Dave7

Trip: Keene Valley, NY - Chouinard's Gully Date: 3/9/2013 Trip Report: My climbing partner Chris and I decided to make one last trip out to the 'Daks to get on some ice as spring is quickly taking hold out here in NY. We left around 6am making the 3 hour drive out to Keene Valley, one of the great mountain towns in the high peaks region. We were concerned about climbing ice considering the forecast called for 50 degree temperatures!! We chose Chouinard's Gully because it is out of the sun for most of the day. CG is one of the classic routes in the 'Daks, the FA made by its namesake in 1969, during Yvon's visit to the region. It is a very aesthetic WI3 route that is done usually in 2 or 3 pitches. Chris and I opted to to do it in 2 full 60 meter pitches. Not going to lie, I was a little nervous leading this route, as it would be pushing my limits, I had only been climbing ice for 2 years, and leading for only the latter half of this season on WI2 routes. Chris provided ample motivation and didn't give me any reasons to bail. We crossed Chapel pond and reached the base of the route around 9:15 to discover we already behind 2 parties. The party ahead of us was also celebrating the last day out of the season and decided to make it costume ice climbing day out. One girl was wearing a superman shirt and cape while her partner was wearing a pink tutu. It was pretty awesome, we chatted at the base and at the first belay. Great meeting you guys! P1 ascends easy ice/ snow to a 10-15 meter vertical ice step. This pitch went smoothly and before I knew it I was at the first belay, a set of trees on climbers left. Chris followed and we ended up spending some time at the first belay while the ladies led P2 and rapped off. P2 ascends a short snow gully and reaches a section of 60 degree ice leading to another 15 meter vertical stop. Chris followed and before we knew it we were getting ready to rap off. The descent is straight forward, we made 2 rappels with 2 60m half ropes. I was STOKED to have led my first WI3 route. Definitely a good way to closeout the 2012-2013 ice season out here in NY. I know I know, not too hard for all you real alpinists out here, but I was excited to be improving. Here are some photos: Crossing Chapel Pond CG route overlay View from the top of P1 Looking up at P2, Chris ready to belay Me waiting for the ladies to rap Chris following P2 Topped out Hope you enjoy Gear Notes: I recommend 2 ropes for the rappels, twins, half ropes, or a single and a tag would all work fine. Screws and slings to your hearts content Approach Notes: Cross Chapel Pond, make sure it is frozen!

Way to salvage your outing!!! Wish i was out west right now!

Fantastic!

Hilleberg +1....I have a Jannu and it has stood up to everything I have thrown at it. Rainier being one of them.

Agreed. +1

North Conway is quite spectacular! Good to see some CCer's out east!

Glad ya'll enjoyed the pictures! Matt- shoot me a PM if you are in need of a belay out here in the Daks.

Trip: Adirondacks - Various Date: 12/20/2012 Trip Report: Who knew New York had a vast amount of great ice to climb throughout the winter months. After spending about a year living in the Georgia (where alpine climbing is merely a dream) I was happy and excited to move up north where I could get back on some ice. The Adirondacks are a special place, not because the mountains are big, covered in glaciers, nor are they written about very often. The daks are a very mellow place with a great community of climbers who treasure their own little secret climbing paradise. I moved up here in August and was lucky enough to get a couple long trad routes under my belt before winter settled in. The fall colors are sublime and totally got me psyched for ice. I figured I would share some photos from a few of my trips in the daks this winter. What a great place to climb, learn, and "train for climbing! Salmon River Falls - A lovely, relatively unknown amphitheater, for ice climbing. A lot of WI4-5 stuff here. Makes me realize how bad of an ice climber I really am. Pitchoff North - Great for early, mid, and late season ice. This particular shot is following Weeping Winds, a 3 pitch WI3+ with a great view. Leading up the second pitch of the Cascade The plus side of daks: Climbing through the occasional "tree" bands haha Looking over to cascade pass from the top of Pitchoff Right Early season mixed action Base of the cascade, ready to go up to learn that ice is usually steeper than it looks from the ground. Gear Notes: Standard ice stuff, plenty of slings for trees. Approach Notes: Anything from roadside ice crags to 5-6 mile bushwacks.

The best way to get ice performance from a fusion is to sell it and buy nomics Truth.

Wild Country Helium Carabiner recall. More here.

IMO, I would keep the Evo's. Spantiks are definitely super warm, I found a brand new pair on sale for $400 (still expensive, but worth it if you are looking for warmth and technical climbing. Sounds like these would be your go to winter boot. Have you thought about something like a Batura or Phantom Guide? Maybe just the balance you are looking for? I was just reading Dane's blog (coldthistle.blogspot.com) today about these two boots actually. Whittaker mountaineering has the Phantom Guide's on sale (http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/brands/scarpa/phantom-guide), plus an extra 20% off with promo code CHILLOUT. Brings them to about $380. Not trying to sell you on anything, just trying to give you my opinion and the offers out there. I have Spantiks and Evo's and love them both. Cheers!

Smash and grab are quickly becoming my favorite TR to read.

that is badass

Well done. Thanks for the report!! Stoke is high!

I can't wait to climb in the valley!

Nicely done! What route was it? Thanks for taking the time to rebolt it!

I hope everything works out well for him. It is awesome how the climbing community tends to come together to help someone in need. Hope he has a speedy and full recovery.

Nice pictures. The first couple remind me of something you would see in some sort of old school syfy thriller. Sweet shots!!! I look forward to the timelapse!

http://www.climbing.com/news/lightning-fast-new-route-in-alaska/ well done guys, I look forward to the write up.

well done! great TR, thanks for the share! I enjoyed the bear tangent haha.

Likewise! I originally started climbing in WA but have recently moved to NY, if you are ever looking to get after some climbs let me know! Cheers!

Go with Cilogear, you won't be disappointed.

+1

Trip: Chapel Pond, Keene Valley, NY - Regular Route Date: 10/2/2012 Trip Report: This summer has been quite the wash for as far as climbing goes. Moving, a month long training exercise, and friends and family obligations have limited my time in the outdoors, much to my chagrin. A perk of being in the Army is being able to travel and move to different parts of the country (can be bad at times) and explore the outdoors. Yesterday offered an opportunity to get out, climb a longer route, and enjoy the fall foliage of the high peaks region of the Adirondacks. My new-founded climbing partner Chris and I set out leisurely at 7:30 am to make the three hour drive from Watertown, NY to Keene Valley, NY right outside of Lake Placid. Our destination was Chapel Pond Slab a nice 800' piece of granite overlooking the valley and a nice sized pond. We decided on climbing regular route a 6 (or 8 pitch depending on the guidebook) pitch 5.5 which would boost our confidence as he hasn't climbed in over a year and I haven't climbed anything in a couple months. I have plateaued leading 5.6 trad and need to start training and gaining more experience to break into leading harder. Frankly, we were worried that the climb would be wet, a whole weekend of rain and half a day of decent weather had us concerned that we would only have a nice car trip. Luckily, upon arrival the route was mostly dry. A most excellent adventure ensued. The climbing was definitely 5 star (as the guidebook calls it) for such a low grade. The clean rock and sections of fantastic climbing had the stoke high. The pictures don't do it justice. The foliage and climbing were fantastic, can't think of a better way to get introduced into the Adirondacks. Gear Notes: Normal trad rock, doubles in metolius number 1, number 2, and bd number 1 would be helpful. Adirondack Rock is the guidebook to reference. Approach Notes: 1 minute approach from Rte 73

Conditions vary from year to year, with that said, usually the best weather/conditions windows occur late June - Aug.