mthorman

Great pictures guys, and another awesome ascent. As Joe said, you guys have had quite the run this spring! Good luck down in CA Goran, the Sierras are amazing too!

Great job guys! That is impressive to do it all in one push from the car...very fast! Interesting to see how much of a change in snow conditions 3 weeks can make.

Great job guys!! Nice write up and excellent pictures! Marlin

On Saturday the conditions on the Sherpa Glacier/couloir were pretty similar. There were a few areas of wind loading powder (8-12") in the upper coulior but we just avoided those areas to the left or right. Great job on getting the ICG route the next day. We wondered how much new snow dropped that night on the upper mountain. Glad you were able to use our tracks, and that they weren't filled in! Did you guys go all the way up to the summit of Stuart or just descent from the top of the Ice Cliff Glacier route?

Nice photos! Wow glad the outcome wasn't any worse in the avalanche. I was up climbing SGC on Stuart that day and we were definitely on high alert for avy conditions. Thankfully the couloirs we climbed for ascent and descent don't get that much sun and didn't have nearly that much unconsolidated snow.

It was a great climb and one I will look back on with good memories. Joe did a great write up, so I don't have much to add. But here is a brief itinerary of summit day (for those curious about times). 2:40am - Rise and Shine 3:45am - Lead out of camp 8:00am - Enter the bottom of the Stuart Glacier Couloir 10:45am - Reach the notch on the west ridge 4:00pm - Reach the summit 5:30pm - Top of Sherpa Couloir 7:15pm - Back to camp Now on to the pictures! Hiking up 8 mile road on the approach to Stuart. The view of Stuart on the approach in through the valley. A close up of the north aspect of Mt. Stuart. Stuart Glacier Couloir can be seen on the far right side. The descent via Sherpa Couloir is on the left leading down to Sherpa Glacier. We had a beautiful view from our tent at 5,400 ft at the base of Mt. Stuart. Sunrise over the enchantments. This was taken from somewhere up on the Stuart Glacier. Joe leading into the start of the actual Stuart Glacier Couloir. Looking down the route from about 8,700 ft on the upper snowfield in the couloir. Joe is coming up the in the bottom left of the photo. Joe racking up at the notch on the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Typical conditions to what we found on the west ridge. Lots of snow and ice covered rock. Looking farther up the west ridge. Our pitch 2 went up this and around to the left side of the ridge. Joe rappelling a short section between pitches 3 and 4. Descending the east ridge trying to get out of the clouds and wind. Finally below cloud level. This is taken looking down the Sherpa Couloir (our descent) with Sherpa Peak in the background. Joe descending Sherpa Couloir.

Between ice climbing in the winter, mountaineering in the spring/summer, alpine in the summer/fall, and rock all year I don't have much more time. However I do enjoy the below hobbies. 1. Backpacking 2. Outdoor photography 3. Road biking 4. Canoeing

Found and Returned! Thanks!!

Umm, if you read the original post you will see that Mr. Swenson has completed day trips to Camp Muir multiple times. Also nowhere does he state whether or not he has been practicing glacier skills, crevasse rescue and other mountaineering topics. Unfortunately everyone seems to have jumped to the conclusion that Mr. Swenson hasn't done anything practically to prepare for such a trip. I don't know him so I don't know if he has or not. But just because someone didn't list any book or skill practicing doesn't mean they haven't done it. Good luck on your quest Frank! I hope you can find a group to go with. Be sure you have a long enough weather window, so your chances of success will be greater.

I was climbing at Vantage yesterday (March 11), and I accidentally left my Marmot jacket (thin insulation and blue), a black synthetic long sleeve shirt (size medium), and an Outdoor Research Exos Beanie (size large) at Vantage on the Sunshine wall. I think they got left near the base of Air Guitar or Tangled up in Blue on the Sunshine Wall. It was getting hot and I somehow forgot about them. If you find them I would appreciate them back! Email/phone westbnsf@gmail.com 509-710-3867 Thanks, Marlin Thorman

As far as a rope is concerned that is sometimes a matter of preference. Some people aren't comfortable without a rope on the last steep section. One thing to keep in mind if you are using a rope is snow conditions. I have been on mountains where it was too ice to self arrest. So if you fell you would just pull the rest of the whole team off too. At that point it might be best to turn around, but for sure I would say no on a rope. Better for one person to fall then one person to drag the entire rope team down. There have been instances in the past of falling rope teams tangling up with teams below them and dragging everyone down into the sulfur holes on Mt. Hood. If I were to climb the south side of Mt. Hood I won't take a rope personally. But then again that is personal preference. I am sure there will be others with difference views. Good luck with your climb. Make sure you get a good weather day and practice your self arrest before you go!

Wow...very impressive!! That is such a striking line, and your photos are very excellent in quality! +1 to more pictures. Congrats on a great climb.

Awesome job on a sweet looking climb...stoked!!

Trip: Montana Ice 2/2 through 2/8 Trip Report: I met up with Peter on Sunday morning in Spokane and we headed to Montana for a week of ice. Temperatures were forecasted to be cold, but we figured we could still get some climbing in. The plan was to sleep in the back of his truck at the trailhead to Hyalite Canyon and climb a lot of ice. Monday we got some mileage in by climbing G1, G2, Hangover, and both right and left flows of Upper Green Sleeves. The next morning (Tuesday) dawned clear and cold.....-25F cold!! We took our time before heading up to try Scepter, hoping the temps would improve. The hike kept us warm, however stopping to rack up and actually climb the route proved to be too much. The temperature was still hanging around -20F, so we turned tail and ran. Back in Bozeman we mulled over options. The next day was only supposed to be colder in Hyalite so we turned our sights west to Missoula. It turned out to be a great choice, as Wednesday we enjoyed a stimulating hike up the beautiful Blodgett Canyon. With temperatures around zero, we climbed Blodgett Falls under sunny skies. The lower steep section was great ice, although the upper section contained some thin and rotten ice. With the worst of the cold over, we drove back to Bozeman on Thursday and gave Scepter another attempt. The ice was great and the sun was out. The only problem was that even in -5F the afternoon sun melted enough of the ice to make the climbing similar to climbing in a shower. This lead to frozen jackets, frozen pants, frozen hands, frozen screws....frozen everything! It took quite a bit of running the truck that night to dry things back out. Friday was the best day. We hiked in to the East Fork of Hyalite Canyon with hopes of finding Alpha and Omega. Peter had been to them before but without a well broken trail it took awhile to find our way up to the climbs. The trail breaking was well worth it however, as they turned out to be in excellent fat condition. Both the climbs spill over the cliff then turn into vertical free standing pillars with a neat cave behind them. The ice was terrific and the sun even came out to smile on us for awhile. In the afternoon we hiked over to Palisade Falls for a quick lap before heading back to the truck. Saturday morning we got out just long enough to climb a couple of easier climbs at the amphitheater in Hyalite canyon. I led Fat Chance which was my first ice lead! Then went on to climb Thin Chance and Switchback Falls. Even though it was fairly early in the day we started the long drive back to Spokane, because I had to be at work by 8am on Sunday. And now on to some pictures. Peter leading a line on the Genesis 1 wall with the slopes of Elephant Mountain rising far above in the background. Breaking trail on the approach to Blodgett Falls near Hamilton, MT Peter leading the lower section of Blodgett Falls under sunny blue skies. Peter surveys the route above after making the initial move onto the front of the pillar Omega. Me climbing the stellar pillar of Alpha on a sunny day in the East Fork. Approaching Palisade Falls in the East Fork of Hyalite. Peter mid way up Palisade Falls. Approach Notes: Snowshoes for any of the climbs in the East Fork of Hyalite (except Palisade Falls).

Nice photos, and a great job on getting that route! It looks super fun.

I climbed St Helens on December 26. Yes parking lot was clear of snow, and trail was ice. And yes the road to climber's bivy was gated. I would say you are going to have to hoof it until about 5000 ft. Passed that the route was covered in hard snow/ice. We were in crampons from that point on. Things didn't get soft by our return down either, even with the sun shining all day. Really thin snow coverage in general when we were there. Good luck, and hopefully you will have nice weather!

Go back to edit your post. Click on the camera icon which should be in the toolbar right above the text box that your words are in. Then once you click on the camera icon it should open up a new window. You will have to upload photos first (click the upload photo button). Then you can click on the photo you want inserted into your post. Hopefully that works for you!

I have had the great fortune of sharing ropes with many excellent climbers/mountaineers over the years. I have even had the opportunity to climb recreationally with several guides. And I would say that if you don't have the time for a long course or the money for a guide, then climb with lots of people. Every person has a little different view of things and brings their own tips and tricks to the trip. However here are some pointers to think about. If this is something you really want to learn, study at home out of the "Freedom of the Hills". Read articles on all subjects, watch videos, and be as familiar as possible with all the gear. Then before a trip do the research for the climb. Just because you might be going with a more experienced partner doesn't mean you shouldn't spend a couple hours pouring over photos, route details, current conditions, etc... That way on the trip your questions will be more detailed, precise, and knowledgeable. When you do go out on a trip, ask knowledgeable questions. Try to learn as much as possible to further your own information. Finally it is hard to be confident at something when you don't do it much, so get out a LOT (like as much as possible). The last advice I would give is to save up some money to spend in this field on a guide or class. Many guides are happy do a little bit of teaching especially to a person who studies a lot and is trying to gain knowledge. One day with a guide could be very helpful. Also consider a short class on certain subjects. For instance a 1 day field class on Mt. Rainier on crevasse rescue isn't too expensive or time consuming but it gives you a wealth of knowledge. Depending on what you want to learn most look for other 1 or 2 day courses in those subjects. Even if you only took 1 class a year, every bit of information helps build that knowledge and experience you rely one when you are out on a climb. Best of luck to you in your quest for knowledge!

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Depends on the snow year but as Blake said south facing alpine routes can be really good by mid/late May. And stuff lower down will definitely be snow free (snow creek wall at Leavenworth etc). I climbed Eldorado Peak by the East ridge last May and would recommend that. Also depends on snow conditions but end of May could be the beginning of the season for Rainier (meaning the guide service usually gets the DC wanded about that time). Have fun in your research!

Some things to think about when buying a harness might be the adjustable vs. elastic leg loops and a pre-threaded vs. non pre-threaded waist belt. Both are more personal preference, but some people really like/dislike certain things. I have been using Black Diamond harnesses for over 5 years. I first had the Momentum AL but have since upgraded to the Aspect. I personally love the Aspect. For me it is a good compromise between being light weight/packable and enough padding to hang a little. Although I wouldn't want to use it as a big wall harness. It has a couple spots to attach ice screw racking biners. Also has plenty of space for a larger trad rack. My only dislike of the harness is that the waist belt doesn't come all the way undone (well it actually can, but it isn't very easy). Good luck in your search! Once you have narrowed down your options to 1 or 2 you might try Spadout.com to look for the best deals.

First I just want to say thanks for bringing this paper to our attention. I think it has some very valuable information and makes people stop and think a little more about placement. As a new ice climber, this paper reminds me of the importance of going with competent people to gain a lot of experience before I start leading.

Depends on the year, but Banks Lake gets good ice if the conditions are right. I don't know of anything else that is close and consistent.

Am I missing something? I don't see a price anywhere.

Really beautiful country up there! Congrats on making the summit and great photos.