DPS
-
Posts
4372 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
24
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by DPS
-
-
In honor of the Wilderness Act's 50th birthday, I think I shall go build a cairn on Asgard Pass. What do you have planned to honor the occasion?
I'm going to knock it over.
-
I've used the 30:30. It works well as a carryover pack and as a summit sack, I've used it for both purposes. My partner and I fit two sleeping bags, two pads, extra clothes, and both pairs of approach shoes and used it as a second's pack. The straps and hipbelt felt plenty supportive.
Another pack you may want to look at is the Arc'Teryx Alpha FL 45 pack. http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&category=Packs&model=Alpha-FL-45-Backpack
Both have features that annoy me, both lack features that I like to have, but both work fairly well for what you want them to and are pretty durable. I don't get the whole strip off everything just to summit, these type packs are already very light.
-
Slow down young man, you're making the rest of us look bad.
-
Great photos, thanks for sharing! I have recommended this outing to many folks and everyone loves it.
-
-
I was on Stuart a couple weekends ago. While I did not get eyes on Ingalls, there was very little snow on the ground. I suspect you could get away without an axe.
-
-
Nastia has a way of suggesting objectives that have been lingering in the recesses of my mind for years - Ice Cliff Arete is one of those. Alan Kearney has a term for it "Cleaning the skeletons from the closet", and it feels good to get it done after years of thinking about it.
She is is my perfect foil; she sees the obvious route where I see only blank rock, where I am weak, she is strong, and she packs delicious sandwiches made with Russian cheese.
I'm looking forward to our next trip, this time I will be wearing something other than Stuart Range camouflage so I will actually show up in the photos.
Thanks for the climb Nastia. Here's to many more!
-
completely unrealated to this discussion, but the new speed record on the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon is 26.33
Get after it!
Pfhhht! I could climb it faster than 26 hours and 33 minutes.
-
I have some rock shoes that are looking for a new home. They are free. You can pick them up in Issaquah or Fremont/Queen Anne. Email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com if interested.
La Sportiva Cliff: US 7.5
La Sportiva Velcro slipper: US 6.5
La Sportiva Trad Master: US 7
-
Very nice. Juan and I saw you and Dave descending the East Ledges from the NR on Forbidden a couple of weeks ago. We said 'hi' but I guess you guys didn't hear.
-
I would also like to thank ... all the other folks who have written about the Price Glacier.
You're welcome! Fantastic trip, happy it all panned out for you.
-
There are only a 3-4 5th class pitches. With a 30 meter rope you might have to do a few more or belay in some awkward places, but it would be workable.
The reason most folks get benighted is usually due to route finding problems lower on the route or if they belay a bunch of pitches before the WR notch. Get an early start and don't get lost (we had a photo copy from the Beckey guide).
-
Thanks Dan - you think duel verticals would still have been insufficient in the conditions you found, thus requiring horizontals?
No, I think the modern 3-D forged front points like Cyborgs or Sarkens or G-14s would have been ideal. They seem to be pretty good for that kind of ice. I had Petzl Sarkens which were fine.
-
I'm torn between my lightweight summer mountaineering boots with steel horizontal front-points, or my insulated boots with steel vertical mono-points. The monos will climb rock better, but they might royally suck on the snow/snice/ice, depending on the actual conditions ... what do people think about the best option?
I did Price Glacier a number of years ago in late season and found many pitches of ice climbing, with 5-6 being over hanging. I would personally want full shank leather insulated boots like La Sportiva Nepal or similar and dual point crampons. The ice was fairly soft and mono points may shear in those conditions.
-
Hi Tim,
John and I descended via the WR Couloir last weekend, and while we had little difficulties going down, I think it would be difficult to ascend, as there are two large moats.
Dan
-
-
Index is probably the closest good trad climbing to Seattle/Tacoma. I haven't seen many trad lines at Exit 38, however, I haven't climbed that extensively there. There are a couple good lines at 32.
-
My climbing partner and I saw a rope way down inside the moat on the west ridge colouir that balled up and had been there for years, but not yours.
Did it look about 12 years old? http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/forbidden.html
-
I thought that issue was bolts in the gulley/buttress below the WR Notch.
There had been wads of slings on horns and flakes and such on the WR itself. I could not locate these and wonder if they were removed to encourage folks to descend a different way other than the climbing route.
-
In years past I recall the WR of Forbidden had many rappel anchors on the climbing route. We descended this route yesterday and found only three anchors, which led down the north side of the ridge. Were the old anchors removed or am I just too blind to see them?
-
is that trail that goes off the bottom of cascadian and up to Long's easy to find? ANyone have suggestions about where it is or do ya just gotta hunt?
The trail down the Cascadian becomes a bit hard to follow in the dark when it travels though meadows, but not unreasonably so. It intersects with Ingall's Creek Trail which is very obvious. From the intersection of Cascadian Couloir and ICT, you turn right/West on ICT. The turn off to Long's Pass is about half a mile on the left/South and is marked with a sign on a tree, can't remember what it says, but it is marked.
-
Obviously YMMV, but for me 6 hours.a) how long a walk from Car via Ingalls lake to base of N ridge?
b) if anyone has done it this year, is last water on route at base of N ridge or is there snow higher up?I've found running water near the base of the NR and small snow patches at the notch in years past (August). Again, YMMV.
c) If one approached from the north, how long from car to base of N Ridge?
For me, four hours IF I nail the approach. I've done it easily over a dozen times and still manage to screw it up.
The REALLY nice thing about approaching from Ingall's is the delightful descent down the Cascadian Couloir and the character building climb back up to Long's pass.
-
Based on recommendations from this thread I bought a pair of Prana Stretch Zion. I've only tried them on, but my impressions are they are a bit small for the size in the waist and tight in the thighs, but not unreasonably so.
Otherwise they seem like a nice pair of no-nonsense, lightweight climbing trousers, plus they come with a Sean Courage feature allowing them to be rolled up to the knee and then held fast by snaps which I like, because I have bitchin calves and I want everyone to see them.
Found camera - know this guy?
in Climber's Board
Posted
Am I too late to pile on and say it is Ryan Lurie?