DPS
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So, that last couple of times I did Torment-Forbidden, we climbed the South Ridge of Torment (I think). There was a fair amount of not super easy climbing on it, and I have heard the South East Face is considerably less technical.
I don't have my Beckey guides anymore, so can someone give me some beta on the South East Face, particularly where it starts relative to the S ridge (which we started right at the notch)?
TIA
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How close can you get to Mowich Lake if the road is closed? Is it best to just drive to the point the road is closed or drive to the Carbon Road closing and hike in from there?
Mowich Lake road is typically gated at Paul Peak trail head which adds about 5.5 miles or so to the walk, however, I'm not sure where the washout that YocumRidge mentioned is. I crossed the Carbon last year around July 15th, and crossing the Carbon was not terrible, but was also not trivial. Spray park is mighty pretty. One thing you could do is take one car, approach via Mowich Lake, descend the Emmons out to White River and try to impress some tourists enough with your badassness to give you a ride around to your car.
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Yeah, I'm arriving on 6/27 to do Ptarmigan. Ideally the road will be open by then, but I'm looking for backup plans in case it's not.
I would be surprised if the road is open by then. I've gone into Ptarmigan Ridge 5 times and some years Mowich Lake road does not open until late July.
Are there no shuttles that go between the two I'm guessing? I couldn't find anything. I suppose the best thing to do would be to rent 2 cars ourselves? Seems like a lot of work/expense if the road is closed.
No shuttles that I am aware of. Renting two cars just sounds like a hassle that is not worth it.
I know there is the option to park and White River and do the approach across the Carbon like some parties do, but since we're a party of 2 I'd prefer to do the approach from Mowich.
I've approached Ptarmigan Ridge from both White River and Mowich Lake, and I think approach from WHITE RIVER makes the most logistical sense, especially since you will likely have to walk the Mowich Road anyway. The approach from White River takes me the same amount of time as the approach via Mowich when it is gated at Paul Peak.
I don't understand why you feel more comfortable going via Mowich with a two person party. The Emmons descent is more difficult than the approach across the Winthrop and Carbon glaciers. If you are not comfortable crossing glaciers with a two person party, you may want to rethink your objective.
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All good recommendations. I'll throw Clamshell Cave area in the Icicle in. Usually not too crowded as it is a short hike from the road and it has a number of high quality single pitch 5.7 - 5.8 cracks.
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I agree with Jason, pretty straight forward to approach via Mountaineer's creek. If your plan is to enchain Colchuck, it is straight forward to make a couple raps off the south side of Argonaut and walk over to the west face of Colchuck. I know Paul Klenke (and Martin Cash?) did this CTC in a day.
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I've been in twice in years past around that time and had to hike the road a short distance when because of a large, lingering snow patch once and had clear sailing another year.
As for water, there is a small tarn in the moraine right below the North Ridge and Adams Glacier that I have camped at and is a reliable water source. Campsites there are decent and very close to the start of the climbs. I would still treat your water though. My preferred method is chlorine dioxide tablets. Lighter than a filter and effective against virus particles. The one time I got sick drinking untreated water in the Cascades was most likely a viral illness.
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It can be done, you will need to drop into the basin below the North Face of Argonaut by dropping down a gully on the crest just east of Argonaut. I've only done this in winter though, not sure how it would be this time of year.
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It sounds like you fellas had a grand adventure. I was struck by the kitty litter pitches and the relative lack of snow on the Ridge in your photo. It seems like the season is earlier every year for that route.
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The Asolo Fugitives appear to lack heel and toe welts, so you will need a pair crampons with front and rear 'basket' type of binding system.
The Grivel G-12 New Classic is a solid choice: http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/crampons/classic-trad/g-12-new-classic.html
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I had the thought of a creating a curated collection of some the best trip reports and calling 'Uncle Tricky's Bed Time Stories'. His story about his go around with the snafflehound in his cabin is pretty awesome, some TRs by Mike Layton are pretty classic and anything by Tvash or Ivan would make some great bathroom reading.
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I like the Clamshell area. Lots of moderate single pitch routes in the 5.6-5.8 range and nice flat area for the kids to play in. The approach is not super short, but not especially long or steep.
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I met John 5 years ago on this site to climb (among all other things), the North Face of Shuksan. On that day, we had planned to follow the boot pack of a couple of other friends who had a head start on us, but they turned at the base of the route due to concern over the weather. John and I started up the route, but turned after an hour due to deep snow and slow going - we just weren't feeling it.
That was me and another fellow you ran into. We were on skis and had planned on climbing the NF and skiing the White Salmon. The White Salmon was bony looking and the NF socked in with clouds so we ended up yo-yoing a nice stash of powder.
I knew of John through this web site and had the good fortune to run into him a few times in the mountains. He was unfailingly friendly and stuck me as being very strong and competent.
My heart goes out to his family and friends.
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Insurance companies will use any and all excuses to avoid paying on a policy. I have found consulting a lawyer who is an expert in their field to be worth every penny.
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I'm sure you'll get better responses from those more experienced, but I think the issue you'll run into is you'll have to be continuously pulling slack through the grigri
Still easier than tying back up knots.
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If the White River gate isn't open you'll have a long approach for Lib RIdge...Your best bet for access is from Paradise-
I've approached Curtis Ridge and Ptarmigan Ridge via White River Road several times in winter and early spring. The road to White River trailhead is plowed in two phases. The stretch from HWY 410 to White River Road will most likely be plowed when your trip is planned, leaving about 5.5 miles of road to the White River Trailhead. If this is the case, then riding bicycles is a very efficient way to make the approach. The White River road is mostly flat and can be biked in short order.
Yeah, it's quite a surprise to be coming back out of there on skis and find that someone plowed half of the road you were planning on gliding down back to the car.
The highlight of the trip was hearing the straps on your back pack snapping under the added weight of your skis.
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If the White River gate isn't open you'll have a long approach for Lib RIdge...Your best bet for access is from Paradise-
I've approached Curtis Ridge and Ptarmigan Ridge via White River Road several times in winter and early spring. The road to White River trailhead is plowed in two phases. The stretch from HWY 410 to White River Road will most likely be plowed when your trip is planned, leaving about 5.5 miles of road to the White River Trailhead. If this is the case, then riding bicycles is a very efficient way to make the approach. The White River road is mostly flat and can be biked in short order.
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Since I am in Northern California routes nearer to this side will be easy access for me.
Although not in NCNP, Mt. Stuart Cascadian Couloir route does not require a partner and is a few hours closer to you.
If you are broadening your horizons to the rest of the Cascades, Colchuck Glacier, Adams South Spur, SS Mt Hood would all fit the bill.
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Since I am in Northern California routes nearer to this side will be easy access for me.
Once you make the drive from Northern California, you might as well consider anything in the park. Ruth Mountain, or Ruth-Icy Traverse, Eldorado Peak - East Ridge, Sahale Peak, Silver Star Mt, Mt Buckner south side. None are like Shasta, in that they are not volcanos, but all are high, snowy, scenic and don't absolutely require a partner, although there are some crevasses on Ruth - Icy and Eldorado if you stray off the East Ridge.
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1) I've seen quite a few Triple Couloirs trip reports/condition reports dated in late April. How do things look now? Thoughts on what they might look like in 2 weeks when we arrive?
2) Similar question, but for Mount Stuart, specifically the Stuart Glacier Couloir.
It depends on the weather, if it gets hot or what, but I suspect TC will still be in shape and SGC is almost guaranteed to be in shape. I've climbed both routes in April (can't remember early or late) and SGC again in MAy and had very good conditions.
1)3) In general, how are conditions this year? Snowfall and depth? Snowpack? Any persistent nasty layers to watch out for? Spring sloughing starting/in progress/finished? Ice is in fat, or not so much?
This time of year you have to watch out for isothermal snowpack and climax avalanches. There are a number of trip reports indicating spring avalanches are definitely a concern. Conditions change so fast that it is not possible to give an informed answer at this time.
Precipitation started out a full standard deviation lower than the mean, but caught up by March and April has been quite wet. So, snow pack roughly normal right now.
1)4) How about the approaches specifically? How far up the road along Eightmile Creek is open? Do we need to bring skis/snowshoes for the hikes in to Colchuck Lake and/or below the Sherpa Glacier?
I've done somewhere in the neighborhood of 30+ winter and spring trips into the Stuart Range and will never use skis again, unless it is specifically for skiing. This approach was made for snowshoes.
Conditions change quickly, so ask this question again a day before your trip before you make the decision to use floatation. Current Road conditions should be listed on the Wenachee Ranger District web site.
1)Finally, as I look at maps, it strikes me that a traverse could be pretty cool as well. I'm sure something like this has been done before and would love some input from knowledgeable parties. I was thinking maybe up Stuart Glacier Couloir, across Sherpa Peak, all the way over to Argonaut, over Colchuck, and down the Colchuck Glacier. Thoughts?
Many thanks in advance.
I don't believe a traverse of the Stuart Range has been done in winter /early spring conditions, and I have thought about it for years.
I think you are on the right track :
North Side route on Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir/Ice Cliff Glacier/NW Face
An easy descent down the east ridge to Sherpa puts you at the West Ridge, which is fun, blocky rock climbing, most likely mixed at that time, but prolly fairly reasonable, along the lines of the West Ridge portion of the Stuart Glacier Couloir but longer.
Argonaut is the big question mark. I've done it twice in winter, and the easiest route is the NE Couloir. A true traverse, that is to say Argonaut via the West Ridge, would be very challenging. Lots of gendarmes and what not. Walking around to the north basin of Argonaut to access the NE Couloir would be easy at least, as all the nasty muskeg and slide alder is covered by snow.
Descending off of Argonaut, I have always rappelled the south face which sets you up nicely for an easy walk to the West Face of Colchuck. I know Klenke enchained NE Couloir of Argonaut and WF of Colchuck in early spring in a day, so it is very reasonable.
This information is all based on my historical knowledge, I haven't been out in the hills for the last month, but I suspect ice formation on high, north side routes (e.g. TC) will continue to improve if current weather patterns persist or at least until we get some sustained hot weather.
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Leavenworth: Clam Shell Crag area. Can be top roped.
Leavenworth: Mountaineer's Buttress
Leavenworth: Rotowall area. Can be top roped.
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I read that the Lib ridge record is 21 hours C2C, that seems slower than shit. Is there a more up to date figure out there?
Where did you hear 21 hours? I personally know folks who have done it in 18.
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You may want to check on the road conditions. April is early season so your approach will be longer than usual.
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Also check the climb schedule for Alpine Ascents. In the past they have led guided trips on the Kautz in late May so it will be good to know if they'll be up there at the same time you plan to be. Just so you don't get caught behind them on the ice cliff, step down off the cleaver, etc. When I climbed the Kautz it was late May and we lucked out with great weather and snow conditions. Having a backup plan, as others mentioned, is also a good idea.
Last time I was at Camp Muir it looked like there was a semi permanent encampment on the Kautz. I think it is one of the regularly guided routes now?
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That's right Dan, I have fond memories of that trip. Unfortunately, I've not tied in with either you or Kurt in the years since....We need to rectify that!
I remember our feet hurt, but at least it was a long walk.
TFT - South East FaceTorment beta please
in North Cascades
Posted
I've done the South Ridge twice (from the notch) and both times we did an awkward couple of moves leftward right off the deck - felt about 5.9 and another steep pitch climbing on good pockets, but somewhat strenuous. I keep reading trip reports that indicate the route went at 4th - low 5th. Am I doing something wrong?