. http://www.summitpost.org/crux-pitch/517392 FWIW, I've always called that pitch 5.6, but it is only a couple of moves before you can grab the top of the slab/rock.
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Way to kill it on your first TR. Hope to read more from you.
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9 nuts (4-12 BD Stoppers) and 4 large hexes are the most I've ever carried for the South Face. Small Lowe Tricams are useful as well, but not necessary.
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Jace,
I've been to the Tetons twice during the first weeks of August. A great time to go. While I have always gone out there with a partner, I have also picked up partners from the Climber's Ranch, the best option for accommodations.
Anyhoo, I know a guy who has been wanting to get back there this summer, as well as into the Winds. He has pretty much all the time in the world and a 'Sweet Ass Eurovan", although I'm told he snores, something I never knew because I snore louder than him. He is out and about for the next few days but I will shoot him your contact info.
Dan
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There is a lot of information out there on both these routes. What kind of beta are you looking for?
What I would have to say about Price Glacier is be ready for steep ice climbing or be prepared to climb some crappy rock. Climb fast. Stash a bike at the Lake Ann trail head so you can descend Fisher Chimneys and ride back downhill to your car at the Nooksack River TH. There are excellent rock bivis on the slabs below the first lobe of the glacier and a small bivi at the saddle below Nooksack Tower before you drop down onto the Price. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=901411
Other route suggestions would be Park Glacier Headwall or Coleman Headwall on Mt Baker or North Face of Mt Buckner since you will be in both vicinities and will be kitted out for them. http://www.summitpost.org/park-glacier-headwall/536658
NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak is one of my favorite alpine rock climbs and of course North Ridge of Stuart is classic. Both routes are in a different part of the range. http://www.summitpost.org/northeast-buttress-of-colchuck-peak/689764
If you get tired of doing alpine climbs and dealing with Cascades approaches, Washington Pass is pretty awesome. Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, SW Buttress on South Early Winter Spire are both excellent, moderate routes up incredible granite spires. NW Corner or West Face of North Early Winter Spire and East Buttress Direct on South Early are excellent climbs that are a bit harder.
A bit longer hike gets you to Clean Break on Juno Tower, Paisano Pinnacle - Burgundy Spire link up, Rebel Yell on Chianti, all high quality alpine rock climbs.
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I badly need some karma. If I buy you a new one can you guarantee me some good karma?
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I would agree with the two weeks - simply because Anastasia and Oleg have a wee bit more experience on the hill and as such know when to suck it up.
My house mate, Nick, was on Anastasia and Oleg's trip. I saw photos of the ridge from when they did it. The difference in conditions between when Anastasia and Oleg climbed it and the the conditions the OP's photos depicted are astonishing to me.
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you folks were just about 2 weeks too late.
I'd say a mere four days too late. Anastasia and Oleg climbed the ridge four days prior in generally good conditions. I would not have believed the route would have changed so fast had I not seen their photos and then the ridge with my own eyes the day the choppers were looking for you guys.
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Nice article and photos in Alpinist 43 on the Pickets by Dan Hilden featuring Sol and Jens. Also Squamish by Tami Knight.
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It depends on how warm you sleep, how many clothes you wear to bed, and the manufacturer of the bag. A 45 degree Western Mountaineering or Feathered Friends bag is likely warmer than a cheaper bag. The FF Vireo looks awesome.
I recently picked up a Stoic Somnus (30 degree) on sale from Department of Goods (Backcountry.com) and am liking it a lot. It has 850+ down, Pertex Quantum shell, weighs < 1.5 lbs and seems to be plenty warm so far this summer.
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Thanks.
Advice on our next route selection...
in Mount Rainier NP
Posted · Edited by DPS
It depends on the piolet. The Raven Pro, not so well. Other piolets do better. My partner used a Grivel Air Tech Racing Axe paired with a Carbon Fiber Black Prophet (the same piolet - tool combo I now use) to climb Mt Hunter and the NE Buttress of JBerg in winter. A reverse curve pick does climb steep ice better, but a drooped curve is better for general conditions.
I think the line of thought is this; You currently have a piolet so if you invest in a pair of matched ice tools (e.g. Petzl Quark, BD Cobra, etc) then you can use the hammer with your piolet for moderate climbs and you will have a fully functional set of tools for waterfalls and steeper alpine climbs.
You certainly can buy a technical piolet (Petzl Sum'Tec, BD Venom, etc) and pair it with a waterfall hammer or even a matching hybrid hammer, but then you are buying another piolet which you already have as well as the matched pair of tools.
If money was no object I'd run out and buy a 60 CM Sum'Tec adze and a 50 CM Sum'Tec hammer just for moderate routes. As I don't have buckets of money laying around I use my 12 year old piolet and a third hand 50 cm hammer. For steeper routes I use a paired set of tools.
I think SS is referring to a single piolet, no second tool.