Matt

I thought it was pretty lame when Lou said, "I don't want to die from an accident in the mountains, I want to die of old age, in my bed with the television on." Come on Lou! I'd rather die sport climbing than watching tv. I'd rather die bowling! What kind of montain climbing maven says he'd like to die watching television?

Over the holidays I read "Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Guide" and now I understand what all the hoopla is all about! This man is the undisputed king of the mountain! What an ego! I've been putting off climbing Mt. Rainer for too long now. This year I'm going to do it and my inspiration will be Big Lou. I'm curious if any cc.commers are members of the "Rim Club." Sounds like fun! Awesome book! A must for any Washington climber's shelf!

Practice good OPSEC, isn't that what you boys are taught?

[ 12-07-2001: Message edited by: Matt ]

One Friday night this past summer my partner and I were camping out in the parking lot for Giant Green Buttress, hoping to get an early start on Dreamer. I was sleeping in the back of my Pathfinder and he was sleeping out under the stars. I woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of him throwing rocks all over the place. He told me in the morning that "several" coyotes had surrounded him while he was sleeping and were sniffing him. He was all tied up in his mummy bag and woke up totally freaked out. I told him if they had been wolves then maybe they would have tried to eat him. He didn't think this was funny.

I'm using a Powerbook too w/ OS 9.1 and I could not for the life of me log on to the chat room. I also noticed on "The Climbers Wall" screen it said the chat room was empty but when I checked "Who's Online" there was a party going on in there. I'm with you Hikerwa, once you go Mac, you never go back.

I think it's time to have a guest speaker at the Pub Club. My vote goes to either a Pope/Peter Puget Duo or Dan Larson. What do you say guys? I think your online conversations are entertaining and all, but add some rowdy climbers and alcohol into the mix and it could be really fun! That Erik dude is sketchy.

quote: Originally posted by pope: You won't hear one of the "trad" climbers that you despise whimpering because somebody swiped his rack of hexes and his rugby shirt. I'll bet you an oval biner there's some whiny trad climber out there because it seems like everytime I go climbing I find booty and plenty of it is trad booty. I've found almost a complete set of nuts including a nut tool this year. I also found a cam though I don't think I'll use it-- too smashed up. I'm amazed at all the new gear I find at the crags. Whatever Pope. Crack climbing, face climbing, it's all the same. It's all good.

I am looking for partners to ski with at Stevens during the week. I have a very flexible schedule and can go almost any day with a little warning. I plan on going up once a week, maybe more if the snow is good. I telemark, but please don't hold that against me. I won't hold it against you if you snow board. We don't have to ski together, I am really looking for someone to car pool with, but if our abilities are similar then by all means we should take a few runs together. It's looking like it will be a great season! Send me an email or PM if interested. matthew_heller@hotmail.com

I recently built a home climbing board in my garage. I browsed the "how-to" books at REI but didn't think it was necessary to bring one home. My wall is simple. I framed a 4'x8' piece of plywood and attached it to the wall with heavy duty hinges at the bottom and adjustible chains and eye bolts at the top so the angle of the wall can be changed. I like the chains because I can let it hang out at 130 degrees for good work outs, and then pull it back flush to the wall when I'm done so it doesn't hog all the space in the garage. I suggest the Metolius website for basic guide lines: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto_buildwall.htm Like this: Good luck! [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: Matt ]

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Were the hangers removed in such a way that a person leading one of the routes could be put into an unexpected and dangerous situation? Well, yes and no. No one will start up any of the sport climbs that have had their hangers removed so in that case the only consequence will be fewer people climb the routes. However, I can imagine someone topping out on a route that used to have bolted anchors and instead the leader has to build an anchor with natural pro. It could be argued that these bolted anchors were put in for convenience, but I think in many cases they help prevent climbers from screwing around with all the loose choss at the top of the cliff. I myself appreciate the extra level of safety bolted anchors provide. Yes, the danger level just stepped up a notch at Frenchman Coulee. Be careful.

The bolts were left intact, only the hangers were taken. Of course there are several routes in the area that have been chopped, but the chopping was done long ago and is nothing new. (I'm referring to the chopping of bolts on Red M&Ms and the bolting-chopping-rebolting of Whipsaw.) I'd also like to add that while I agree with Charlie that this is unacceptable, I do not think this is terrorism. This is theft and vandalism, but calling it terrorism is IMHO inappropriate and only escalates the hostilities between parties. Charlie, when you called this a cowardly act you were spot on.

I was climbing at the Sunshine Wall today and noticed several sport routes had their hangers removed. I believe all of the hangers were taken off Narlux. Another route to the left of Narlux had its hangers removed, maybe Boschido? Many anchors and rappel stations had their hangers removed, including those located at the top of Party in Your Pants. I am not sure, but in all maybe 40 - 50 hangers were removed. Why was this done? Who is responsible for this? Is this in reaction to something that happened at the FCCC meeting on 1 Dec 01? This concerns me greatly. We do not need a bolt war in Washington. Ps. Hi Charlie. Nice meeting you.

I went up to Stevens Pass for opening day yesterday. The snow was great! Deep powder, definitely sticky (on another post Mike Adamson said something about the same conditions near Chair Peak), but it kept coming down all day! Had to just point the tips straight down and go or else risk getting stuck in the bottomless powder. Of course, with tele skis it wasn't so hard to get out, but I saw lots of snowboarders wallowing in the thick of it. [ 11-30-2001: Message edited by: Matt ]

I have climbed Huntington Ravine in January in a pair of old school leather boots with insulated supergators on them. They worked adequately, though if I had owned plastic boots at the time I would have worn the plastics instead. Even though Mt. Washington is barely over 6,000 feet it can get very cold up there-- think Mt. Rainer cold. I'm sure you've heard the story about the UNH college boy who died trying the Presidential Traverse a few winters back. His partner wrote a story about it-- I think it was published in Climbing. I'd say if you like your feet, wear your warmest stuff.

quote: Originally posted by Silentpartner: It won't be the first time I've packed shoes and a chalk bag for a destination that may have no climbing anywhere close, but better to be prepared. You might have some trouble packing your chalk bag.

Saturday my partner bailed on me so I hiked up Mount Si with my dog Scout. Ran into Bill aka "To The Top." In spite of the fact that his girl friend was visiting from Sweden he stopped to say hi. Scout sniffed lots of butts-- sorry Bronco, but a dog's gotta do what a dog's gotta do. Butt sniffin' and high steppin'. I laughed at all the dorks wearing plastic mountaineering boots. Sunday I went climbing at Tieton. It was cold, but not too cold. It was cloudy on the east side of Rainer, but sunny and clear on the west side-- I couldn't figure it out. Shouldn't the east side be in the mountain's rain shadow? We didn't see another soul rock climbing, but the gun shots echoed throughout the canyon. I think I saw a Blue Heron. Does anyone know if there are Blue Herons in the Tieton River Valley?

Kevin Pogue is a geology professor at Whitman College. He has a website outlining rock climbing areas close to Walla Walla. Whitman also has a decent climbing wall, as far as I know the only one in Walla2. http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing.html By far the coolest sport climbing area near Wally World is Spring Mountain. Try and get there before it's covered in snow!

Daisy, According to Jeff Smoot's web site there is a new Vantage guide scheduled to come out soon. Does anyone have the inside scoop on this? http://climbingwashington.com/routeinfo/#Vantage

quote: Originally posted by panther: If you look at your history books Israel has a history of restraint, yet when backed into a corner they always seem to KILL EVERYONE neccessary to get the job done. Don't get me wrong, I am a zionist and fully support the US policy towards Israel, but PM Ariel Sharon is bad for Israel, bad for peace, and has shown time and time again he lacks any restraint.

If retaliation were an effective response to terrorism, Israel would be the safest place in the world.

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: All in all, a good way to give back a little to a pasttime which has given a lot to me. In this time of national crisis I think the best thing we can do is volunteer and try to give something back to the community in which we live. Saturday was an absolute blast and I look forward to the next opportunity to work with the Access Fund. This state has so many cool climbing areas and it was really wonderful to see climbers working together to protect what we love. There are many ways to celebrate this sport/lifestyle which all of us are deeply passionate about. I think working with the Access Fund is one of the best ways to show your appreciation for the sport. I can't wait to go back to the Tieton and climb some more of those amazing cracks. Only 2 1/2 hours from Tacoma and less crowded than Vantage!!! Thanks Andy!

For those of you who would like to learn more about Afghanistan, let me inform you of the following: The Daniel J. Evans School of Public Affairs Student Organization invitesyou to a film screening to benefit Human Rights Watch: JUNG (WAR) IN THE LAND OF THE MUJAHEDIN A Human Rights Watch film festival award winning documentary by FabrizioLazzaretti and Alberto Vendemmiati (2000). WHEN: Wednesday, November 28 at 7:00 PM WHERE: University of Washington, Kane Hall 130 Suggested donation: $5 In this beautifully produced look at Afghanistan, an Italian surgeon and awar correspondent join forces and set up a hospital in a country that hascoped with war for the last twenty years. After the Russians, the Talibantook society firmly into their grasp. Houses and schools have beenburned, sons killed on the battlefield and almost everybody is hungry.Meanwhile, tanks have conquered the mountains, soldiers and trigger-happy,and the rugged landscape is strewn with mines, which maim countlessvictims every day. The new hospital tries to help these war victims, butthe surgeon gets discouraged at times because the situation is nowherenear ending. For more information on Human Rights Watch's Afghanistan campaign, see www.hrw.org/campaigns/afghanistan/index.htm

Best climber job = mattress tester Pros:1. paid to sleep in a different bed every night 2. Some nights you sleep alone, some nights you don’t3. Days are free to climb Cons1. doesn’t pay very well2. work at night3. one must have complete dedication to the job, often spending 12 to 16 hours in bed

I’m looking for a ride to the Tieton River this weekend. I’d like to volunteer and do some trail work with the Access Fund on Saturday and then climb on Sunday. I’m up for just about anything, but climbs somewhere between 5.8 – 5.11 are fun for me. I’ve given money to the Access Fund and I thought it was time to do something. Email me at matthew_heller@hotmail.com.