robertm

Looks like a relatively new glue-in to me. If it doesn't twist with a fair amount of torque it should be good to go.

I climbed it about the same time of the year as you and took a tool, crampons and light rack (stoppers, alpine draws, a few pins and 4 cams) -- you could make it harder but there was always an escape to easier ground. Crux was up a gully / corner with good pro and rock at 5.5. Will try to find a photo or two.

That ridge directly up from Headlee is a fun adventure as well to the summit of Sperry. Mid 5th with some decent rock finding the path of least resistance.

Anything else worth doing back there? Looks like rock quality varies as you go north?

I agree with @JasonG -- great peak all the way around and probably my most frequented in the cascades. I have climbed it many times from all directions. S. face sort of scares me due to reputation and I still haven't done the NW Ridge which looks really good looking at it from N. Ridge.

thanks for the great TR. brings back lots of memories! your pictures really show how much that glacier has changed from what I remember over 20 years ago!

When I did it I used GTX adidas mid top light hiking boots with aluminum strap on crampons. I appreciated a bit more support of the mid-tops vs. low top trail shoe as there is some steep snow between Torment and Forbidden that you will need to dispatch.

Fred was always looking ahead for his next adventure. He never wanted to re-hash his past accomplishments. He was a true explorer that did immaculate research and sacrificed the comforts of modern life to advance knowledge of the mountains and live a purpose driven life. I was lucky enough to call Fred a friend and see a side of him that was insightful, always curious about new technology and interested in what was going on in your life. He is still missed.

@Kyle M the NE Buttress of Chair is one of my favorites. It climbs well (at AI3 / M4) in most conditions with good pro on the rock. The mental crux for me is usually the ice step towards the top -- usually thin with marginal ice pro. So, if you don't like the N. Face -- jump on the NE Buttress since you are right there!

awesome loop, larches and without the maple pass crowds :-)

Wow -- looks really amazing. Not a terrible approach -- certainly looks easier than the Northern Pickets.

I was on Nooksack a few years back and there was a party of two that had just finished Price at around 2PM. They didn't know it but not five minutes after they got off the face the shrund broke and collapsed down the entire glacier to the lake below. It swept the entire thing and resulted in a small tsunami in the lake. It would have been pretty bad news for any one on that face. Lesson would be to climb it in cold / dark conditions. It sees a fair amount of sun.

What a great chunk of rock. Awesome pictures... thanks for posting this TR!

That thing looks sweet!

57 is probably more popular since that is in Jim's book?

Fred always said that the established trails are always the way to go unless you just want an adventure... and most will just do the adventure once.

Reminds me of a foray up the East face of Gunsight years ago. The route just wasn't there and nothing lined up in terms of the topo. Death blocks and sharp granite shards everywhere with intermittent rockfall. Glad you made it up and out!

I agree that Rebel Yell, P to B and Clean Break are really good. I have done all of those. WA pass area is interesting in that pitch to pitch you can get varying quality of rock -- from Sierra like to terrifying kitty litter. I haven't done the complete traverse in a day as I have run out of motivation each time I have attempted it. Maybe I need to give that another go via the quickest routes up each formation. For the traverse what do you guys suggest -- North to South or South to North?

I have climbed that one a few times. good times. I think clean break was very good. Chianti rebel yell was good except for the chicken wing squeeze first pitch...

those are great! it has been a long time since I did the DEB of SES. Might need to give it another go. I agree that the Paisano to Burgundy link up is really good. Any thoughts on Minute Man east face or Lexington?

If you could only do three routes in WA Pass 5.10+ or under -- what would they be?

Great trip! The Pickett's are almost always a humbling experience even if you are successful.

nice work, that traverse around Sherpa is a PITA. I also underestimated how long that would take.

Rad, awesome write up and pictures! Thanks for bringing me along on your journey. Goode is still on my list so it is great to read this TR.