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Everything posted by summitchaserCJB
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Because it is easy to grab some obscure photo off the internet. Climbing an obscure peak? Now thats the hard part.
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[TR] Endless Beauty on Stetattle Ridge
summitchaserCJB replied to Josh Lewis's topic in North Cascades
Nice one Josh. -
Here's a rule. It has to be your photo.
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[TR] Index LTW - Jap Gardens/10% MV, Iron Horse
summitchaserCJB replied to Jeff_T's topic in North Cascades
The lineup for people ready to free p1 of City Park was at least 8 people long this weekend. Damn aiders. You mean the 5.10 bolt ladder? What were they doing, linking that with Godzilla? -
Right on.
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Hey I know Garrett. Those aren't yours are they Oly?
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Slight change in wording, big change in meaning. In my experience, there are some things I never use that I always bring. And I guess I should add that there are some things that you bring, use, but don't bring again. But nothing in particular comes to mind.
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[TR] Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse 6/1/2009
summitchaserCJB replied to needtoclimb's topic in Alpine Lakes
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Word.
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Yes- This matches my "action suit."
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I watched guys paraglide near there once.
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Good point tele. I care less about bolt anchors than I do bolts on route. But your right none-the-less. That is a highly traveled intersection of two routes that see a lot of traffic.
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Angel is a multi-pitch route. Most people rap after the first pitch- which is what you were referring to.
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I frown on "upgrading" classics. Especially trad classics.
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Looks like E. Wilmans Spire. The rock is not too bad on the spire but the approach gully is pretty loose. Recomend early season so there's snow in the gully. Thanks
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[TR] Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse 6/1/2009
summitchaserCJB replied to needtoclimb's topic in Alpine Lakes
i've done that - 5.9ish - skerry belay at top as there's essentially no gear to belay from - made my partners improptu decision to prusik the pitch shortly after falling repeatedly at the starting crux exciting! Oh wow. Sounds like an epic waiting to happen. I remember that no-gear belay. I think I cleaned a crack and smashed a couple small aliens in somehow. -
And I'm sure they have a standardized way to determine width (at least you'd think they would). You know, at a given temperature under standard conditions. Ya, it'll change in the field, but they have to tell you something. If there were just 9, 10, 11mm ropes that would significantly limit the number of available ropes. I don't think they should stop manufacturing 9.1 ropes just because it might not always, 100% of the time be 9.1mm exactly. I think asking that might be a little anal retentive.
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Sounds like your trying to over-intellectualize this to me. I guess you could compare similar diameters on gms/m. That really is a more realistic comparison, given that people want different diameter ropes for different applications. If you want the lightest rope, google around or ask someone and they'll let you know and you can buy it. For alpine routes I like my 9.1 Joker. As far as the theoretical conversation goes, I think the current standard is fine.
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hmm. I was up there a couple months ago doing Damnation Crack and didn't notice anything. Just the Angel anchors about 10 feet from Jello. Might it need chopping? That step-across is totally protectable.
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[TR] Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse 6/1/2009
summitchaserCJB replied to needtoclimb's topic in Alpine Lakes
I loved this climb when I did it. Ya it isn't classic rock climbing but it has a sweet alpine vibe. -
What peak is that in the picture 31st from the top? It is the spire-ish peak. Looks like some marginal rock but a sweet summit to bag.
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But do remember what happened to McCandless in the end.
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$43/day budget is doable, but perhaps unenjoyable allin, in this day in age. Including transport it'll be mostly crappy transport, lodging and not much booze. The worlds changed and places aren't nearly as cheap as they were. And that was before the $ went down the shitter. STILL WORTH IT! GO! GO NOW! i recently spent two months in southern thailand on $7 a day. i ate plenty, climbed every day and had a motorcycle for my whole trip. i had money to pay boatmen to drop me off at random limestone karsts so i could dws... i networked my ass off the first 2 weeks so i ended up living with locals for free, while helping around the house. being able to speak some thai helped out immensly- i had more dinner offers than i knew what to do with! go. After whipping out the calculator, I think the OP was including his airline ticket in his total amount. I don't think you were, unless you got down to Asia for about 100$ and lived on like 4 dollars a day. But really I am just insanely jealous. I love SE Asia.
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Here is my opinion of McCandless. 1. He was smart (prestigious private school and planned on law school) 2. He was unexperienced in the outdoors. 3. He was blindly idealistic and not very street smart. Just like trained athletes can flounder in the outdoors' physical rigors, smart people can fail in the practical tests of the outdoors. One does not necessarily transfer to the other. The mountains are just as much about mental fortitude as they are about physical fortitude. If you lack in either category you are going to suffer or just straight up fail.
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Well when people think of you, at least they won't think you are withholding anything. Honesty is the best policy. I know I've made my share of mistakes, climbing and beyond. Good on you Josh. Stay safe and keep climbing!
