[Can you identify this screw?]

It could be a Smileys, but this looks just like the screws my partner had whom I climbed with in the early 90s, before Smileys existed.

[1/2 rope on alpine route]

I've used a 50 m, 8.5 mm half rope extensively on moderate alpine routes to 5.10, AI 5. Mine is 'Sharp' rated which supposedly is more cut resistant which makes me feel warm and fuzzy on the inside.

[4th class vs V4 - Gym climbers stranded in NCNP]

I know a very experienced climber, who shall remain nameless, who was on the front page photo of one of the East side papers stranded in on a rock in the Tumwater because his crampons poked a hole in the raft his team was using to cross to go climb Drury. Oops.

 

 

 

What strikes me as even funnier is he's a very accomplished open ocean sailor with multiple crossings of the Pacific under his belt.

 

And I thought his boat capsized? Rafael's comments about the mishap when it happened referenced a broken paddle and unstable boat, and the news article mentioned the craft capsized after entering rougher water.

 

This is the first I heard someone claim it was because he punctured the raft with his crampons. But, whatever

 

Now that you mention it, I recall a capsizing. Maybe we are talking about two separate things?

[4th class vs V4 - Gym climbers stranded in NCNP]

I know a very experienced climber, who shall remain nameless, who was on the front page photo of one of the East side papers stranded in on a rock in the Tumwater because his crampons poked a hole in the raft his team was using to cross to go climb Drury. Oops.

 

 

 

What strikes me as even funnier is he's a very accomplished open ocean sailor with multiple crossings of the Pacific under his belt.

[4th class vs V4 - Gym climbers stranded in NCNP]

 

I know a very experienced climber, who shall remain nameless, who was on the front page photo of one of the East side papers stranded in on a rock in the Tumwater because his crampons poked a hole in the raft his team was using to cross to go climb Drury. Oops.

 

 

I know who you are talking about.

[Can you identify this screw?]

That there is a Black Diamond circa early 1990s.

[Plan for Sahale is out...what else?]

I did not rope up, I was by my lonesome.

[Plan for Sahale is out...what else?]

I've only done the Sulphide once, years ago, but I don't recall any especially difficult route finding issues. I do recall it was not a long day, 7 hours car to car moving leisurely.

[Plan for Sahale is out...what else?]

Closed at MP 18 is what I read. That would add about 8-10 miles or so round trip. Sulphide Glacier on Mt Shuksan would be a great alternative. Black Peak would be another one to look at.

[Stolen Gear in REI parking garage, Portland]

USAA.

Yeah...Those were the a-holes who stone walled us and tried every trick in the book to not pay out on our insurance policy when we were robbed. They likely paid you out because your loss was small. When they are faced with paying out a significant claim they change their tune. I would never recommend USAA to anyone. Really sleazy folks.

[Using a half (double) rope for mountaineering]

Just to add to what Gene said, the forces generated in a crevasse fall are much smaller than in a lead fall on technical terrain. Also, there is also a liability issue. Half ropes are rated by the UIAA for use in pairs. If Mammut suggested otherwise they could be liable if an accident occurred due to rope failure.

 

That said, many climbers use a single strand of half rope for technical climbing. Steve House and Vince Anderson used a single 50 m, 8 mm half rope for their ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat. A lot of other climbers will bring only a single half with the idea that if the terrain becomes too difficult they can fold it in half and use it as doubles. Many of the steep mountaineering routes around these parts (Liberty Ridge, NR Baker, Coleman Headwall Baker, Adams Glacier) are not that steep so any fall will likely be a sliding fall and since they are ice/snow routes the rope is not likely to be cut.

 

I personally climb on Edelweiss 'Sharp' rated half ropes. These are claimed by the manufacturer to have greater cut resistance over a sharp edge. Marketing hype perhaps, but I still feel better when using a single strand on rock.

[Petzl Micro Traxion for glacier travel?]

One thing about prusik cords is that you can use them to build rappel anchors, something I have done countless times when I burn through all the tat I've brought. Can't do that with the Traxion.

[Using a half (double) rope for mountaineering]

A half rope is perfectly fine for glacier travel. I use a 50 m, 8.5 mm Sharp rated half rope for moderate alpine routes as well as standard glacier travel. Many folks use a 'rando' rope, a 30 meter half rope for glacier travel.

[Stolen Gear in REI parking garage, Portland]

 

So if you think your insurance covers you, I strongly suggest you call your agent and make sure your policy does what you think it does.

 

Insurance companies are the biggest thieves of all. We were recently robbed to the tune of $60,000 in cash and prizes and the insurance company did everything in their power to weasel out of paying, even on items we had floaters for.

[Intro winter alpine routes?]

NE Slab of the Tooth is not something I would recommend, it is very conditional, often not well protected. NE Buttress on Chair I have found enjoys a longer season than the NF.

 

I started compiling a list of winter climbs, many of which are good in late fall and early spring. Here are a few you might be interested in:

 

Colfax Peak

Cosley-Houston Route

 

West Twin Sister

West Ridge

 

Mt Shuksan

North Face

NW Couloir

 

Silver Star Mountain

West Face Central Couloir

 

South Early Winter Spire

South West Couloir

 

North Early Winter Spire

Early Winters Couloir (East Face)

 

Eldorado Peak

NW Ice Couloir

 

Davis Peak

NW Face Couloir http://www.ademiller.com/climbing/galle ... /index.htm

 

Mixup Peak

West Face Couloir

 

Dragontail Peak

NE Couloir http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr'>http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=853017

Triple Couloirs

Direct North Face

 

Colchuck Peak

NE Couloir

North Ridge Couloir

 

Argonaut Peak

NE Couloir

 

Mt Stuart

Stuart Glacier Couloir

 

Chair Peak

NE Buttress

North Face

 

Bryant Peak

North Face

 

Abiel Peak

North Face (several)

 

Mt Kent

North Face (several) http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=868676

 

Lane Peak

The Zipper

The Fly

 

Pinnacle Peak (Tatoosh Range)

North Ridge

 

 

Mt Hood

North Face (Two options)

Reid Glacier Headwall

 

Silver Star Mountain - West Face Central Couloir III AI2 M4

 

Hall Peak - NW Face III 5.6 WI3

 

 

[Multi-Climbs:Sherpa+Argonaut and Argonaut+Colchuck]

Argonaut and Colchuck (WF) have been enchained before, as well as the entire Stuart-Dragontail chain.

[Ingall's Peak, East Ridge - Sunday, Aug 4]

A friend who doesn't visit this web site often has some photos of a climbing party on the East Ridge of Ingall's Peak from Sunday, August 4th. Email nstrait@hotmail.com if you would like copies.

 

[Torment Forbidden Traverse Footwear]

There is a significant traverse on snow or possibly ice. Lightweight mountaineering boots with stiff soles and steel crampons are my choice. And rock shoes because I am a sucky rock climber.

[[TR] Waddington - Second Ascent of the McNerthney Pillar 7/20/2013]

That last photo was really something. How many times did you have to take the photo to get that image?

[[TR] North Cascades - Pickets Traverse-Little Beaver to Sourdough Trail 7/18/2013]

Pickets traverses are so hot right now. Very nice stuff.

[[TR] Johannesburg Mountain and Cascade Peak - CJ Couloir to East Ridge and NW Chimney 7/27/2013]

John,

 

I thought about you and Doug when I read this trip report. Good to see you getting out in the hills again.

 

LOVE the writing on this TR. Up there with the greats, Ivan and Uncle Tricky. Keep on posting.

[2nd Edition thoughts]

Maybe this is germane only to me, but I'd love a book with good tips on coming back from serious injury/illness. e.g. cancer, organ transplants, loss of mobility, loss of eyesight, etc.

[West Face NEWS rappel route]

Sure would be nice to have a to the top of Liberty Bell, or should I call it a telepherique to sound swiss? At minimum a Via Ferrata next to the Beckey route...

How did I know this thread would end up with a Via Ferrata on Liberty Bell?

[Camp Muir Advise]

Tents sites are pretty obvious when you get to Muir, many folks choose to pitch their tents on the Cowlitz side of Camp Muir. These sites are on snow which will be your water source. You may need a shovel to level a platform.

 

Also, consider the Muir shelter. I prefer to sleep there when its not full (bring a tent to Paradise and ask the rangers if there may be space). Other folks do not like the public shelter though, maybe it is an acquired taste. Staying in the Muir shelter has the benefit of going lighter (no tent) plus you get to share a bunk with a couple dozen of your new closest friends.

[West Face NEWS rappel route]

Just to play devil's advocate, how much do a few bolts detract from the wilderness experience compared with the highway which allows a 30 minute approach?