PuckerJunkie

Just want to refresh this post. Looking for a partner for Reid or similar for Saturday (6/18). Its been cold and I've been told its still in as of a few days a ago. Alex

If you can get the permits and have 2 days, Rainier DC will get you the most bang for the buck. Emmons is also a great route and permits might be easier. No technical climbing but plenty of glacier in either case.

Aaaah, got it. Great pic, btw! That last bit looks pretty sweet! I am gonna put that on my list for the next time I can't find a partner. Would you agree that heading straight up/right in 1d puts you right at the beginning of your red line? I went up that ice step in 1c about 2 weeks ago. I wouldn't have soloed that either. Though I'm sure there are some wingnuts that would.

Yes, I know this to be good advice. I am probably just too dumb to follow it.

Badass! When you say right variation, do you mean this gully? If so, does the route split under that inside tower? Did you go straight up/right, or does the route cut left and out of sight in this pic?

Nice work! Looks like you had perfect conditions! Shameless conditions request: How broken up is the Ingraham and upper mountain? Were there any bridges you wouldn't cross un-roped?

Speaking of the start of Leutholds... anyone been over there recently? How many open cracks are there?

Daaang! We encountered conditions like this in 2013 and didn't summit till midnight. Glad to add this character building experience to the list... but next time I'm turning around.

I would definitely go out of my way to attend something like this!

Spend that grand on plane tickets and copy of Freedom of the Hills. Come out here and take a crack at Hood, then find a partner on CC.com with a little glacier experience and hit Rainier in July. Shit, spend that winter boot and parka money on another plane ticket and just come in the summer!

Not to go pissing in your Cheerios, but falling from the top of the west crater rim just might do you in, especially if its firm. On most days that slope won't be soft until early afternoon. Good luck, wish I had the balls to ski it.

Haribo gummy bears, booyah!

Nice work. Where did you have to start hiking on the way down? Sun-cupping yet?

yes, really, really excellent pics!!

All my other climbing partners moved away or are stuck in crevasses. I'm looking for a partner for Reid Headwall or similar soon as the sun comes back after this cold spell. I am hoping this will be Sunday 6/12 but the forecast is deteriorating. My next days off are Thursday 6/16, Saturday 6/18, and Sunday 6/19. I have been up this route before and am willing to lead the whole thing but would prefer a swinging simul-climb scenario. If you got skis, even better!! In general I am looking for solid, long-term partners in hopes of hitting routes like Hood North Face and Liberty Ridge at some point this season. PM me so we can exchange numbers or email. Alex

Good suggestions above. Bump on Hood south side and Adams. If you got the money, buy an AT ski setup so you can skin up the boring parts and don't have to walk back down!

Just get through the gully before the ice balls get too big. Its about to get pretty cold up there for a few days so even better if you can go on the first sunny day after.

Update: DKH conditions on 5/31 Was gonna post a TR but I don't have the time, sorry folks. Also, no pics of the ice step so I'll quickly describe this here. Conditions were fine when we got into the gully around 6am. Ice placements were mostly questionable throughout the first, and seemingly only, gully. It just seemed like one long WI12-3 gully with a 15-20' WI4 step at the top. Above this crux was good snow that took bomber pickets. There was some gravel sized ice coming down all morning due to the wind up top. Eventually this died down and we were out before the sun loosened stuff started. We eventually reached a tower where it looked like the route could have gone right, but we went left and climbed over a small ice rib and down into the gully adjacent to right-most PG exit.

You mean they are still rimed in? I would have thought warm spell, and the traffic, would have cleaned it out.

Everything points to great ice conditions for DKH for Memorial day, cept for that fact that I haven't been on the mountain this year... Anyone know if DKH is still in? I am assuming steel cliffs are done from the way the mountain looks from Portland.

Here is Dan leading up some steep snow. Sorry about the pic quality, my phone sucks!

I don't think we were ever visible from from the Sandy, and even if we were it would have been dark since we didn't summit till 10ish. That's be our second ski down the mountain in the dark this season, woohoo! And hats off to the wingnuts on Yocum, that was some stout climbing!

The fact that money is involved (~$1000 to get up Rainier) fundamentally corrupts the whole process. Several examples have already been listed. When I first started climbing I paid that kind of money, but honestly I learned more from "Freedom of the Hills" and my first trip up the south side of hood. And that only cost me a couple hundred bucks to buy the gear, which I still have. Guide services are a waste of money. And frankly, as far as I'm concerned, a guided summit doesn't count.

Nice work on figuring that out! A buddy and me were gonna give it a shot this weekend but opted not to since neither of us have been on the DC in either direction. Last year I attempted the same climb but my partner got sick, right about where you took your 3rd posted pic. Looked almost exactly the same. There is another fairly wide snow chute (well it was snow last July) to the left of the waterfall when you climb off the Nisqually, you can actually see it in the contours on Google terrain. So after the Wilson, was it just a rockfest or is there any snow left to walk on before the ice?

Hey everybody, Anyone been up on the east or west ridges of Forbidden recenlty? I am particularly curious about how technical getting off the glacier for either route will be. If we can avoid carrying up a bunch of stuff that we won't use, that would be great! Thanks!