summitchaserCJB

ya- I say cut 'n run.

beal jokers do everything for me. Don't know if they still make them but I think they do.

4 #2's?????? are you at the creek?? May want to swap out the 4 #2s with 4 #.75s so you can aid up the last bit! Not sure there are 4 placements for a #2 on that entire pitch. Maybe if you like tipped out or fixed cams and you place them all in a row. ya actually he has a point. I remember my partner having two twos and the second placement was tipped out. The threes fit better up high.

Thanks friend.

wait, bstach, did you just prove Jay's point?

The loss of the headlamp.

It got really hot.

Trip: Index - Davis Holland Route, Free Range Chinook, Eso No Se Date: 8/19/2010 Trip Report: Mark and I did the Davis Holland Route day before yesterday. Overall it's a great route and rather sustained. The second pitch was pretty head's-up 10a. I fell once randomly on the 10c crux but otherwise had no serious issues. You can rap from the top of the third pitch with a 60 meter. After baking in the sun we headed to Shady Lane where Mark basically made it up Free Range Chinook. I then took a crack at Eso No Se Hace. I took a couple hangs but made it up the route. A pretty legit 5.11a. A couple days before this I redpointed thin fingers and onsighted Strength through Bowling, both 5.11a routes. I also jumped on Knob Job for the pinkpoint. hmm...other than that just made it up the standard Index routes. Mark led the first pitch of thin fingers clean! Oh and also made it most the way up a 5.10d deep water solo called Annie's Climax at Muscle Beach in Leavenworth. A 40 foot fall from the crux was enough to satiate me. That's all for now. [img:left]http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_67D5eDoFD0U/TG4RurNUAbI/AAAAAAAAAM4/IA64Lvoq-Io/s1600/IMG_5638_edited-1.jpg[/img]

Ya that post was stupid. My bad.

Are you stalking me?

Just to weigh in- I'd bring one or the other.

Fair enough.

I can lead 5.11a-redpoint, sometimes. As for everything else- They're on to me!

don't do it. That is all.

I think I'll always be a noob at heart. You get too comfortable and you start making mistakes. I don't know many noobs that can lead 5.10d-5.11a trad.

so this begs the question- Is it better to be a "hardman" and go ultralight and cry like a baby when the s*** hits the fan or bring more gear, risking looking like a noob who is paranoid about everything going wrong?

Looked pretty snowy week before last. But I guess it all depends on your preference.

shut up. OP, if you want to climb alpine ice, that is probably not the tool for you. It won't plunge very well and consensus seems to be that it swings weird. Like Farrgo says it's meant as a mixed climbing tool. Search for the recent "first tool suggestions" thread that had a lot of good advice. asshole. Who died and made you an authority.

What about the reactors? I don't know all that much about ice climbing but I like them.

sounds like an alpine trip to me.

damn I love that route.

Ya it really is amazing.

No way it's hot, buggy and the climbs are mank at nevermind, the last time I was there every hold had a rattle snake sleep'n on it and ticks under every bush!!!!

How else do you ride up to Lake Serene? Or do you use hip jargon on a regular basis?> Oh I get it, you rode the Mrs. My fault.