cam yarder

Does anyone have any stories to share about their experiences with hallux limitus/rigidus? I'm afraid I may have the condition and want to hear how others have dealt with it. Thanks!

someone make me an offer!

Pretty fresh still. Only worn on a couple pitches. call or text 2 zero 6. 6 six 0. five 5 1 three. or send a pm here.

nice work! i climbed this route a couple years ago and also found harder than expected climbing. the west ridge was caked in rime and challenging in crampons and tools. the couloir really just felt like a part of the approach. I think you might've clipped one of my knifeblades judging by the looks of your photos of the north face of the west ridge. what a wild route!

We were skiing Kulshan when I took the photo so we didn't actually get on the routes, but the Cosley-Houston and the Polish route both look good. The bottom pitch of the C-H is covered in snow but otherwise looks fat. The crux pitch of the Polish route looks like an early season Cleo's and would be a difficult lead but I'm sure it would go. Cornices and steep snow wallowing above the ice may or may not pose problems on both routes.

April 16th

1. Royal Arches/South Face of North Dome link-up. A really neat, spectacular route. My first time getting benighted, in the Sierra no less. 2. Ski descent of Tahoma via Fuhrer Finger. The crux was threading the needle through the upper Nisqually on the ascent and descent. 3. New York Gully. Climbed in fat ice conditions. Almost all ice until the last rock corner pitch. 4. East Face of Chianti. I think about this climb all the time, especially the upper cracks. 5. CNR on Stuart

i would definitely buy some of your knifeblades, bugaboos and angles; pm me if you ever decide to sell the pieces individually.

glad to hear you survived your fall off Responsible

there are plenty of folks that frequent index that also climb hard in the alpine. they just don't blog about it or post trip reports here.

someone must've bootied the second stuck cam because it wasn't there two weeks ago.

waking up while driving 30 mph thru a ditch on the side of the cascade river road was one of the scariest things that's happened to me. i was super lucky that i didn't hit a tree or flip the car. i was trying to stay awake with all the usual tricks: rolling down the windows, blasting shitty music, stretching in the seat and BAM, i was in the ditch. after that experience, the second that i feel i have to fight to stay awake, i pull over and take a nap, no question. i think it's irresponsible to drive while exhausted after a long day. please, if you feel your eyelids closing, pull over and rest.

what's the story with the crampons?

On July 5th, Greg Bricca and I climbed the East Face of Chianti Spire. After a good round of instant espresso at the car, we began the steep grind to the flats and up to Burgundy Col. The morning was warm and sunny so dropping onto the glacier was easy, no axe or crampons needed. I really like how you can’t see this route until you are directly under it: you cross under Burgundy Spire and hike up to the saddle there and BAM, there’s the line, right in your face. Getting onto the route was complicated by a moat. There is still a lot of snow up there! I think we climbed the upper half or third of the standard 5.8 first pitch due to the snow level. Greg and I both agreed that Rebel Yell is a spectacular route. The combination of the setting, the steep, splitter directness of the line, the exposure of the headwall and the summit boulder all make for a great climb. photos:

http://translate.google.com/#auto|en|couloir click on "listen"

was up there 2 weeks ago. no need for crampons or axes and no issue getting over the dam

Why a bivy? To take your time in beautiful, big places instead of rushing through and seeing less.

bump!

they are both light wings

Ice Tools: $180 Cams: $45 each 'Biners: $5 each Crampons: $90

If you consider 102 mm underfoot a fat ski, go with the coomback. Easy to turn, playful ski that floats well in the deep.

a shovel is worthless without a beacon, probe, and a strong working knowledge of how to use them.

gottlieb

hash baggies for sure

where are you located?