mthorman

Awesome photos! Looks like you guys had a stellar weekend with great weather and fun climbing!

Just climbed it this week. If you send me a email to westbnsf@gmail.com I will send you back my track log from the trip. It is a super straight forward route with a very solid boot pack right now.

Trip: Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge Date: 6/1/2014 Trip Report: With the recent disaster that occurred on Liberty Ridge I was reluctant to post this Trip report. However with no recent TR’s and plenty of people asking me about route conditions and beta here it is. As I think back on the trip it was a good trip yet a sad trip. A trip I will never forgot as we watched the aftermath search of the horrible incident that took the lives 6 other climbers. Several months ago my friend Brett and I conjured up a plan to climb Mount Rainier’s classic line, Liberty Ridge. We convinced Kirt to come with us which wasn’t hard and decided to just go when the route and weather were good. With high winds and possibility of snow over Memorial weekend we anxiously waited for things to improve. The forecast looked good for the next weekend so we finalized the trip and started packing. The road into White River campground was supposed to open mid-week but when we arrived on Thursday afternoon it was still closed. We were told it would open at 8am in the morning, but we wanted to get an early start to avoid the heat and post holing in the soft snow. So we opted to ride our bikes the 5 miles from the ranger station to the campground. Friday we were hiking but a little after 6am. The trail was great and free of snow up to about the 4,800 foot line. However there was a good boot pack on the snow and it was crunchy at that time in the morning. We made the long plod up to St. Elmo’s pass were we stopped to rope up for the glacier crossing. After dropping down onto the Winthrop Glacier we took a direct line more or less across the glacier staying with the contour. It was pretty well filled in and navigation wasn’t an issue. After crossing the lower Curtis Ridge we made camp at 7,400 ft overlooking the Carbon glacier and the entire north face of Rainier. Spent the afternoon drying gear, napping or just hanging out in the tent to avoid the sun. Saturday was going to be a short day, just moving camp to Thumb rock. However we again left early in order to avoid the heat and soft snow. As we were crossing the Carbon in the early morning we could see a team of 2 and a team of 3 leaving Thumb rock camp just after 6am heading up the ridge. The Carbon Glacier had a well established boot track and the going was easy. We opted to cross the bergshrund early and ascend up the right side of the toe to reach the lower ridge. We thought about taking the Carbon Glacier all the way up to the natural fall line from Thumb rock and then taking that up, but we were unsure if the bergshrund could be crossed. As it turned out several other teams later in the day took that route and said it was pretty good. Once on the lower ridge we unroped and headed up. The lower ridge up to thumb rock was in good shape and the route switched between the right and left sides of the ridge a couple times. We only had 1 steep rock section that was about a 8 foot vertical step. We arrived at Thumb rock around 9am to find a couple of nice tent spots. Spent some time improving one of them and setting up camp. About this time a helicopter flew in and started searching the upper Carbon Glacier where it meets the Willis Wall. Unfortunately as it turned out the 2nd worst disaster on Rainier was in the process of unfolding. There are still many unknowns in the entire incident and unfortunately they will probably be that way. Everyone wants to know what went wrong, what happened, but sometimes stuff just happens. It was a sobering afternoon as we watched both the small park helicopter and the large Chinook helicopter search the Willis Wall, and debris field at the base. We could see man made objects such as tents, sleeping bags or such being blown around in the rotor wash of the helicopter down on the Carbon. My sincere condolences go out to the families of the six who were lost as well as the AAI guiding community as a whole. Accidents happen, but they are never easy to understand or recover from. We rose at midnight from the tent and begin the cold tasks of breaking camp and packing. The weather was clear and the lights from Seattle twinkled way down in the valley. We began our ascent unroped about 1:15am. The trail was well broken in and the steps were large and frozen solid making travel very easy and fast. The route made an immediate left out of thumb rock then climbed back to the right to gain the ridge above. From there it mostly stayed on the ridge crest or to the right. Just below the Black Pyramid it veered left and then up a short vertical step of rock before again gaining the ridge crest. At the Black Pyramid we were forced out left onto the face. The route usually stays fairly close to the edge of the pyramid, however we found solid alpine ice. There was a very faint track that traversed way out left and well on the upper face of the Willis wall. The conditions here were 2-6 inches of snow over hard alpine ice. Sometimes the snow was soft and powdery and other times it was hard and windblown. The consequences of a fall here are huge and so we decided to rope up and put in some protections. I led out and we simul-climbed the next 500 feet or so. I put in an ice screw every 100ish feet. The climbing itself wasn’t hard, but it was engaging and just steep enough to keep you on your toes. The higher we went to the more snow we found over ice. The last screw I put in, I had to dig down about 16 inches through snow to find the ice. As the angle eased up and the snow became more solid we arrived shortly to the more level terrain of the Liberty Camp Glacier. The sun peaked over the horizon and enveloped the us with its warm rays. After a short break we continued on towards the upper bergshrund and the last obstacle which usually includes a short section of ice climbing. The route however took a right turn and headed up a short snow gully that was about 45 degrees for 1 rope length. It was easy going and it deposited us above the bergshrund and on the upper glacier. I was a little disappointed about not having any ice section to climb but I guess that changes as the season changes. After a short snow slog we were standing on Liberty Cap by 6:45am. With plenty of time left and a beautiful windless day we opted to traverse over and climb up the Columbia Crest. After a few summit photos we headed down the Emmons/Winthrop Glacier towards camp Schurman. We passed Schurman about noon and quickly continued down towards Glacier Basin. It was hot out on the snow and without the slightest breeze to cool us down, all we could think about was descending to the shade. Reaching the trail we pounded out the 3 miles back to the campground in a quick hour. After retrieving our bikes we had stashed we enjoyed the breeze of the 5 mile downhill ride back to the White River Ranger station and our car. We arrived back at the car at 2:45pm making for a 13 1/2 hour day from camp. I bade farewell to Kirt and Brett as they headed back to Spokane. I drove around the mountain to Paradise to meet up with my uncle and father-in-law for a trip of the Disappointment Cleaver. We had a fairly relaxed itinerary with day 1 to Muir, day 2 to Ingraham Flats, day 3 summit, and day 4 descent. But with a long summit day of Liberty Ridge on Sunday the slog up to Muir on Monday was a long one. We had a great trip and I enjoyed the summit of Rainier for the 2nd time in 3 days making for a fun week on the mountain. Riding our bikes on the White River Road from the White River Ranger station to the trailhead. Crossing the Winthrop Glacier with Curtis Ridge in the background. A close up of the upper section of Liberty Ridge showing the current conditions. Note the several large sections of shiny ice. The snow all around that is just a few inches of snow on the same hard ice. Crossing the Carbon Glacier near the toe of Liberty Ridge. Note the well broken in boot path on the right side of the photo. Ascending the lower slopes of Liberty Ridge in route to Thumb Rock. The Chinook helicopter over Willis Wall searching for the missing climbers. Sunrise high on Liberty ridge. The only downside to leaving Thumb Rock at 1:15am is that all the fun engaging climbing is over before sunrise. Note to self, leave later next time! Brett excited about the warmth of sunrise and the awesome climbing of Liberty Ridge. Me on the summit of Rainier (Columbia Crest) with Mt. Adams in the background, after climbing Liberty Ridge. Gear Notes: Normal glacier gear 30m rope 6 screws (used them all for simul-climbing the ice near the Black Pyramid. Approach Notes: Good boot pack to follow. Go early to avoid the heat and soft snow of the afternoon.

Nice job Jeff, and great pictures. Looks like a fun route. One of those headlamps over on Liberty Ridge was me. We were at Liberty Cap by 6:45am though so never saw you guys. And agreed, the slog down below Schurman was really a pain in the butt! I can only imagine how bad it would have been a couple hours later!

Hey Dmitriy, welcome to this site! I think a lot of your questions would be answered by taking a basic mountaineering class. Check out this website, http://mazamas.org/ I have no personal experience with them, but I have a friend who took their BCEP class and said it was a good basic class. They run a good intro program for those getting started. Other than that start reading books and watching videos on basic topics. Good luck as you start your climbing career!

It was fun climbing with you Ron, and looking forward to Rainier! Here are a couple pictures from the trip showing the current conditions. It was nice to see a little sun even if it wasn't in the forecast! Looking down the "Old Chute" from just below the summit ridge. Looking up the "Hogsback". Notice the large open bergshrund already.

Wow, that is impressive! That is one awesome line. I would love to do it someday just not in the conditions you guys had! Sounds like it was one of those trips you are really glad when it is over and you are in one piece.

Yea I really like NOAA and all of the different features. The other two links I use quite a bit are the "Forecast Discussion" (found on the right side bar just below the map), and the "Hourly Weather Graph" (found near the Weather Table interface link). I like the forecast discussion because it is much more detailed information and talks about different prediction models for long range. And the hourly graph really helps to see more specifics for certain hours. Combine everything together and you can get a pretty good idea of what is going to happen. Although it is still the weather, and predictions are never certain

You will also be able to hold a fall a lot easier if the thumb of your brake hand is towards the belay device. Holding the rope with the thumb away from the belay device (as in the video) makes it really awkward to even put your hand in a brake position.

I will be in Portland area this next week for a few days. I have Tuesday, May 20th free and would love to get out and climb at Ozone, the Far Side or Broughton Bluff. Happy to lead or follow trad or sport up to 5.10ish. PM, text, or email me if you have the day off and want to get out climbing. Marlin Thorman westbnsf@gmail.com 509-710-3867

A friend of mine climbed TC on Dragontail this weekend. Sounds like they just walked in. Look in the approach notes at the bottom. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1123949/TR_Dragontail_Triple_Couloirs_#Post1123949

Not sure about police but firefighters in the state of WA are covered under $100,000 state life insurance if they die on the job. Severe accidents at work would be covered under L&I, so not really sure what all that would entail in benefits. Different fire departments also have a disability retirement, but again the exact benefits would vary by department.

Just my personal opinion. If you are going into the backcountry where you think you might need to navigate by GPS, then go out and buy a good GPS. Prices have come down quite a bit over recent years, and used models are good options as well. However if you do intend to use your phone's GPS for navigation out of cell service on a mountain. I would definitely recommend trying it out on a training hike or two that is outside of cell service, but where the consequences are much less severe.

Great pictures guys, and another awesome ascent. As Joe said, you guys have had quite the run this spring! Good luck down in CA Goran, the Sierras are amazing too!

Great job guys! That is impressive to do it all in one push from the car...very fast! Interesting to see how much of a change in snow conditions 3 weeks can make.

Great job guys!! Nice write up and excellent pictures! Marlin

On Saturday the conditions on the Sherpa Glacier/couloir were pretty similar. There were a few areas of wind loading powder (8-12") in the upper coulior but we just avoided those areas to the left or right. Great job on getting the ICG route the next day. We wondered how much new snow dropped that night on the upper mountain. Glad you were able to use our tracks, and that they weren't filled in! Did you guys go all the way up to the summit of Stuart or just descent from the top of the Ice Cliff Glacier route?

Nice photos! Wow glad the outcome wasn't any worse in the avalanche. I was up climbing SGC on Stuart that day and we were definitely on high alert for avy conditions. Thankfully the couloirs we climbed for ascent and descent don't get that much sun and didn't have nearly that much unconsolidated snow.

It was a great climb and one I will look back on with good memories. Joe did a great write up, so I don't have much to add. But here is a brief itinerary of summit day (for those curious about times). 2:40am - Rise and Shine 3:45am - Lead out of camp 8:00am - Enter the bottom of the Stuart Glacier Couloir 10:45am - Reach the notch on the west ridge 4:00pm - Reach the summit 5:30pm - Top of Sherpa Couloir 7:15pm - Back to camp Now on to the pictures! Hiking up 8 mile road on the approach to Stuart. The view of Stuart on the approach in through the valley. A close up of the north aspect of Mt. Stuart. Stuart Glacier Couloir can be seen on the far right side. The descent via Sherpa Couloir is on the left leading down to Sherpa Glacier. We had a beautiful view from our tent at 5,400 ft at the base of Mt. Stuart. Sunrise over the enchantments. This was taken from somewhere up on the Stuart Glacier. Joe leading into the start of the actual Stuart Glacier Couloir. Looking down the route from about 8,700 ft on the upper snowfield in the couloir. Joe is coming up the in the bottom left of the photo. Joe racking up at the notch on the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Typical conditions to what we found on the west ridge. Lots of snow and ice covered rock. Looking farther up the west ridge. Our pitch 2 went up this and around to the left side of the ridge. Joe rappelling a short section between pitches 3 and 4. Descending the east ridge trying to get out of the clouds and wind. Finally below cloud level. This is taken looking down the Sherpa Couloir (our descent) with Sherpa Peak in the background. Joe descending Sherpa Couloir.

Between ice climbing in the winter, mountaineering in the spring/summer, alpine in the summer/fall, and rock all year I don't have much more time. However I do enjoy the below hobbies. 1. Backpacking 2. Outdoor photography 3. Road biking 4. Canoeing

Found and Returned! Thanks!!

Umm, if you read the original post you will see that Mr. Swenson has completed day trips to Camp Muir multiple times. Also nowhere does he state whether or not he has been practicing glacier skills, crevasse rescue and other mountaineering topics. Unfortunately everyone seems to have jumped to the conclusion that Mr. Swenson hasn't done anything practically to prepare for such a trip. I don't know him so I don't know if he has or not. But just because someone didn't list any book or skill practicing doesn't mean they haven't done it. Good luck on your quest Frank! I hope you can find a group to go with. Be sure you have a long enough weather window, so your chances of success will be greater.

I was climbing at Vantage yesterday (March 11), and I accidentally left my Marmot jacket (thin insulation and blue), a black synthetic long sleeve shirt (size medium), and an Outdoor Research Exos Beanie (size large) at Vantage on the Sunshine wall. I think they got left near the base of Air Guitar or Tangled up in Blue on the Sunshine Wall. It was getting hot and I somehow forgot about them. If you find them I would appreciate them back! Email/phone westbnsf@gmail.com 509-710-3867 Thanks, Marlin Thorman

As far as a rope is concerned that is sometimes a matter of preference. Some people aren't comfortable without a rope on the last steep section. One thing to keep in mind if you are using a rope is snow conditions. I have been on mountains where it was too ice to self arrest. So if you fell you would just pull the rest of the whole team off too. At that point it might be best to turn around, but for sure I would say no on a rope. Better for one person to fall then one person to drag the entire rope team down. There have been instances in the past of falling rope teams tangling up with teams below them and dragging everyone down into the sulfur holes on Mt. Hood. If I were to climb the south side of Mt. Hood I won't take a rope personally. But then again that is personal preference. I am sure there will be others with difference views. Good luck with your climb. Make sure you get a good weather day and practice your self arrest before you go!

Wow...very impressive!! That is such a striking line, and your photos are very excellent in quality! +1 to more pictures. Congrats on a great climb.