manninjo

Hot off the press: http://www.seattletimes.com/life/outdoors/hoping-to-camp-at-the-enchantments-it-just-got-harder/ Forest Service: http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev3_053607 "The permit season, formerly June 15-Oct. 15, will now be May 15-Oct. 31."

What do you mean by more persistent blocking, is that longer or more frequent periods of high pressure, as we saw last winter?

Thanks for all the responses and photos! Yes, it seems like conditions have come in when a cold front follows a moisture system. My concern is with higher average temperatures, we won't have as much ice forming, at least at lower elevations in washington and the gorge. But that is good to know about 2003/4 in the fraser valley. I hadn't really considered strobach before, looks like some great lines there. If I could combine cragging at tieton with some access maintenance, that would be a solid weekend. I'm all for the alpine but limited approaches are definitely nice, especially on short winter days. Here's hoping for some colder weather in the near future!

http://www.climate.washington.edu/outlook.html I've been climbing waterfall ice in Washington the last two or three seasons. It seems like we get a solid week or two here and there at alpental and leavenworth and in the desert. For those that have been doing this a little longer, what's your take on our chances of having a viable season this winter, given the strong el nino forecast? Hope for easy alpine access again because we won't have snow at the heliotrope or stuart lake trailheads? Plan for a week in the rockies, hyalite or canmore? Looking forward to climbing this winter but I'd love some quick hits at the more roadside spots.

My partner dropped one of our screws down the face on Sunday October 4th and I think/hope your group of four was able to snag it on your way up the face. Sorry we did not get a chance to connect after climbing the route. We left a crude note using knife and cardboard on what I believe was one of your cars, phone number may or may not have been legible. I'd love to get the screw back and would love to buy your group some beer for the trouble. Feel free to send me a pm for my phone number or email me at manninjo at gmail . com. Thank you!

Great addition of new routes on the far side of gunshow, lots of work went into the area for sure, thanks Sam! There's a bit of dirt and some rock you need to be a little careful with, but the climbing movement is fun and belay spots are comfortable. Anyone looking for some climbs longer than one pitch at exit 38 would enjoy a visit to the area.

That is some serious dedication to rock climbing, awesome that worked out with a last minute flight across the country. Can't beat the west coast for climbing!

In case anyone was planning on heading up there soon: "Date: August 19, 2015 Contact: Fire Information , 360-854-7361 Marblemount, WA – Goodell Fire burned down to and crossed State Route 20 this afternoon causing a rockslide. The Department of Transportation has closed the highway while firefighters and helicopters work to slow the fire’s spread, remove the debris and make the popular scenic route safe for travelers again. The North Cascades Visitor Center, the Upper and Lower Goodell group camps, and Newhalem Creek Campground are closed due to the fire and concern for visitor safety. State Route 20, the North Cascades Scenic Byway, is closed from Newhalem to Rainy Pass until further notice. Evacuations are in place for the town Diablo, Gorge Campground, North Cascades Environmental Learning Center, and Ross Lake Resort. The Goodell Fire has been backing down the ridge towards Newhalem: firefighters have an engine, a water tank and water lines in place at the southern toe of the slope to protect the town and Seattle City Light’s power infrastructure. Today’s weather and winds pushed the fire both east and west and downslope to the highway. The Goodell Fire was detected on August 10 and was estimated approximately eighty acres yesterday." http://www.nps.gov/noca/learn/news/goodell-fire-state-route-20-closure-and-evacuation.htm

Really not a lot of snow up there, thanks for the photos! That scree in the south chute is definitely some fun stuff. I think driving across the narrows bridge to Tacoma is a tad quicker if you are in the Seattle area, for people who don't want to pay for or miss the Kingston ferry.

Nice climb! I love how 50 meters is not a long pitch on this route.

Great report on what was a solid climb. Thanks for kicking steps most of the way up the ridge! Regarding the serac collapse, that was certainly one of the scariest/luckiest moments I've experienced in the mountains and not one I'd like to repeat. Getting up close and personal with the debris cloud was a little too close for comfort. With the unstable house sized arch gone, the portion of the route below the bergschrund looks much more stable now. Otherwise the route is in excellent shape. Good time to get after it!

Thanks, I sent you a pm. Looking forward to being down there next week. Weather in Wanaka looks nice!

Was up in the alpental area this afternoon. Lines on the NE side of the valley seemed more in than on the SW side, some stuff including practice gulley are already covered in snow. Alpental Falls and lines in that area looked thin. Another day or two of freezing temps would likely help fatten the ice up. A fair amount of stuff will certainly be climbable on new year's day.

I'm free and looking to climb anytime this week, sent you a pm.

Sent you a pm about Rainier this week; looks like conditions are improving Monday forward.

I'm interested, sent you a pm to discuss feasibility.

Have about a month left before a trip to NZ and we're still trying to track down some guidebooks or additional beta than is readily available online for Aoraki/Mt. Cook, the Darrans, and general cragging. Our plans are definitely flexible and will be tailored based on weather and logistics. If anyone is willing to loan/rent any south island NZ guidebooks during the month of January, that would be totally rad and much appreciated. Libraries don't seem to be much help at this point and we'd love to get some more ideas together before departing.

Looking to scope out some moderate ice/mixed hopefully in the Stuart range tomorrow, Monday November 17th or Tuesday the 18th. Coming from Seattle, can meet in Leavenworth or carpool from the west side. Reachable via email, manninjo at gmail.com. Happy to discuss various objectives over the phone. Cheers!

Gosh, gear quality at Vantage, that's a whole other can of worms... rock quality at Index, there should be no question. It's surprising to hear cam hooks have failed on people there. I'm more of a free climber and aid is aid, but given the choice between pulling on plastic for another consecutive day or being outside on a sunny day after a rain storm, I'd rather ascend some cracks that might be too wet to jam but take cams and nuts and maybe cam hooks just fine. Really, cam hooks do seem like an efficiency/convenience thing, it'd be hard to find a section of rock that a stopper or slider nut wouldn't work in as well. Doesn't seem like there is too strong of an anti-cam hook sentiment, maybe just need to be cognizant of potential damage. I was also thinking about getting some nailing practice in at the crag. Many 5.11 cracks seem to be about #3/4 lost arrow size? kidding!

While doing some aiding at Index last month, someone mentioned they did not use cam hooks at Index because the rock is not a true granite, rather a granodiorite (sic?), and therefore using cam hooks could potentially alter the free climbs (like City Park, Town Crier, etc). Cam hooks seem especially solid and useful at Index for clean aid. Is using cam hooks at Index something to be concerned about?

Just your average climbing trip... multiple first ascents on 1000m big walls featuring leave-no-trace high standard free climbing. Really amazing stuff. Nico Favresse's blog has more details.

Still looking for deal on a haul bag if possible, thanks!

Sent you an email about the yates aiders

I had some good luck selling rock shoes on mntproject recently, might list them there as well if you haven't already.

Looking to lead 9s and 10s, follow higher. I have a number of ideas but open to any cliffs. If there are any perverse aid climbers out there, would also be into doing something on the UTW. Send me a gmail email at manninjo @, or pm here, thanks!