cam yarder

glad to hear you survived your fall off Responsible

there are plenty of folks that frequent index that also climb hard in the alpine. they just don't blog about it or post trip reports here.

someone must've bootied the second stuck cam because it wasn't there two weeks ago.

waking up while driving 30 mph thru a ditch on the side of the cascade river road was one of the scariest things that's happened to me. i was super lucky that i didn't hit a tree or flip the car. i was trying to stay awake with all the usual tricks: rolling down the windows, blasting shitty music, stretching in the seat and BAM, i was in the ditch. after that experience, the second that i feel i have to fight to stay awake, i pull over and take a nap, no question. i think it's irresponsible to drive while exhausted after a long day. please, if you feel your eyelids closing, pull over and rest.

what's the story with the crampons?

On July 5th, Greg Bricca and I climbed the East Face of Chianti Spire. After a good round of instant espresso at the car, we began the steep grind to the flats and up to Burgundy Col. The morning was warm and sunny so dropping onto the glacier was easy, no axe or crampons needed. I really like how you can’t see this route until you are directly under it: you cross under Burgundy Spire and hike up to the saddle there and BAM, there’s the line, right in your face. Getting onto the route was complicated by a moat. There is still a lot of snow up there! I think we climbed the upper half or third of the standard 5.8 first pitch due to the snow level. Greg and I both agreed that Rebel Yell is a spectacular route. The combination of the setting, the steep, splitter directness of the line, the exposure of the headwall and the summit boulder all make for a great climb. photos:

http://translate.google.com/#auto|en|couloir click on "listen"

was up there 2 weeks ago. no need for crampons or axes and no issue getting over the dam

Why a bivy? To take your time in beautiful, big places instead of rushing through and seeing less.

If you consider 102 mm underfoot a fat ski, go with the coomback. Easy to turn, playful ski that floats well in the deep.

a shovel is worthless without a beacon, probe, and a strong working knowledge of how to use them.

gottlieb

hash baggies for sure

i think it's hilarious how hard colin trolled so many people on this forum. what's more ridiculous? colin's posts under summitchaser or how many of you have handled it? i think the latter. and yeah, just as the hardmen aren't on CC spraying about their newest and raddest first ascent, none of them are on CC publicly lambasting anyone, either. ...this thread is already two pages long!!!

anyone had a look at the northeast couloir of dragon tail lately?

I think Jobs was definitely living outside of the Cave It's unsettling that no one seems to be talking about the death of Reverend Shuttlesworth... http://www.usatoday.com/news/nation/story/2011-10-05/fred-shuttlesworth-dies/50667896/1?csp=34news

training? what is training?

climbed this route today and definitely agree that it's a fun day out. that said, i won't be rushing back anytime soon to do it again. overall, the climbing feels more alpine than most summer climbs in the snoqualmie area, and the rock quality is about on par with thompson, if not slightly worse in sections. the best rock was probably low on p1 and on a nice knife edge near the summit. we didn't have a route description with us, but reading the beta now, i think we climbed something slightly different than what is described here after the top of the chockstone chimney. only fixed pin we encountered en route was adjacent to the hammered in nuts at the top of p1. my partner found an old 1/4 inch bolt on one of his leads right on the ridge crest. is it possible that this route is the northwest ridge as described by beckey? sidenote: we found so much booty at the base of the north face of chair... a 60m half rope, an ice screw, several 'biners, an old kletterschuhe, and an ice axe!

Went up to K Cliff yesterday after seeing the topo posted on the sign board near the RR tracks. What's the name of the line on the far left of K Cliff? It looks like a quality route-splitter twin finger/hand/lieback cracks in a right facing dihedral. Sky Valley Rock topo for that cliff is kind of confusing, and the Mountainproject description seems off. Will

Trip: Mt. Triumph - Northeast Ridge Date: 8/8/2011 Trip Report: On August 8th, Tobias and I climbed the Northeast Ridge of Triumph. This climb had everything we had hoped for, including big air, wild position and a killer bivouac on the ridge. Getting onto the ridge notch was complicated by gaping moats in the approach gully Down low the rock is loose and there is a fair amount of heather climbing. Higher on the ridge, however, there are multiple steep gendarmes with solid rock and fun climbing. The wide crack is a lot of fun, too. Approach Notes: While deproaching from the col above the middle lake, we witnessed a large rock/snow avalanche come ripping through one of the waterfall gullies to skier's left and nail the approach trail. Seemingly benign terrain, but heads up.

...am i the only one who thinks that descending the cascadian is a total cruise? this IS mountain climbing after all

What Blake said. The DC is a trade route and sees thousands of ascents every year, so naturally more people will be injured/killed on it than on the Willis Wall.

The brand is Bavarian Meats and they are based out of Seattle.

Trip: Tahoma - Emmons Glacier Date: 7/9/2011 Trip Report: July 5-6th, Todd Kilcup, Carson Guy and myself, Will Dean, skied Tahoma after climbing the Emmons Glacier. Conditions couldn’t have been better—chattery sastrugi skiing off the summit, steep styrofoam below the ‘schrund, and various flavors of corn and slush down the beautiful fall line slope of The Corridor. We left Camp Schurman at 8:20 and reached the summit at 13:15, and our timing was right on for catching the shred in optimal condition. (Less than optimal, however, were the hordes of headlamped guides and clients roping up outside of our tentless bivy at one in the morning!) We left our climbing skins at camp because the route is more direct and steeper than later in the season; booting seemed most efficient. Skiing towards Liberty Cap from the summit and then contouring right to the boot pack on the Emmons currently allows for a complete ski descent of the mountain. This route was really incredible and such a gift to climb and ski with good friends on a beautiful day! Approach Notes: snow begins ~2 miles up the trail

Heads up: it will soon be illegal to ski at closed ski areas http://apps.leg.wa.gov/documents/billdocs/2011-12/Pdf/Bills/Session%20Law%202011/5186-S.SL.pdf