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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    best belay jacket?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    im looking for a new belay jacket.

     

    looking for synthetic, ultra warm, waterproof or resistant, and a tough fabric.

     

    recommendations?

     

    Wild Things Belay Parka. Epic W/B fabric, Primaloft One insulation, as warm or warmer than any synthetic parka out there. Nice, athletic cut. As it so happens, I have one I would sell you. Size medium, blue, one small tear on the shoulder - patched with fabric from the manufacturer.

     

    I bought it specifically for AK and Rainier in the winter and other cold trips. As Jared said, overkill for most other trips around here.

    [TR] Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier 7/12/2014

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    one can instead head straight up and stay to the left of the seracs that divide the Kautz from the Nisqually. There are cracks but in the end one comes pretty close to Pt. Success

     

    Alex and I did this variation when we climbed the Kautz and ended up on Pt. Success, which was kind of cool as I have now been on all of the sub summits of Rainier.

    Lubricating cams?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    What do folks like for lubricating their cams? I've heard WD40 is not recommended because it attracts dirt, but Triflow gets really gummy and I have to clean them in boiling water to restore the action. What should I be using to maintain the smooth action.

    Pretty cool rescue

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    As for leaving the pack part of me is surprised the victim did not take it with him. However, the rescue crews are taught not to bother with anything other than the victim. That said at 4:40 it would appear the victim motioned over his shoulder to get the pack. The PJ probably told him to leave it.\

    PJs will not in any circumstance allow someone they are rescuing to bring their pack. It is purely punitive although they will make some lame excuse as to throwing off the balance or some such shit.

    best technical pants?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I just returned a pair of Patagonia Simple Guide Pants that began disintegrating after my first trip in them.

    You have to look for the pants that are marketed as J-burg proof.

     

    Those tights you wore definitely were not J'Berg proof. Those lasted all of one trip, correct?

    [TR] Johannesburg in da rain - Dan's Direct & East Face 7/5/2014

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    It was a treat climbing with Anastasia whose obvious love of the mountains is infectious. It is hard to feel down about poor weather when climbing with someone like her. She too, is easy. One piece alpine anchors? Not a problem. Rapping off a single nut or Bugaboo piton (after the fat guy carrying the pack raps first with an unweighted backup)? Sure thing.

     

    One of the best parts of the trip was reading the summit register. Every name in it was familiar to me. If I did not know that climber personally, then I knew their partner for that trip. I felt that inscribing my name was like joining a secret fraternity of Cascade hard men and women.

     

    The East Face variation felt like a 'classy' alternative to the true East Ridge. Very alpine feeling. A great climb with a great partner. Thanks for the good times.

    Paradise Questions

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Whittaker mountaineering just a few miles outside of the park entrance opens at 7am. I don't know if they sell fuel but I can't see why they wouldn't.

     

    If you eat at their restaurant, you will get gas at no extra cost.

    MSR Pocket Rocket fuel consumption?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I think around 2 oz per person, per day is fairly accurate. So, for an overnight an 8oz canister for a 2 person party. I always plan for 2 extra days of fuel just in case.

     

    Some tips with the Pocket Rocket.

    - 16 oz fuel canisters are a bit lighter than 2 8 oz canisters.

    - Sleep with the can to keep it warm.

    - While cooking, set the canister in a dish (Tupperware lid works well) of warm water to improve cold weather performance.

    - Brunton makes a stove stand that works with the Pocket Rocket that makes it more stable and allows you to use a wind screen. It is worth the weight. The canister is connected by a flexible tube so you can invert the canister to force fuel into the burner in cold weather.

    - I spent some time tinkering in my garage to improve the Pocket Rocket's efficiency. I reduced fuel consumption and burn time by about 30% with a heat exchanger and a good pot.

    - I built a simple heat exchanger by crimping an MSR windscreen and then riveting it together. Kind of a poor man's version of the Reactor.

    - The most efficient pot I found is a one liter, black anodized, aluminum, tall, narrow pot.

    [TR] Ingalls Peaks - Ingalls Peaks Traverse 6/15/2014

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Thanks for the TR, particularly for the pic of Stuart. A buddy and I will be in Seattle in about a week for a conference and are planning on climbing the N Ridge of Stuart. Can you provide any additional info on the how much snow we can expect?

     

    Thanks,

    Jon

     

    There was still a couple of feet of snow in the higher bowls and the north side of the east ridge of Ingall's Peak held a fair amount of snow. I would expect there to be snow at the notch on the North Ridge of Stuart, and if you opt to do the gendarme bypass I would expect snowy, wet, and/or verglassed climbing. I did see a trip report for the Serpentine Arete of Dragontail, so north facing rock routes in the Enchantments are getting climbed.

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