Dave7

Thanks for the article links, some good reads! I think the issue i am having is dealing with the off-width finger cracks. Definitely heading back to the rock soon to try some new techniques. My current "project" is this 5.9 route at Mt. Yonah Georgia entitled "Army Route 9" (or 8, cant remember). The guide book rates it 5.9 or A1. From other climbers down here in the south, they claim that alot of the ratings in the book are "sandbagged" but that is a whole other topic. I am having fun just trying to get better and learn different techniques.

Hello all, Need some advice on crack climbing techniques. I am pushing my limits trying to get better and doing harder routes, as I have progressed most of my time has been spent on slabs doing a lot of face climbing. My current project (5.9...i know not that difficult but hey, i am trying to get better) involves a short section of finger cracks on a slightly overhanging rock face. I have top roped it a few times and can't seem to unlock the moves/sequence for this section. I understand the basics of hand jams and foot jams, does anyone have any resources, online reading, or advice for finger jams? Thanks in advance! Cheers! -Dave And yes i would love to attend the crack climbing clinic that is coming up in Oregon...however I am on the opposite side of the country...Yikes.

thanks for sharing that blog post!

Thanks for sharing some amazing photos!!!!!

I am a fan of Hilleberg tents. I have a Jannu, it weighs about a pound more then my Assault 2, but completely worth IMO for a bomber double wall tent. Easy to pitch, i haven't had any condensation problems, and it vents really well. The only downside is the price. (If you talk to the US HQ in Redmond, WA sometimes they have floor models on sale).

As a veteran of OEF, I can say the mountains have a 'healing' effect. It makes me proud to watch these vets climb and not treat there injuries as a hinderance but better yet a challenge, to face and overcome. It also makes me proud to be part of a climbing community that is willing to helping out other people experience climbing.

Im pretty sure i am stuck in purgatory...aka Georgia...ugh!!!!!! Jealous.

the devil's tower looks fun! wish i was still in WA!!!!

Nice pictures!! Looks pretty sweet with fresh snow

Great Job!!!!!!!

hmmmmmmmmmm

No it wasn't, the route was still pretty well wanded but the trail was kicked back in by the groups ahead of us, and a little bit by us.

Trip: Mt. Rainier - DC Date: 9/20/2011 Trip Report: A buddy of mine have been planning a trip to Rainier since about July, after having to turn around in June I was excited to get back up the mountain. We had lined up a trip to WA for the last two weeks in September. After arriving in SEATAC on the 17th, we spent the day getting supplies and getting ready for a few days on the mountain. The weather looked OK, on the 18th we headed up. It was windy and rainy, there were a few guided groups coming down saying that the weather was horrendous up high. The weather forecast looked like it was going to clear up on the 19 and 20...we hoped. At around 8500 feet my buddy wasn't feeling so hot and the winds were pretty strong. We decided to set up our tent for the evening and try to wait out the storm and get some food and water in my buddy. The winds howled all night and neither of us got any sleep. Around 9 am on the 19 the winds weather was starting to clear so we decided to go up to muir. Bluebird skies...no winds..things were looking up. We spent the day on practicing glacier skills, crevasse rescue, and prepping for our summit attempt. We ate dinner and went to sleep around 600 to rest up. We awoke at 200am and set off in beautiful weather towards the top. After crossing cathedral gap we noticed only one other party on the DC...a quiet day on the route. We ended up catching up to this group on the Emmons shoulder, good to meet you guys! The DC was in decent shape, there were some fixed lines in place, no ladders, the crevasses could easily be stepped over or end run depending on what your comfortable with IMO. Reached the summit at 900am, great weather, blue skies, almost no wind...a great day on the mountain. Gear Notes: Standard glacier stuff Approach Notes: Skyline trail

Thanks Will for the great info, I think I am going to be headed to the Tennessee wall or Tallulah gorge this week.

dropped you an email

email sent

should have reiterated that point again, thanks for the reminder DPS

Depends on personal preference and what kind of route you are traveling on. Depending on the route and season on rainier will help you determine the proper gear. For 4 people on the DC route midsummer, i would probably bring 3 pickets. Pulleys will be excess weight, i would leave them at home, with multiple people hauling on a z pulley you can easily overcome the friction by just using biners. With all the gear you listed you will have no problem building a bomber anchor and hauling out someone if you needed to. Your distribution plan is pretty solid. As long as all the gear isn't with one person you'll be just fine.

I am also beginning out leading sport and trad...i found this book and it has helped me immensely. I actually took a sport leading class at a climbing gym (the instructors teach you how to fall and then make you fall a few times) which helped me starting off. Then practiced a bunch. Once i felt comfortable, I took a trad leading course in leavenworth which was awesome!! (s/o to Northwest Mountain School) I began the day on the ground learning proper gear placement, anchor building, and multipitch transitions, climbed castle rock, a few other routes, and by the end of the day the instructor had me leading easy 5.5 5.6 routes!

yes, I realize this now, I remember staring at Bonanza last spring. I blame my excitement to get back to the PNW. Sorry for the confusion.

Looking for one or two people interested in climbing rainier via Emmons or DC walkup. PM or email me at leydetd@gmail.com

http://www.smileysproject.com/Committed__Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America/Videos.html pretty interesting project. A couple decided to climb all 50 North American Classics. Some pretty sweet videos