manninjo

My partner dropped one of our screws down the face on Sunday October 4th and I think/hope your group of four was able to snag it on your way up the face. Sorry we did not get a chance to connect after climbing the route. We left a crude note using knife and cardboard on what I believe was one of your cars, phone number may or may not have been legible. I'd love to get the screw back and would love to buy your group some beer for the trouble. Feel free to send me a pm for my phone number or email me at manninjo at gmail . com. Thank you!

Great addition of new routes on the far side of gunshow, lots of work went into the area for sure, thanks Sam! There's a bit of dirt and some rock you need to be a little careful with, but the climbing movement is fun and belay spots are comfortable. Anyone looking for some climbs longer than one pitch at exit 38 would enjoy a visit to the area.

That is some serious dedication to rock climbing, awesome that worked out with a last minute flight across the country. Can't beat the west coast for climbing!

In case anyone was planning on heading up there soon: "Date: August 19, 2015 Contact: Fire Information , 360-854-7361 Marblemount, WA – Goodell Fire burned down to and crossed State Route 20 this afternoon causing a rockslide. The Department of Transportation has closed the highway while firefighters and helicopters work to slow the fire’s spread, remove the debris and make the popular scenic route safe for travelers again. The North Cascades Visitor Center, the Upper and Lower Goodell group camps, and Newhalem Creek Campground are closed due to the fire and concern for visitor safety. State Route 20, the North Cascades Scenic Byway, is closed from Newhalem to Rainy Pass until further notice. Evacuations are in place for the town Diablo, Gorge Campground, North Cascades Environmental Learning Center, and Ross Lake Resort. The Goodell Fire has been backing down the ridge towards Newhalem: firefighters have an engine, a water tank and water lines in place at the southern toe of the slope to protect the town and Seattle City Light’s power infrastructure. Today’s weather and winds pushed the fire both east and west and downslope to the highway. The Goodell Fire was detected on August 10 and was estimated approximately eighty acres yesterday." http://www.nps.gov/noca/learn/news/goodell-fire-state-route-20-closure-and-evacuation.htm

Really not a lot of snow up there, thanks for the photos! That scree in the south chute is definitely some fun stuff. I think driving across the narrows bridge to Tacoma is a tad quicker if you are in the Seattle area, for people who don't want to pay for or miss the Kingston ferry.

Nice climb! I love how 50 meters is not a long pitch on this route.

Great report on what was a solid climb. Thanks for kicking steps most of the way up the ridge! Regarding the serac collapse, that was certainly one of the scariest/luckiest moments I've experienced in the mountains and not one I'd like to repeat. Getting up close and personal with the debris cloud was a little too close for comfort. With the unstable house sized arch gone, the portion of the route below the bergschrund looks much more stable now. Otherwise the route is in excellent shape. Good time to get after it!

Thanks, I sent you a pm. Looking forward to being down there next week. Weather in Wanaka looks nice!

Was up in the alpental area this afternoon. Lines on the NE side of the valley seemed more in than on the SW side, some stuff including practice gulley are already covered in snow. Alpental Falls and lines in that area looked thin. Another day or two of freezing temps would likely help fatten the ice up. A fair amount of stuff will certainly be climbable on new year's day.

I'm free and looking to climb anytime this week, sent you a pm.

Sent you a pm about Rainier this week; looks like conditions are improving Monday forward.

I'm interested, sent you a pm to discuss feasibility.

Have about a month left before a trip to NZ and we're still trying to track down some guidebooks or additional beta than is readily available online for Aoraki/Mt. Cook, the Darrans, and general cragging. Our plans are definitely flexible and will be tailored based on weather and logistics. If anyone is willing to loan/rent any south island NZ guidebooks during the month of January, that would be totally rad and much appreciated. Libraries don't seem to be much help at this point and we'd love to get some more ideas together before departing.

Looking to scope out some moderate ice/mixed hopefully in the Stuart range tomorrow, Monday November 17th or Tuesday the 18th. Coming from Seattle, can meet in Leavenworth or carpool from the west side. Reachable via email, manninjo at gmail.com. Happy to discuss various objectives over the phone. Cheers!

Gosh, gear quality at Vantage, that's a whole other can of worms... rock quality at Index, there should be no question. It's surprising to hear cam hooks have failed on people there. I'm more of a free climber and aid is aid, but given the choice between pulling on plastic for another consecutive day or being outside on a sunny day after a rain storm, I'd rather ascend some cracks that might be too wet to jam but take cams and nuts and maybe cam hooks just fine. Really, cam hooks do seem like an efficiency/convenience thing, it'd be hard to find a section of rock that a stopper or slider nut wouldn't work in as well. Doesn't seem like there is too strong of an anti-cam hook sentiment, maybe just need to be cognizant of potential damage. I was also thinking about getting some nailing practice in at the crag. Many 5.11 cracks seem to be about #3/4 lost arrow size? kidding!

While doing some aiding at Index last month, someone mentioned they did not use cam hooks at Index because the rock is not a true granite, rather a granodiorite (sic?), and therefore using cam hooks could potentially alter the free climbs (like City Park, Town Crier, etc). Cam hooks seem especially solid and useful at Index for clean aid. Is using cam hooks at Index something to be concerned about?

Just your average climbing trip... multiple first ascents on 1000m big walls featuring leave-no-trace high standard free climbing. Really amazing stuff. Nico Favresse's blog has more details.

Looking to lead 9s and 10s, follow higher. I have a number of ideas but open to any cliffs. If there are any perverse aid climbers out there, would also be into doing something on the UTW. Send me a gmail email at manninjo @, or pm here, thanks!

Thanks, I appreciate the input!

I got invited to join a core enchantments permit party with some non-climbing friends. I've never been up there before, but I'm hoping to sneak off for at least one summit (other than Little Annapurna which I think I can convince the group to walk up). Looking at Beckey and some routes 5.4 and under, you have Mount Temple, listed at 5.3 - climb to a notch west of the summit on the Nada Creek side, then climb a bit of crack, slab, and chimney to the summit. Anyone have experience or insight on this route? Another option is the High Priest, with the West Face going at 'maximum class 4 on good rock.' I found an old post where someone joked about it being much harder than 4th class. Any info on that? Enchantment Peak looks like straightforward 4th class and pretty close to the main trail system. Other than those three, I didn't see much else I'd personally feel good doing in approach shoes - ymmv of course. Am I missing any cool spires, blocks, or summits that would be as easy as/easier than the South Arete of SEWS or the S Face of the Tooth and accessible over a long morning from the core permit zone? On a side note, how cool looking is the enchainment starting from the West Ridge of Prusik along Temple Ridge and down the across the Black Pyramid/Eagleheads?? Bring lots of water? Thanks for any input!

Found a partner, thank you!

Would be psyched to get on the following or similar this weekend: East Ridge Forbidden, car to car (previous summit via W. Ridge/East Ledges descent, also c2c) Dreamer would be a sweet objective in Darrington. Skeena 26 from a recent trip report looked fun as well. Kautz Glacier, ideally carryover and descend DC with 1 night on mountain (previous summits via Emmons and DC). Cragging at Index Stoked to lead or share leads on any of the above. Have reliable transportation from Seattle and requisite experience/gear. Leading 5.10- in the mountains this season and have been managing to get out most every week. If you are looking for a partner this weekend, I can be reached here or on gmail by emailing manninjo@. Cheers, Joe

Forecast looks good for aiding this weekend! Looking to get the aid systems more dialed, prefer partner over going solo. Happy to trade belays. Definitely up for some free climbing if the rains hold off. Shoot me an email, it's the same as my username at gmail.com.

Not sure if anything is 'in' up there but if anyone is game to scope out potential alpental parking lot area ice, i'd like to head out saturday. it has been and continues to be quite cold at the pass. i'm happy to drive or rideshare from downtown seattle area or along the i-90 corridor. have just a couple screws and mostly alpine ice experience. down for easy leads or tr. pm or email me at manninjo at gmail.com if interested. thanks!

fyi - "Note: Backpackers with an appropriate wilderness permit can receive a Half Dome permit when they pick up their wilderness permit with no additional reservation required. Rock climbers who reach the top of Half Dome without entering the subdome area can descend on the Half Dome Trail without a permit." http://www.ohranger.com/blog/10/03/permits-get-your-permits-half-dome-cable-permits-available-monday-may-and-june