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Frankazoid

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Everything posted by Frankazoid

  1. Just wondering where my fellow WA skiers are getting there turns in... I have been working in great falls MT for a couple months, and on my one day off a week I am able to drive to Logan Pass at Glacier NP and get some good lines. Lots of snow at Logan Pass. Come join me on Sundays if you can! I'll try to remember to put a TR together for this coming sunday's trip. Im going to ski what I beleive to be Mt. Clements.
  2. I think going climbing is important for people who like climbing.
  3. the 11c flared crack thats east of the other routes might need some scrubbin inside the crack. It looks light a fun tr. too bad its even closer to the freeway than the other routes. Behind funforest is another lone block with a few routes, including a short chimney thing and a hard, but good looking flared finger crack/seam. The bolted route that starts under a mini roof /bulge is also really fun- on the main block. I think that route gets climbed more than anything else there. On that route you can go straight up through the bolts to make it harder, or start traversing up and left with some small gear after you pull the bulge- finishing on far left anchors. Fun forest is one of my favorite spots for some chill- low commitment climbing. Have fun!
  4. Things should be in good shape... just give it a few days of sun before attempting. Fee demo wall now becomes dry after 2 days of sunny weather (and it is north facing).
  5. Very accurate to say its a bit like index. The climbs and the grades. The stone is some of the best in the area, and different than most of 38. I climbed Free Radical, and thought it was one of the best aretes iv'e been on in a while. If you have the time, I suggest you take Rad up on his offer. Rad, do you have a topo in the works?
  6. Well said! A friend of mine buy's a 9.2 once a year, but climbs 4 days a week- working hard routes and taking lots of whips. If your not putting your rope through hell 208 days a year, then buy a skinny and enjoy the weightlessness and easy clipping for quite some time.
  7. Well there ya have it.
  8. My 9.8 has taken tons of abuse. I put my ropes through a lot! I dont think you need a monster 10. something... I lead with it, lower on it, rap with it, jug it, explore through dirtyness with it (don't take that one the wrong way... And it's still solid. For a climbing only rope, my next buy will be a petzl 9.2. I have lead a few pitches with my friends 9.2 and love it. It's hard to tell it's even there. So- if you want something that can take some abuse i would check out the 9.8's out there.
  9. Of course i'm in! Lets do it! Ben, can you make it fri, sat or sun? I have a chainsaw (which) can be brought out later if needed), handsaws, loppers, hand pruners... A new trail would be absolutley Scrumtrelescent! Lets find that damn thing! Eric, you still hyped? -Frank
  10. dude!! Thats gnarly! Well, if it was solid chunks, then the person probably should have been able to control it. Seeing as it was more on the juicy side it could have been unexpected for the person. I'd bet they took a shit before roping up too... Sounds like they were having a bad day too. Anyhow, that's how shit goes sometimes eh? Would of been cool if they fixed the rope, and returned with multiple gallons of water do dilute it. I dont blame em for having to squirt there, but at least make an effort to clean it up!
  11. Sweet! That flake doesn't look like it belongs in eastern wa, eh? I was climbing at deep creek (spokane) that weekend. original plan was to go to Marcus and China Bend, but the locals were saying it was super wet. Have yet to make it to Banks!
  12. I was out there almost 2 years ago. Let me get the story straight though- I never did make it there. I feel confident that I would be able to make it next time though. I would be interested in going out there sometime. I'll catch ya on whatever, maybe climb the 11's myself. Iv'e got a nightmare wrist that is acting up again so... I'm available this coming thurs-sun. PM me if your interested. Are you good with a compass? Once you know how to get there, it won't tkae as long for future trips. it's a relitivly short distance.
  13. park where the book says at 14. something miles, but then hike up the clear cut on the opposite side of the road (right side if driving in) and you can see across the river and get a view of the monster cave. That will be neccassary to get your barings, most definetly. now, either draw a straight line and go for it (which is what I would reccomend) or try to navigate it some other way. It is a serious mission- don't give up! There is NO trail and the creeks back there change the landscape often. I have had two failed attempts because I didnt draw a straight line. I would reccomend bringing water shoes, or surfing booties for the river crossing. If the river is too deep you may have to go the long way around further down the road and cross the bridge, park, traverse back in and up. There is still an OLD rope hanging down from the lip of the cave and that thing is most definetly garbagio. actually now that I think about it- I think you drive to the next clearcut past where you would normaly park and hike up that clearcut to get a view... (only 10 secs drive and 5 min walk up the hill)
  14. additional supplement to my last post... http://www.rollglobal.org/2010/03/spiritmountain/
  15. Ya, Ao Nang is kinda touristy and lame IMHO... Lame only because its so damn tourist packed. Ao Nang really is just a hub to go to other places like all the islands and tonsai/railay. If you can climb 6c-7c I would reccomend hanging out in chong plee for a couple days at spirit mtn. Ask the shops at Tonsai about it, or look it up on on rockclimbing.com or mountainproject.com for general directions. If you run into my friend Mike Weitzman who lives in chong plee, you might get to bolt some new routes with him if interested. Theres also another wall near spirit mtn called bon voyage wall. We put a few routes up there too. Basicly I would rent a shack at spirit mtn, eat in the village, climb, eat in the village, climb, sleep, repeat. Its off the beaten path so you will get a localized experience if you want one. Maybe try and talk some Tonsai people into coming out too... all in all, when you leave tonsai on the boat the crag is only 25 mins away. Drive around the farm lands and look at the dozens of unclimbed karsts with full on arches on your rest days... Rent a motorbike in Ao Nang. Ohhh I can't wait to go back!
  16. When you get to Thailand make sure to step away from tonsai for a couple days and visit spirit mountain only 15 minutes inland from Ao Nang. New routes. High quality stone that rivals tonsai and is not polished. Ask about the place when you get there. Spirit mountain is in the village of Chong Plee just up the road from Ao Nang. Make the land owners happy and rent a bungalow that they built for the climbers. quality toilet rooms, with showers too. cheap, and localized. get away from the madness of tonsai, and all the damn euros!
  17. Michelle, here is an assortment of fruit boot photos. I have always refered to roller blades as fruit boots, and was unaware of the ice climbing version until now... http://www.keywordpicture.com/keyword/fruit%20boots/
  18. So limestone in the gallations as well as gneiss? Nice! I am definetly interested in checking out bozeman pass. I have heard of limestone around helena, but there is a lot of driving one could do...... I'll take yall's advice and ask at the shop.
  19. Thanks David. I'll give that a shot!
  20. Heading to Montana soon and i'm trying to find beta on sport crags... i'm having trouble finding out anything besides whats on mountainproject.com. The state is huge and has mountains and hills- theres gotta be more sport crags. What gives? I heard of limestone hills south of Townsend, MT. Know anything about Townsend area limestone? Also, I will be in the Great Falls area for most of my stay.
  21. global warming baby! I would expect similar weather patterns in years to come.
  22. Thanks Josh. Ben must be having a blast up there... I would imagine he might often have the place to himself.
  23. Nice, thanks for the link C'climb.
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